naichuff

I have used both R and standard cams using the same springs as long as they are in good order and within spec There is an minimum wear length

I run a standard 200 cub and looking to upgrade to 230 Mine is fitted with SM oil tank under the fuel tank using the large bore rocker feed pipe The original type is much smaller bore I take it the oil is not draining away from the head As the studs are sealed with the barrel base gasket so some type of draining is required from the rocker box to the stud and from the studs to crank case If not the oil will fill up till and try to drain down the push rod tube I also fitted an ARMAC breather to the crank case where the distributor was fitted

The last MOT my cub got the tester said that bulb horn were no longer legal and have not been for several years My Bultaco misses out mot exemption by one year

The clutch mod is quite common I have two engines done this way Yes you can change the sprocket with out splitting the cases It is the first time I have seen the oil pump mod done though

Although not the same type of bike I had a similar problem with a cub put a slide with less cutaway cured the problem until the lad that rides it change the exhaust and the fault returned So it is something else easy to check My 200 rev 3 goes off tune when it needs cleaned and repacked

I have an old 99 manual and it says for a carb PHBH26CS main jet(standard) 135 Slow jet(standard) B46(upper) 46 ( lower) Needle clip 3rd groove Air screw 1 turn out float 18.5 mm Hope this is a help to you

If your engine does not have the removable plate behind the clutch I think you have to split the engine I also use Electrex world ignition on both my engines and had not bother The gear on the lay shift is secured by two half moon clips I could not refit mine and it seems to run ok after two years running

Contact REH just bought new ones with 7.5W As the new ones are the same as the original design just made better

Mine would always flood when traveling in the van or trailer Problem is you could turn the fuel off but I could not get the lever to turn it on again Ended drilling the lever and fitting a wire to turn it on again

Hi If you look under the engine at the oil feed/ return pipes The return is the one nearer the front Then follow the pipes back If the engine has been drained of oil it can take some time for oil to return On my cub I use a clear pipe on the return to see it is working The oil level should have dropped when you started it up

Hi The stator has 6 coils mounted on it and two trigger units ( behind the flywheel) This generates the power to the CDI unit mounted behind the steering behind the right hand black cover This is connected with a multi plug The other box in there is the regulator for the fan and light Also check the earth wire (brown cable) in there

I run a 200 REV 3 and had the stater repaired The last time it had to have the triggers replaced The older (2000- 2002) have two triggers and have six coils These also can fail I would check there readings also

My clutch cable runs down the front down tube turn past the bottom of the barrel turning down over the sprocket ( where the bolt hole is and clip if you require) Then down under the swinging arm in to the case Make sure the plates lift evenly My push rod was also worn when removed but had done a lot of trials plus a pre65 ssdt

I run two engines both fitted with Electrex ignition One is fitted using the studs on the outer clutch case (a bit tricky to time) The other uses pegs fitted on the inner crank case ( much easier to time )both run OK I would leave the points case on just remove the points as they are no longer needed The first one has ran for a number of years now plus a pre 65 SSDT Hoe this helps

Yes the cable is on the short side My speedo is fitted between the clamps on the handle bar brace The cub was mounted the same but it was lost when the rider went over the bars in a bog I had to replace it Try to fit the sender/magnet as high up the fork leg as possible

I have used several different types Currently use a Catseye Enduro on the Beta and Cub both are hard wired type not wireless type Did try a wireless one but not a success Tried another make but it would have to be reset after hitting a bump

I have did this to many bikes The last one was a 175 Bultaco in 1983 Had to dry it out there and then (long push home )The motor still runs to this day un opened since it left the factory Just changed crank seals and oil change Leave the motor with water in it the damage will be done as 2stoke 4stroke says

I think the brakes were wet

I use a standard engine and clutch sprocket setup The gear box is 13t and rear is 58t (420chain) but I use a lower sleeve gear and lay shaft gear as the bike was set up for the Pre65 SSDT which has road work The rider tells me the gearing is fine for the sections and moor work

There should be a screw hole inside the clutch case just below the drive sprocket so the tensioner trails to the rear(clutch) The basic engine did not vary much I ran an early 5 speed 250 then the early 325 Now a 175 all use the same design

The pistons are interchangeable One has a flat top the other has a dome but round the edge is flat The head is flat on the mating surface then drop into a recess with the dome where the valves are If the head or barrel have been skimmed the piston will hit the head as there is not much clearance

The piston does stick out at tdc as long as the ring does not The piston should miss the copper head gasket and fit the recess on the head What piston are you using and was the head skimmed?

I have had two engines done by Meriden off road He fitted the pillars and sprocket access plate

No not this year

This part is a Triumph part as some Lucas rotors used smaller holes on the early engines The part you need is the adapter sleeve e4454 as used on later engines