lowbrow

Must date back to the 1990's when if memory serves me correctly there was an ACU schoolboy class capacity limit of 100cc.

Aussiechris, your prayers have been answered see this

It will come off, it's just a tight fit. I set my vice jaws so the spindle would just pass through the gap and with the nut on the end of the spindle tapped the spindle down through the snail cam using a soft mallet.

I'm sorry to say that Brian and Ian, the two main pillars of the Club are taking a break from trials, but they and their band of helpers may well be back with more enthusiasm next year.

Thanks Borus, never heard of organic coolant before. Is it okay to top up with other makes of coolant?

Bullseye!

Hi Sina, you or your mechanic may find Jim Snell's excellent videos helpful. Look here http://www.trialspar...om/youtube.html and scroll down for the technical video's. He runs through a complete motor strip down and explains how to set up the selector adjustment.

Well done Ross and well done to the West of England Club too. It was a pleasure to watch the riders tackling good natural sections.

I had one of the first 280 Pro's in 2002 and I've owned five more since then and never had a gearbox problem. It is however unfortunate that the design of the selector mechanism is such that if you smack the gear lever hard enough the repair involves splitting the cases. The 250 is a clubman bike and perhaps the clubmen are more prone to smashing into rocks than the better riders?

When installed there were no externally visible identifying marks on the S3 low compression head insert I had in my 2010 Raga, however it was marked '300B'.

In 2008 the Raga frame changed to the tubular one and there was a new airbox, etc. However, from a maintenance point of view I don't think the service manuals changed that much, if at all.

The larger screw that is angled upwards is the throttle stop. Screwing this in will increase the tickover. The smaller, recessed screw furthest from the motor is the mixture screw. Screwing this in reduces the amount of air mixed with the fuel in the pilot circuit, and vice versa. Provided your jetting hasn't been played with the mixture screw should be about 1.75 turns out, + or - quarter of a turn

Ah, the good old days, before musical accompaniment!

I have no direct experience with the TY50, but many years ago I restored a fifty that had been standing for a long time and it would virtually cut out as soon as the throttle was opened beyond a certain point. This was caused by corrosion inside the main jet reducing the size of my orifice!

I found that the genuine GasGas gear lever is useable with a flywheel weight, but the fancy looking pattern jobs are not.

BVM Moto can order you one.

Good idea to fill the top hat so that any air is forced up the hose past the clutch case and banjo. The hose should then virtually self bleed if you fill the reservoir, turn the bars to make the master cylinder the highest part of the system and gently work the lever with very short strokes until no more tiny bubbles appear.

I've seen a video on Youtube that explains what to do and also tells you the factory settings if you mess it up. Sorry I haven't got a link, but perhaps you could do a search?

You've got some slack or clearance between the lever and the master cylinder plunger, right? If you haven't this could be the cause of your problem. Provided you've got the correct clearance this is what I'd do. Turn the handlebars to full left hand lock, so the brake master cylinder is the highest part of the bike. Remove the reservoir lid, top up with fluid if necessary and gently sqeeze the brake lever; just by about half an inch. Its not necessary to pull the lever to the bars. If there is air in the system you will see minute bubbles appear in the reservoir each time you release the lever. Repeat until the lever is firm. Replace reservoir lid and ride! Good luck.

Why has the car got such a big front number plate?

Bad luck mate. Usual practice is to stand bike on the back wheel to drain the exhaust, take the plug out and with the bike upside down turn the back wheel with the bike in gear to drive the water out. If you kicked the motor over before getting the water out and with the spark plug still installed there's a good chance you've damaged the reeds which could account for the poor running. Provided the water was clean there shouldn't be a problem provided you can get the motor hot enough to dry everything out before the mains, etc start to corrode.

Maybe, but was there anything that you wouldn't have had a go at?

The 2000 TXT did have an unusual tapered spring and the shock was inverted (body at the top), but I can't tell you if the shock itself was different. I changed the spring for a heavier one by making a new retaining collar that held the new parallel spring higher up and further away from the swinging arm. You could do the same perhaps? If you want the original 2000 spring and collar there's one in my garage if you'd like to pm me about it. Dave

See here

That's Euro's, Nigel.