digger144

check fuel filler cap breather is clear

you are missing the point it is the double wire connector on the loom that gave trouble not the kill switch connector, any problems give lampkins a ring they are very helpful

posted this one some while ago ,on our 250 evo it was the kill switch connector on the loom, not the kill switch itself, part the two wires &fit after market killswitch, the connector is behind the headlamp

this is normal for gas gas pro

i had the 07 320 i blanked off hot start device, threwaway plug cap &lead fitted old style plug lead & push on car type plug cap starting then was a lot better but you really needed to lean on a tree, get high on the kickstart & give it a good hefty kick.glad to see the back if i am honest which is a shame because it was fun to ride

sounds like you have got it spot on, enjoyment is the main thing, skills will come in time

i remember frank riding sidecar scrambles at biggen hill, he was very good .i cannot remember what bike he rode but i do recall the bike had unusual forks

rotax kart baffle pipes are easily obtainable on ebay or kartshops not sure of diameter though

putting longer shocks on rear will steepen head angle. i done this on a348 mont & it worked well

i thought it was ignition too retarded too close to tdc can run either way

i have been using a michelin x lite on my 300, pro it grips very well & no sign of wear, this is on mainly muddy sections ,they grip better than the x11 and about the same as irc

clever pieces of engineering these bikes are, but bantams?well i rode in the 50s&60s & i never saw bantams like these, they were a joke in my day,in my opinion it would be cheaper to stick bsa stickers on a modern bike & cut out the middle man, that should stir them up, ahbuurr the real sound of a bantam

definitely trapped air in system remove caliper hold it above master cylinder &pump fluid uphill, it works every time you can pump allday down hill &never shift trapped air, good luck

the evo shock is marginal longer but i found the stroke of the piston rod was considerably different, not quite sure how this would work, best to stick to original set up

remove the master cylinder from handle bar place it lower than slave cylinder so you are pumping fluid up hill then bleed out in normal manner i find this method works for front &rear brakes as well

i had same problem with my 2010 pro, grip spline end in vice gently warm lever with blowtorch &gently ease lever outwards, remembering it is alloy not too much heat & its gently gently do not over do it, does not need much to clear casing

almost certainly moisture in carb or cable freezing,best way to stop revving engine is to stuff glove or something similar up exhaust tail pipe that stops them

first time for me, bought a crash helmet for good price, enjoyed show talks,sammy firing up the porcupine was awesome, yes definitely going next year

try enduro bikes on ebay i think they are called tugger straps ,i made one out of an old car seat belt which worked & looked ok

try the stop button connection behind the headlamp remove loom connector part the two wires then fit after market kill button this cured same problem on our 250 evo

make sure earth wires are disconnected ,a bad earth on welder connection could put unwanted power throughbike wiring, play safe & disconnect everthing