naichuff

Have you tried Graystone they have lots of parts not on the web site. My cub was fitted with tappered rollers The front end is modified so do not know the sizes. I made up a new stem between the yokes to suit. I think yokes are BSA ones.

I do not think you have to change the gearbox interals as top gear is 1to 1but check this You shuold check the rear sprocket and gearbox final drive sprocket to see what is fitted Most common seem to be 17t 48t rear

What do you do with the oil feed/return pipe next to the bottom engine mount or do the later crank case differ?

I am building a cub I ordered new seals and the gear box final drive were just normal seals not felt ones. I am no expert on cubs and mine is a basket case still trying to work out what is good and whats missing from one complete (i think) and bits of two other engines

From what I have read you appear to have the wrong internal gear ratios The primary ratios are all the same but Sherpas use single row chain and Pursang us duplex As a rule of thumb I used to work on 30 to 1 crank to rear wheel on 250's for trials

Hi Early Sherco's were branded under the Bultaco lable in 1999 and were red They dropped the bultaco name and were just Sherco and changed to blue Check out the Sherco part of the forum

They are the later hubs the rear has no chrome liner The rear brake is poor The alloy brake pedal looks to small to get good purchase on it the front is brilliant

Speak Dave at your show as he no longer does them but the person that did them will do your own one with the steel liner Woody My 175 Sherpa has a steel liner from new built in 79 and I bought it new (A Parts bin build ???) The front is still alloy

Not in my back yard ban it

There is another spring in there number M117 index spring It appears to sit under the selector drum in the photo It may be the kick start spring broken and when replaced the broken parts not fully removed

I must disagree with the timing running back to close to TDC Bultacos will kick back and run when set 3mm or more BTDC 2t engines run both ways Villiers fitted to Bond mini car did this as they only had forward gear so to reveres the engine was started backwards using the starter I have a BSA B33 with manual advance retard If the lever is not set right and is to far advanced and kicks back you can have at least a sore ankle or knee (hitting the bars ) or really bad a broken ankle after you come out of orbit Fortunately 4t do not run backwards

Yes you are right Ros the Melville trial at Duns is on the 17th .Four classes three routes and Scottish Classic the 24th at Kilearn. New CoC at Kilearn better for Pre65/Twinshocks

My Beta does the same with or without the breather but so did the Sherco and Montesa The old Bultos would also do it Just leave the cover off after washing and use

Yes I remember him He would also know my father Tommy Robertson from the Edinburgh Southern I started competeing from 63 onwards and still ride bikes so would meet at events. Ian

Bultaco Pursang The brake can be fitted on either side What size of sprokes are you using I have one to be built on to a wheel to go on a sherpa

Inverness & District may be the nearist but go on to the SACU web site for the contact info PS just been on the SACU site I see there is a club in Skye

I had a 99 model it would flood when on the trailer When the pet tap on it was a pain You could turn it off but could not turn it on again Yours may be similar I fitted wire to the tap lever so it could be pulled to be turned on again

The standard Greeves never had bash plate but sometimes wish it had as I broke the cases often Unless sombody now makes them you will have to make your own The lower frame hangs down below the engine/gearbox so it was mosly the timing covers ( inner and outer ) that broke

I think there were only about six 175 Bultos in Scotland I do know one was written off in a road accident I still have mine that I bought new It was the bike shown at the bike show in Glasgow The motor has not been stripped right down yet I have seen on this sight that there was only 300 built

One tube is the gearbox the other is from the generator

It is not an easy job to get the fuel tap out Do it with the carb off The fuel stack is long so you need room to get it out The nut is right hand/ left hand thread so hold the tap unscrew the nut You may find a gooy gunge on the filter I did Also check the tank breather is clear as fuel will stop flowing correctly after running a while

I do not have 2001 parts/workshop manual but I have 1999 one. The carb is a PHBH26CS Main jet is 135 slow jet is B46 ( upper ) 46(lower) jet needle 3rd from top air screw one turn out (to start with) Float level 18.5mmThere is two slow jets one you cane see the other is above it There is two breather pipes one each side there was no secondery air filter Hope this helps

Least the rain stayed off More social than buying today although plenty stuff

The older type fork had a tendency to twist when riding in rocky sections The handle bars would not be at right angles to the front wheel You could grip the front wheel between your knees and pull the bars back into line The later forks and yokes stopped this

I use michelin on the Beta as I trial this bike and Pirellis on the Bulto as it is used on the road and trail and are stiffer and wear better but I would not use them in trials