naichuff

The 250 gaskets and seals are the same not sure about cylinder base as my motor has not been apart since new Only done seals and primary chains

Check out a vehicle wiring and component supplier for the terminals and resolder or crimp the wires in place

I use a Miller oil tank on both Cubs I did not use the plastic pipe to feed the engine but rubber oil hose to feed it as I cut the plastic pipe the wrong length on the first engine But when doing the second one used the plastic hose Like you it leaked at the gearbox where it fits on to the copper pipes So the was fitted with rubber pipe also The plastic pipe is a loose fit on the mettle pipe even with hose clip tight

Yes It is a tight fit

Never put any in the ones I have built either and there is none shown in the parts book for the bush type or roller timing side

They are The rider of my Cub says the action is better than his GasGAS and it showed up how bad the rear was

Duncan MacDonald supplies REH fork not MP These transform the front end I have used MP 32 mm and Marzocci's But I do not ride the bike I leave the to someone that uses it and tweak the bike to suit him

The main shaft and lay shaft are assemblies So these parts are not shown in the parts book They fit under the small gear on the end of the shaft holding the larger gear ( second on the lay shaft Third in the Main shaft ) One of my engines has run without these for years and is used every week

You could contact the VMCC and they have specialists on most makes

Got it I seen that one It must be a new product

Did a little research which type do you have There is new one that uses the crank case bolts or are you using the studs that the old stator was mounted on Really without seeing the problem it is not easy to say what is wrong The stator mountings no matter the type are a tight fit But if your is on the outer case it should fit Unless it sitting to high Unfortunately both bike and spare engine are away on lone so cannot take measurements for now

That is the first problem How are going to time it Because the rotor is not keyed on the shaft I did my first engine using the contacts in the distributor To get it to run But I used Electrix world on that engine The later engine I built I had the posts fitted You can adjust the time easier

My info came from the Honda TL125 owners manual and the cover look different It has two cover one in the center one at the top of the gen casing I do not have the bike any more as it belonged to my wife at the time till some low life stole it

On the left cover there is a srewed plug at the top On removal turn the engine and two marks are there one marked F this is the ignition timing mark and the other T to adjust the tappets Acording to the book this should be TDC

I have several crank cases and the numbers are stamped on next to the joint underneath So match up after boring

Just checked some pistons and they are marked AM and AM 2 The timing cases are three different types and are marked the same but different E part numbers

Just checked a few cases My left crank case has AM2 while the right is just AM and are a matched pair The outer clutch and timing cases are marked AM2 The inner timing case is AM1 What this is I do not know batch or type of alloy used?

It should fit You will need to blank of a hole near the to of the case where the screw that held the distributor went

I would another garage this one is full

They are not in the same pedigree as the TY 175 The heavy fly wheel do not fit the drive side (the seal carrier stops this) but and it will not pick up as quickly A 250 /325 motor may fit but I am not sure as the frame is different on the front down tube It curves just behind the head stock

Nice bike It would be a pity to spoil it The 175 motor and 250 motors look the same but have suttle difference In the ignition fly wheel is lighter Crank balance and gearing I bought one new and still have it The carb may also not be the same Mine is as it left the factory Have not had the head off yet and runs better than my pal's 250 Yes have to rev it more I also use a larger twin air filter as when new found dirt behind the one behind that panel Maybe mine breaths better!

A side points engine Cam shaft differs from the older engine in that the outer bush is larger If the engine is the double roller type ( not the bush timing side main bearing )The distributor/oil pump / cam drive are separate gears on the crankshaft held on with a nut The older type are one piece held on with a bolt I think the cam shaft gear are the same but I would need to check

Yes I deal with Feked as I have one complete Cub and one partly built cub I use to make and modify parts so they fit the good Cub

Only one hollow dowel and it is in the front hole

I know there is not a lot of clearance between the tyre and chain on bike that is in use but the swinging arm is of unknown origin I bought another hub and found it to be wider than the one in use Have just been the workshop where the other frame has an SM Produce rear an fitted the unbuilt hub brake plate and the spaced sprocket misses the frame and shock My engine is mounted as they can and I use a dished type gear box sprocket