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On the end of the gear box shaft the clutch push rod there should be a mushroom shaped piece ( similar in shape to a valve in a four stroke) with a machined face on the end This runs on the flat roller bearing The other side of the roller runs on the adjuser screw Inside the main gear shaft there should be a push rod (lever end) then a ball then the part as above After I assemble a clutch I would pull it in and gently turn it ajusting the springs untill it runs true then wire the nut on

yes mine also had siezed pistons both on the same side so the disc was rubbing on the caliper I juust done the M/C and caliper pistons seals due to the age of the of the bike Ian

Hi I have just done my Beta front brake AJP with 4 pot calliper They are a pain to do I had changed all pistons and seals Push all the pistons all the way in On the lever there is two adjusters One on the body this moves the lever out from the bar moveout as far as posible The other has an allan grub screw Adjust till just free play. use a long clear tube on the bleed nipple fill system open bleeder If you have a big syringe to push the fluid back and forth chasing all the air out I use a gunson pressure bleeder which puts the fluid into a bottle and an air for a tyre to blow it back The calliper is better removed so the fluid exit is at the top so no air can be trapped Just be patient it can be a pain in *****

He repaired the case with a metal bond stuff The other fix was to use the early alloy case if they are still available

I have heard you get about 5 or 6 out of one board they can fit gas gas beta sherco as well If you make one you could sell the rest I know several guys that have them

I have an 03 200 Rev 3 with alloy case with no problems But my friend has a later 08 with a magnesium case and it leaked under the waterpump hose There is a coolant just designed to prevent this problem

The frame tank and side panels should all be blue as are the mudguardsThe engine hubs and lower forks were black I got mine new and still have it My bike is pretty standard Only the throttle front mud guard stays and one lever The frame is the wrong shade of blue Cases are now polished as are the fork bottoms Used it for three year then store it can now use it on VMCC as it is mot and taxed The 175 frames differ in the front down tube curves at the web at the lower yoke

I saw a modern trials bike described as vintage unless it was made before 1919?

I make a calander at the begining of the year Last year I had 267 dates Club nights 5 per month vmccc rallies, trials, scrambles, shows,and various other events A lot of events overlap as there is only 52 weekends You want to get out and just see other events they also struggle for entries Do not take a blinkered look at your own club see the bigger picture As ANDY M sayes money is tight

The Scottish Classic Racing do one day membership so do several other clubs but some the membership fee is so low you are just well taking the annual membership The SACU do or last year did one day licence. Entry increase? Can not answer that one as some entrants may be in more than one club so have an annual licence.

Remove the the outlet end there is two screws holding the black end on This will remove the baffle tube.It can be tight to get out but watch the box is very thin Remove any packing left inside and repack Just done mine and there was very little inside to remove It may take a trial or two to settle but it will change the peformance of the engine.

The parts book states both bearings are the same top and bottom All it says in the manual is pressing the bottom one on useing a tool ( looks a tube to me )but nothing on the fitting the top one so it must just slip in and ajusted by the nut under the top yoke Would not use any heat on the bearings

There is also O rings on the joint between the two boxes You will see them when you remove the tail box to repack it these go hard over time and break so do not seal

No the pistons should return without opening the bleed nipple Check you have free play between the master cylinder and the peddle The master/c may not be returning fully ( mud ingress) as this can hold the pressure on this could be partly why you have poor brakes

Both my B31 BSA and the two AJS's suffer wet sumping problems as they can stand for some time out of use over the winter Just removed over 1/2 a litre out of each last week 1 The BSA has a gear pump and as they wear allow oil to get past if standing for a long time The AJS's have plunger pumps still have the same problem but not as bad 2 The grade of oil is another factor I use straight 50 I tried 20/50 for cold running but made the wet sumping problem worse 3 These engines are road based and would be designed to run every day so wet sumping would not occur as much

amal can still supply the orginal type carb it is on there web site www.amalcarb.co.uk

Electrics can lead you a merry dance with a problem trust me I was a vehicle spark for 50 years Even if it look right it may not be Electricity is lazy it will take the shortest and easyest route or not at all( open circuit) As many parts are hidden away and hard to see They can be hard to find faults.

Try useing a Gunson tuner It is a spark plug where the body is brass with a clear center with the elctrode down the middle You can see the spark under load and set the carb up as you can see the fuel burning through the range I have set up several bikes this is the way and use it to balance the carbs on my Guzzi V50

The spring are discribed as damper springs For parts I use Inmotion/Bultaco UK

The only Dalesman's i have seen had Puch engines fitted not Sach's that is not to say they did not fit them

Just out of interst I run a175 sherpa The front brake is great It uses Newfren linings on the original alloy drum lining If not carefull will lock up on gravel The rear is a differant story It was fitted with the same linings but on a steel lined hub The new shoes were fitted just before the MOTand if it failed on poor brakes Repaired it but they are not very good but never have been since the bike was new. I ride vintage bikes so some of there brakes are immmm I might stop

My 02 200 also leaked used silicon sealer but found the mud got in behind the sprocket guard distorting the cover letting in water

They were trying to compete against the Spainish bikes but the power output off the engine was not right . Six of them ended up being used as ice racer at Murryfield ice rink

Hi Ros If it is a Greeves frame it is a Pathfinder as they did not have the alloy front beam These were made circa 68/69 when Villiers stopped supplies off engines Greeves used 175cc 6 speed Puch motor If you have the frame number the Greeves Owners club or Vmcc marque specialist may help Ian

Scottish classic racing club trial at Riggside on Sunday just off the M74 J 12 For contact look at the events section on this site