thats_a_five

First, make sure the pedal and linkage are working correctly. The pedal should NOT hit the sump plate. With the pedal fully depressed by hand grab the lever by the adjuster and see if there is still travel before the shoes grab (there should NOT be free travel). Check the end of the lever where it mounts on the shaft that goes through the brake plate. There should be dimples stamped into the lever and the end of the splined shaft and they should align. Sometimes with worn parts, you need to take up one more tooth on the spline to get full rotation of the shaft. If everything looks good externally, then remove the wheel and brake plate from the bike. Deglaze the shoes and the drum surface with emery cloth (sandpaper). Check the drum for ribs or grooves. Any ribs should be ground level with the rest of the drum surface. If the shoes look oily or greasy, they are trashed. Sometimes the drums are worn beyond the maximum ID and the shoes don't expand enough to get full grip. Usually you can get reasonably good braking even with oversize drums. While you have it apart, check your rear wheel bearings. If they are badly worn it can make it hard to get proper adjustment of the brake system.

See, it worked! 1 US Gallon is 3.8 liters. 1 UK gallon (also used in Canada) is 4.5 liters. Everyone confused now?

LOL. Yup, here in the US of A, we stick to arcane units of measure just to confuse our international friends and enemies. A "buck" is indeed slang for US dollar. A quart is 1/4th of a gallon. A gallon is 3.8 liters.

FYI, The HTX is not available in the states so I switched to Dexron 6 about 2 years ago. Works great. No problems at all and at 6 bucks a quart at any local auto parts store I can change it as often as I want.

Unfortunately there isn't really any workshop manual. One of the best resources is the set of youtube videos made by Jim Snell when he was the Gasgas importer. Search there or on google by his name or even GasGas maintenance and it's easy to find them. Good luck, Keep the rubber side down and the feet up!

The stock plug is a #5 but if it fouls easily, go to a #7. Its a good idea to carry a new,clean plug and wrench (spanner) to change it when it fouls. Note I did not say if, but when.

A quick search on eBay turned up this and many more in The land of orange haired narcissists. http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Stainless-Steel-6-L-Liter-Industry-Heated-Ultrasonic-Cleaner-Heater-w-Timer-/281725343444?hash=item41982396d4:g:MMgAAOSwTapV3ZB7

After melting a new set of pants, I removed the heat guard, wrapped the pipe with header wrap, wire tied on and reinstalled metal heat guard. Haven't melted any pants since. Header wrap was about US$12 and the roll has enough to redo a couple more times if needed.

Yes, its sounds like it is running too rich. In addition to previous suggestions, check your low speed mixture screw. In most carbs it is an air screw so turning the screw out would make the mixture more lean. I think Del Orto uses a fuel screw so turning the screw out will make more rich. FYI, I always carry a spare plug and tool to change it along the trail. Yes, even with my 4RT.

I believe that ethanol in fuel is pure evil. It causes various plastics to swell, various rubber to distort, and attaches to water molecules which then restrict fuel flow through tiny holes such as idle jets. Fortunately there are some fuel stations that sell ethanol free here in the states. That is the only fuel I use in all my non-highway, gas (petrol) powered equipment now. I have found that if you drain the fuel and let the tank air out (cap removed), they sometimes will shrink back to normal size. Problem is, this can take a couple weeks. You could try draining the tank after each ride and leave the cap off so it can air out, then refilling fuel just before you are going to ride next.

I put a car key and house key on a special lanyard that goes around my neck. Drop the keys inside my jersey.

Jonathon, Check your throttle cable at the lever end. I had an upside down moment that pulled the cable out of the grip about 1/4". Bike simply would not start. Pushed it in - magic!

Check the frame under the tank. The area where the rear subframe is welded to the front frame is a weak point. I have a frame that broke in half on the trailer on the way home from buying it. Fortunately it was just a parts bike.

Jonathon, I have been using Dexron 6 ATF in my 4RT for a couple years now. No problems at all. Also I can now start the bike in gear most of the time. Significantly reduced drag when in gear with the clutch in. I think it is Castrol but I am 1/2 a world away from home at the moment so can't check.

