naichuff

The mixture screw adjusts the air (next to the tickover screw} There is a screw on the other side (brass) is a pilot jet only fitted on premier carbs I use this carb on my cub

The brass insert where the needle goes through the ventury are different One is square at the top the other is cut away I use the the premier type on my cub The body uses a better alloy and the slide is coated

To replay to your query Trials are up dated all the time They started as reliability test Inthe SSDT observed hills started cica 1920 The first loss of marks for footing was round about 1930 When I started trials marks were 0135 later to 01235 on single route section Things have moved on multi routes stopping allowed as have the bikes

Yes there is an oil seal behind the clutch Fits in the case an slips over the sleeve gear bush

I have two cubs one uses Electrix world mounted on the outer clutch case The other mounted on pillars fitted to the crank case The first one is a little tricky to set up But both work fine I have used the PVL system also mounted on the pillar

I have two cubs One swinging arm I am unsure of sorce The other came from FEKED A cub one the tubes come from the pivet points at an angle and bend straight half way down The FEKED the tubes are straight all the way and sit outboard of the pivit points to allow the 400 tyre to fit

I run my cub with the standard cam as I found it harder to start and if going over a ridge where you shut off it would stall I built the engine in a verity of specs High comp pistons low comp pistons with and without the R cam I run high comp piston standard cam If can climb Scottish hills it is fine

You are correct down is on The lever is usually marked with a C and R closed and reserve

The cub I own has done three years running with no seals fitted with out problems A little oil down the valve guide can stop wear or seizure of the valve

Set points to the correct gap The spark will occur at the point when the points start to open This is 2.5 mm BFTDC if too advanced the engine will kick back and run in backwards Set up a lot of points been in the motor trade a long time so set a lot in my time Still run my Bulto on points

You do not say witch carb you are using I use an AMAL concentric on both cubs Both engines are move to the left One uses the cub manifold Yes the cable clears the frame but only just The other has a made up manifold that makes the carb more upright and is much longer and has more of an offset

You still have a bit to go I stopped competing at 68 ( was taking longer to get over the pains ) but use one of my off road bike to get round to take pictures Even used a cub at the last club trial ( taking pics)

My sherpa t is a 221 but is a 175 ?Had it since new but never had the head off but done a lot of work So are they 125 or 175 !!

My hand book for the TL 125 only shows the ignition Generator Black /white wire out up to a joint Green to kill switch black/white to double connector One to the contact breaker the other to the coil and condenser Generator and kill switch are earthed

That is the gear the sliding gear dogs on the lay shaft lock in to so if it is slack it will jump out Is the gear or dogs worn ?

I run a 200 cub using low 1st and 2nd Sleeve gear 29 matched to 16 on the lay shaft 2nd gear 26 on the lay 19 on the main 3rd 25 main 20 lay then 16 main 29 lay this gear does the kick start Watch putting the sliding gears ( if using standard gears ) on they look the same but do not fit the same One has grooves cut in the dogs that fits the kick start gear Easy put in wrong I have done it when I was in a hurry It will not select properly

Just change the crank oil seals One goes on the crank before the ware sleeve (in the groove ) It is a long time since I pulled the engine gear box apart Think one fits behind the clutch sleeve and the other at the out put side of the gear box May be wrong It is over 40 year since I split an engine

Owner manual says 10w -40 and 1 litre Still have a hand book but lost the bike a long time ago

The lay shaft bush looks like a blind hole but has a core plug on the end I have fitted some with no problems If it does need reamered out the plug can be knocked out and replaced You might not see it easily it sits behind the sprocket and chain

I have used a 620 / 300 and the main is only 110 It has ran for 3 years but has suddenly began running rich Looking in to the fault

Well that is very good going to do that

Greeves did build a modern trials bike I saw it a Telford some years back Three entered the SSDT where only the one finished Never heard much more after that

What type off gaskets do you use I use an o rings top and bottom A black square section type on the bottom and a red round section at the top If the tube is seated properly and no damage it should seal mine do alright

You will find there is two types of gearbox/cam cases as the o/d of the cam bush are smaller on the distributor engine I managed to get the correct one for one engine The other engine I made a sleeve to fit over the bush and into the case I made little top hat to fit over the end of the bush and bonded them on with epoxy glue Tried the R cam made it harder to start and lost some bottom end power Reverted to standard cam The engines can vary in power a lot one engine runs sweet the other not so yet both built to the same spec

The 250 gaskets and seals are the same not sure about cylinder base as my motor has not been apart since new Only done seals and primary chains