naichuff

Your rotor should be fitted on to a sleeve So you have the sprocket the sleeve {make sure the woodruff key does not touch the rotor)then the rotor I think the large ring went on fallowed by the nut The stator fits on the pegs (mounting pillars) and set the timing making sure there is an air gap all round between rotor and stator Recheck timing once you tighten the rotor as it can move as it is not keyed to the crank

I also use a Miller sump guard on my cub I usually remove it when working on the bike as it covers the screws to the cases and drain plugs The Meriden one is very smart I saw it last year at the Telford Show

You are ok I hardly see the trial I am in the office Might have better luck this year and see some action

There is only 180 riders (183 ?)Mike Bell 100 had a 350 bullet and his son Liston rode a 500

Check the boot on the M/C between the lever and piston I saw one rusted under the clip and washer not letting the piston fully return causing the same problem of holding the pads on

Bike was used today and went well with the longer inlet track and carb more upright Changed the slide as well Yes they were never fitted with this carb but that was all you could get new when this event started My B31 never ran right with the concentric but now runs as sweet as a nut on the new monobloc

I have a 175 Bulto with Renthal bars Some year later bought a 250 and it felt different Every thing measured the same The 175 was comfy 250 not so till I measured the bars the 175 had been shortened by me when I bought it new So it is what suits you Renthal make different bar my cub had Enduro bars on (wrong shape)

Yes I have also used other carbs but the bike is entered for the SSDT Pre65 so requires an AMAL to be fitted PS Project on going

Yes I have one fitted to my cub Just fitted a longer inlet tipping the carb to less of an angle and fitted a 2.5 slide today Still to be tried out It has a flat spot off idle but it may not be the carb but other factors ie ignition or exhaust The rider said it felt better (to icy to really tell) and could not get the engine hot

I have the same problem When I got my last pair the optician moved the distance part of the lens down I do not use them in trials yet but need them to drive on the road (to be legal)I also find when making part they look bent when they are really straight

Just an add on Carbon can also build up at the bottom of the groove not letting the ring down in its groove (new rings are bigger than worn ones) I always clean them out using an old broken ring be careful not to remove any metal of the piston

Hi I also have an engine marked like this Mine is a roller crank and distributor drive hole Yours looks like the 62 onward type by the shape of it (at rough guess) Rocker gaskets can be obtained as separate parts I have cases where the engine number is on the front mounting bolt lug

You just need to undo all the small nuts on the and the allan screw just behind the front engine mount (on the picture0 I left the gears on one side and crank on the other It is a long time since I did one about 40years I think

I have my rev3 2003 off just now did exactly as above post This bracket also holds the centre box of the exhaust That screw into the rubber mounting

The person using mine says it is ok the first lap when stopping to look at sections but next laps where the engine runs for a long time it gets hot and the power is dropping but there may be other factors causing this as every thing in the engine is new

Yes it does not seem a lot The engine is still being set up but I do not ride it It looks and performs ok up till now but may be different in the Pre 65 Scottish or road work for oil cooling I am working on that also

About 900 cc Will take more if engine and piping are empty but not much more

I have just looked at my Amal Mk2 The choke lever is on the left and the plunger on the right I push the lever down to start and up to run or hot starting and is the same as those on the Amal web site It is the carb that left the left the factory with the bike

I have PVL fitted to my Cub The generator has two wires one black one blue They have different size connectors Black small blue larger The coil has two terminals one large one smaller plus a red wire to the kill switch and a black wire with an eyelet to be earthed to the frame Other side of the kill switch is earthed

As 2stroke 4stroke says that was the norm I used 15 for trail work and 16 for long roadwork on my M49 and the 325 I had They were quick on standard gearing On 16 you could not pull 5th in town without speeding (30mph)But would sit at 70mph all day easily these used the smaller chain size but the later bikes the chain was bigger as on the 175 I have

Both engine I am using One has the bush timing side the other roller timing side both are distributor type engines so side points crankcase may differ again Seen a cub on Sunday that was fitted with 520 chain but it had sprockets specially made for it

I use the 13t 420 gear box sprocket (stepped type) on both my engines no problem Both have the twin oil seals Both engines have the access hole to change the sprockets Had them off last week to fit a low sleeve gear and lay gear in the good engine and ran it at the weekend ok

Yes I had the same problem on both bushed timing side type and roller type You need the stepped g/box sprocket type The first one I used was flat but both had the same part number

Hi according to the Hayes manual Free length is 42mm and wear limit is 39mm Need to go to the garage to find inside and outside OD's the springs can be bought as normal or heavy weight PS Just found an old one 40.46mm (1.6ins) 8.8mm(0.34ins) inside 12.9mm(0.51) outside Ian

What type of brake calliper do you have Mine is an 03 Rev 3 with AJP 4pot Pads are just held in with an allan screw and spring clip Re move the wheel slip out calliper undo allan screw draw out spring remove pads clean out any muck Refitting is in reverse