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I've seen some people with cycling bottle cages on the fork leg. I personally just stop ever lap for a drink as I also find it helps concentration. You can get pretty minimalist hydration packs now though. I hardly notice the one I use for enduros.

It's possibly just because people are more "busy" nowadays so if you're not riding, then there is probably something else you feel you should be doing. I'm guessing most observers are either the old guard or parents of riders? I often think I should observe every now and then but as I still have a lot to learn then I prioritise riding. When I'm satisfied I've reached my likely potential then I'd be more likely to observe. Obviously observers are critical for the sport and I'm so grateful to them, especially as I really wouldn't want to stand in the cold for four hours watching the same section over and over if it wasn't necessary for the sport. Often there are self observed sections but I am astonished at the level of cheating that goes on when that happens. Another option is more laps of fewer sections which is ok.

I love mine. They need a bit of fettling to get the jetting right and they never run silky smooth off the bottom but it's the most versatile bike out there. I use mine for Time Trials where the difference in size to a real enduro bike makes the whole thing a lot more fun. On LDTs the increased agility makes it very capable in sections. I've even raced a h&h on it and come mid clubman which is probably the same as I'd have come on my enduro bike. I really enjoy doing trail bike trials on it. However, it's built to a price so it's not the most robust of bikes. The biggest issue for me is the lack of a kick start. Second to this is the jetting. Other people complain about the brakes but they are absolutely fine unless you are really hammering it. Since getting mine, I've only ridden my enduro bike a few times, and that was mainly to keep it from sitting around too long.

Ah well that's a different story. Of course, we have to make do with what we can afford. Riding a 20 year old bike with worn tyres in Mx boots (I've been there) is still better than not riding! All I meant is that bang for your buck, decent boots are a good investment. They were a revelation for me as the increase in feel and agility really helped me.

Yeah but if you rode in Mx boots and then you rode in trials boots, not only would you have fewer points, you'd be a lot more comfortable and enjoy it more. Honestly, as a novice, getting a pair of decent trials boots for £200 did a lot more for my riding than anything else (other than practice of course).

I really need to get a stiffer rear spring asap. I've given up even trying to avoid the rocks and generally just bash through them now. Starting to show some scars on the underside already.

It took a while to get my head around too as the lower gearing should make the bike feel more powerful but in reality in trials, it slows things down so you can react to things more easily and the bike speed increases at a slower rate relative to the engine speed so you can get away with less throttle control. Trials is a funny old game. I'm a newb and I'm fairly comfortable with a 9/40 setup although I've not really ridden with 10/40 properly to compare.

Gaa! I was waiting for one of these (i.e. an electric bike with a proper clutch) but didn't see it coming so went for a TRS. That said, not sure I'd spend 9k on one but they are my dream bike - the ability to ride it pretty much anywhere out of sight is the big win for me.

Are you cleaning the seals and replacing the oil? 9/10 times a leaking fork seal is just dirt. Unless there's damage to the fork that is nicking the seal.

Right around the bottom or just the top side of it?

We've got a couple rocky venues and it's more when picking your way through the rocks than going over them. The sides of the frame that aren't covered by the bash plate. They are quite chunky there compared to my previous beta. But yes, a stronger rear spring and better technique would help, I'm sure.

Has anyone seen any protection that you can add to the bottom of the frame under and in front of the footpegs? My bike is about 10 hours old max, and it's got some hideous gouges in it already. The frame material is very soft. I want to keep this bike for a while and I'm genuinely worried they'll wear through over time!! Lol. Any ideas?

Yep, mine read about 1.1 to 1.5 for a club trial. I took it off after the first couple as I thought it wasn't working. Then I put it back on where I could see it and it really is that little bike time for a novice. I don't sit there with the bike idling in the queue though.

Out of interest, how much run time do you think a normal club trial entails? I've fitted an hour meter so that I can keep track when practicing as that's when the hours can clock up. I was a bit surprised as to the time spent riding at a normal trial.

If you're looking to maximize your results then go for the 250. If you're not bothered as much then either the 250/280. Not sure I've met anyone that needs the 300. Even very good riders I've spoken to have said the 280 is more than enough. I know of one that said the 300 was too powerful. The base model is easier to ride than the RR. Personally, I love my 250rr but I'm only a decent novice moving to clubman. I'm a big lump and there's absolutely no lack of power from the 250. I run the slow throttle as the bike is snappy from a closed throttle. It does appear that with trials, less is more.

Do you know for sure that the oil oil is unblocked? I.e. have you blown air through it to check? Or can you see light through it?

Have you confirmed that the master cylinder piston is clean and the fluid feed/return home isn't blocked? If it's clear then you should be able to back bleed with very little pressure. In fact, if you leave the master cylinder uncovered, the fluid will hit the garage ceiling... Ask me how I know.

For me, trials seems to be full of really nice, friendly, and sociable people. Makes a massive difference to a trial when you're having a bad ride but a quick chat to someone in the queue brings me back to reality that it's a bit of fun and a good day out. I cannot imagine how anyone could find the people in trials off putting. Ok, it does attract a few socially awkward types but everyone seems to treat it like a big community..... Makes me feel bad when I let out the occasional expletive due to stalling or missing a flag..

Not sure exactly what the question is but I use them on my enduro bikes and they are fantastic tyres. Very soft compound so good on rocks and roots. Wider spaced knobs and flexible sidewalls make them way better in mud than a normal trials tyre. On an enduro bike they need to be run at 6psi or they get a bit squirrelly. Don't last that long due to the compound. Not allowed to use them in trials competition in the UK. As a play tyre they are awesome but won't last as long as a Michelin x11.

So I've done a handful of trials on the RR now and thought I'd update this thread. Bear in mind that I'm a sportsman rider and this is my first new bike. Foot pegs - personally, I didn't get on with the curves and bought some S3 Hardrock aluminium. I definitely notice that I'm more comfortable and getting better traction with them. Engine - Slow throttle is a must for me. The bike is sharp and I'm still getting to grips with the snappy power. It's just the transition from closed throttle to open. Once the throttle is open and rolled on, the bike is amazingly smooth. Clutch - again it's sharp but not unmanageable. I'm going to put the softer spring in there but actually, after only 4 trials, it's improved my throttle and clutch control. Handling - sublime. Unbelievably confidence inspiring. Going to fit a a stiffer rear spring but otherwise it's so nice to ride. The only thing I've noticed is that I have to make a more conscious effort to get over the back for traction where on the old rev3 it would have tractored along. I think it's the light spring and too much preload but will see. Rider - still useless and clueless but enjoying trials more than I ever have and the bike is definitely a big part of that. Honestly, the standard bike may have been a better purchase when it comes to slick conditions but for everything else, I'm very pleased I got the RR. I'll just have to learn more finesse and technique.

What made you buy a 300? You're normally so particular/considered about things, I'm surprised you went for it.

What about the drain plug with a magnet on the other side? Does it matter which one you use?

If they're the same tech forks as TRS then this may be useful. http://www.rideformula.com/products/moto-forks/trial-39-factory/

Yes they should be level. (Actually, I don't know but I've never seen a bike where that would be the case).

What issues were you having?