guys

This GTL seems very interesting. But will it ever be used in trials? ....

Are you sure the clutch doesn't slip a little bit when starting?

Don't think the clutch oil gets hot enough to cause brake oil in the clutch slave to boil. (boiling point is between 180°C wet and 260°C dry) That said, Bou's bike has the clutch slave on the other side of the engine, mounted on the outside. I'm sure there's a good reason for that.

That's not normal, here in Belgium almost all Montesa parts I ever needed, could be delivered the next day.

Here are some close up pictures of the rear wheel: http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/gallery/album/158-bultaco-rebuild/

What kind of oil do you use? I used GRO Gear Extreme in my 2008 4RT and 2012 GasGas, and the only real difference between both clutches was that the GasGas clutch engaged a bit smoother and with the 4RT it was a little bit harder to find neutral when the clutch oil was older and needed to be replaced.

Why? To reduce the noice, that's obvious.

I've bought this one: http://www.photobysergio.fr/calendrier-2015-new.html,very high quality pictures. Just mail him: sergio@photobysergio.fr He's French but understands English

To stop smoking, thats a wise decision, but you'll have fun doing it and you will feel the gratification of saving a nice bike.

I guess we are spoiled here in Europe mainland. We have 4 different routes at each section: novice - senior/junior - national - expert. And still some complain because it's not tailored to their abilities. Some events even have additional classes that combine for instance 4 novice routes with the 4 easy routes of the senior/junior route.

Found this on the website: For orders or questions, contact us in project03@xiu-rdi.com

Here are 2 nice kits for Dadof2 ;-) http://xiurdi.com/gasgas-trial/#!prettyPhoto

You're hitting the log to high and you shouldn't make an arc. The intention is to compress both the rear and front suspension when you hit the log. when the suspension begins to expand you give the second blip of throttle and act as if you try to jump on the top of the log, at the highest point retract your legs to help the bike come up and over. There are lots of videos on youtube that explain this technique. Search for double blip technique for instance.

Bou's also one of the most precise riders around, he puts his bike exactly where it's supposed to be.

The conditions in the Belgian event last year were exactly like that. Don't remember how he scored there though. You only get a 1 if you stay still on the sump guard for a while, not when you keep moving, thats why he reversed.

Some nice footage of Dabill on his Vertigo:

I also wouldn't worry too much about the 0.25mm. But there's no harm in filing the slots out a bit to get the desired adjustment i.m.o. Check first if the flywheel sits perfect on the key of the crank shaft. If all else fails you can use one of these bolts:

Hiking or long mountain bike pants, they're a loose fit, some even have some stretch in them, lots of pockets and some have an adjustment at the bottom of the pipes so they don't get hooked on the pegs or kick start if you wear them over your boots. The only thing they miss is heat protecting pads near the exhaust. Not the cheapest solution, but neither are the baggy trial pants from Hebo or S3 for instance.

I bet the engineer had to skim the brake shoes of that winding engine also......................................................... and we're back on topic

After washing as mentioned above, wipe the bike dry, check there isn't to much water in the air filter box and start your bike. When its warmed up, go for a short ride, this will dry most parts and gets the water out of the chain and brakes as you apply them and thus preventing rust and preventing parts, such as brake pistons getting stuck. Lightly oil/grease the moving parts, foot pegs brake pedal, chain etc. When washing and greasing the bike also check for damages and wear so your bike will be tip top for the next event/training. Also from time to time,look under the small rubber caps of the brake and clutch levers, for muck and rust.