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naichuff

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  1. naichuff
    Just built a cub last year It had a distributor fitted I used Electicworld( in the basket case of parts) that fitted on to the outer clutch case which made life difficult to time the spark because when you put the case on you cannot see the timing marks The other crank case I bought have the pegs fitted and behind the clutch mod The units I fitted came off another cub and are 14" Rear subframe had mods done before I got it and has pins at the top mount
  2. naichuff
    Check out Draganfly motorcycles They do parts for C15s I use them for my B31 parts and they have a good service
  3. naichuff
    There are also the Dalmellington mcc Stevenson mcc who run trials in that area and the Scottish Classic Racing with some in that area All run trials for beginners and for Pre65 bikes so no stupid sections
  4. naichuff
    Yes you need the spacer as without it you load up the bearings pushing the inner race against the balls and cause pre mature failure to the bearing Had this with my Moto Guzzi when the spacer was missing and made one up that was to short The bearings failed very quickly
  5. naichuff
    I have an unaltered 221 The hubs engine and forks were black the frame is blue as is the tank and air box The frame front down tube has a curve in it just below the steering head Your one looks like the later plastic tank which is much better as the alloy ones leak at the front mounting bolt
  6. naichuff

    Andy

    naichuff replied to b40rt's topic in Anything goes

    It is also known as ALBA or ECCOSSE take your pick
  7. naichuff
    My Bultaco Sherpa 250 1968 had a amal concentric on it but my pals 1967 5speed had an IRZ as on the 4speed the body was prone to wear as was the slide these were made to a price and suffered a bit in wear
  8. naichuff
    I have just made up cables for the Triumph cub using universal kits They supply inner and outer cables with the fittings nipples and ferrels so you can cut to the length to suit Forget who supplied them but got in of ebay on Triumph cub parts
  9. naichuff
    The 175 is fine it is just may not suit every rider Bought mine new in 1980 still have it Rode every weekend for the first three years just use mine on the odd VMCC run Not had the head off yet
  10. naichuff
    I had a Butler from 1965 I think the frame number was on the head stock Could be wrong it was a long time ago Villiers engine number were on a plate on the inner clutch case and not stamped on the engine The plate was held on with rivets The fell off easily or the clutch cases were replaced so went missing
  11. naichuff
    I did not find this type filter very good on my 175 bultaco as dirt was found past the filter in the air box This was changed after a few trials when the bike was new for a twin airfilter The type where the inlet hose (to the carb) is part of the filter. Did the same to a 250 I had The 175 runs ok and the motor has never had the head off yet
  12. naichuff

    Castrol R

    naichuff replied to metisse's topic in Pre-65 Bikes

    Vintage bikes that use R have a total loss system If you use a recycle system (oil returned to tank or sump) Put some on a copper coin and it will clean it It is time to change it R was designed when nothing better was available for racing Oil technoligy has moved on since then
  13. naichuff
    Sorry will miss it migrating to sunny climate for the winter
  14. naichuff
    Agree with GRAHAM66 the radio one can pick up signal of the ignition system Wired ones are best Had one a BSA B31 for years Ok up to 55mph them flashes ( use it mainly for the time)The proper speedo has the wrong gearing Had others that did not like a knock If set right they are ok Have one fitted on the Beta just for recording distance and time run between services
  15. naichuff
    Go on to the SACU web site for Dalmellington MCC Stevenson MCC or Scottish Classic Racing They are holding a trial on Sunday see TC calender for up date on venue
  16. naichuff
    The return side of the oil pump is bigger than the feed side so it will draw air once the crankcase is flowing properly My cub and BSA do this as they both have clear plastic oil pipes If not the oil is not being supplied to the engine or it is filling up It take a minute or two for the air to appear as the oil will drain to the bottom while the engine was stopped
  17. naichuff
    looks like the pipe is flattened (starving oil supply) at the bend where it enters the banjo connector stopping the flow Both my BSA B31 and two AJS's the rocker feed starts below the barrel base on the same system (oil return side) as your engine so uphill should not be a problem
  18. naichuff
    Not that I know of Only saw it the once at the E&D club rooms years ago as the film belonged to Honda
  19. naichuff
    First saw this in the E&D club rooms as a preview I was an official that year so knew most of those on the film They have edited out a big step at the beginning where you see Mick showing lifting the front wheel He went up one that was even bigger Honda also made a film the following year
  20. naichuff
    Is the he crank running true after fitting big end Had one on a Villiers motor went out of true when tightening the sprocket and flywheel and twisted the shaft by a few thou
  21. naichuff
    Had Similar problem with an 03 It is caused by the hot cold cycle when the engine is run in streams cooling the cases and wet air being sucked in the breather over time Mine had a white film of gunge in the box That is not to say porous cases or pump seal leaking but you will be loosing coolant
  22. naichuff
    Yes had that on my own REV3 One piston was solid On the other REV 3 The steel washer under the circlip was rusty just holding the piston far enough not release the pressure It does not take much
  23. naichuff
    Is there free play at the lever before it pushes the piston on M/C Have seen similar problem with rust stopping the M/C piston fully returning releasing the brake pressure holding the pads on causing heat in the calliper making more pressure in the system then no go Does no take a lot under the little rubber boot to do this
  24. naichuff
    Interesting as my cub has a similar problem As for the HT coil it is all plastic mounting bracket I believe my carburation is out but so could the timing as the stator is mounted on the outer clutch case so timing is a problem Starts first or second kick when cold No misfire just hard to start when hot It has only done one trial since I built it so more work needed
  25. naichuff
    W hat does the frame and engine number start with The first number are the model type and size ie.221=175 Sherpa or 198 199 are 250 and 350 Sherpa's Also do they match
 
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