With the limited info,I would start by looking at the fuel supply. It sounds like the float valve might be sticking, causing the bike to run out of gas. Other possibility, clogged fuel filter, petcock or line.

I tried to upload a parts list that might help you. For some reason it will not upload. Check your private messages.

2 condensor failures in 3 years after you moved them up under the tank? Did you have similar failures in the 3 years before you moved it? What is the relative temperature inside the timing cover and under the tank? How close is the conderser to the exhaust?

Yes, the rewiring you described is just that simple. However, I question your desire to move the condenser (aka capacitor). I think most people move them for easier access in case of failure. Let’s think about why we have a condenser connected to the ignition points and why they fail. Electricity moves through the wiring at the speed of light. When the ignition points open, the electricity wants to keep moving (inertia) so it tries to jump the points gap (similar to a spark plug but much lower voltage). This causes burning of the points. Burned points make for a weak spark at the plug. The condenser is attached to the points to act as an electric “shock absorber” to give the electricity a place to go rather than to try to jump the point contacts. The closer the condenser is to the points, the faster it can absorb that electrical shock. This is why most bikes and cars have the condenser mounted in (or on) the distributor or next to the points. Moving the condenser farther from the points will reduce the ability for the condenser to absorb that electric shock – thereby burning the points sooner. For best operation, the points and condenser should be “matched” to absorb the electrical shock perfectly. If they are close, the points will last a long time. If unmatched, the points will transfer material form one contact point to the other. You have probably seen points with one contact eroded and the other built up to match its shape. Result: poor spark at the spark plug. “Matching” the condenser and points correctly requires specialized equipment and knowledge. As a result, people usually just replace both when one fails. The engineers have defined the proper capacitance (measured in micro farads) and assigned part numbers accordingly. Condensers normally fail by drying out. This happens with time, with repeated heating and cooling and sudden excessive heat. This failure is not usually visible at the condenser unless it is an extreme failure. You see the effect as burning of the contact points, poor spark, or failure to start. By then you will need to replace both the points and condenser anyway. So why do you feel you want to move the condenser?

Pinging and knocking are very different sounds caused by very different issues. Pinging (pinking for our overseas friends) is usually caused by too lean a mixture, too much timing advance, or too little distance between the piston and head (squish height). A mechanic's stethiscope,or even a piece of hose, can be used to listen to the upper and lower parts of the engine to identify where the "knock" is coming from. The carb needle is definitley NOT supposed to have a bulb at the tip. Such a bulb could cause a lean condition at idle which could cause pinging. The "bulb" may be a buildup of foreign material that can be (gently) removed, or better yet, replace the needle.

The seal dimensions are 10.5mm x 33mm ID x 46mm OD. (edit: These are for TLR200 Reflex) Any good bearing / hydraulics supply house should be able to determine what circlip you need if you take themthis info.

You are not losing coolant or seeing steam, right? You do have enough coolant in the system, right? I agree with others, most likely the impeller has failed. Easy enough to pull it to check. Lean fuel/air mixture will cause the engine to run hotter. So will excessive spark advance and long pulls up hill. Too hot of a plug can also contribute. I seem to recall a post somewhere by Jim Snell (GG Importer) or Ryan Young (Sherco Importer) that he recommended against using race gas. I don't recall the reason. Check the direction of flow of air from the fan. I have heard of some people in the southwest reversing it to blow through the radiator to push heat away from the rider. I amno engineer but I don't think this is a good idea because if you are moving forward at the same speed as the fan is pushing the air, you will get no air flow through the rad. Hence, not much cooling.

You have my attention. Are you going to post a link to this ORRe-29?

New reply to an old thread. I picked up a pair of Novogar Rage trials boots a few months ago. I got them, new in the box, from a guy who bought them and they were too small for him. They do seem to be a bit small to the listed size. Because I have very high arches, I bought some of the longer "straps" for the lowest buckle. The boots do feel stiff and like they will need a long break in period so I have been alternating between them and my very experienced (old, old) Gaerne's. With about 30 hours of Novice/Intermediate riding on the Novogars, I had the same thing happen yesterday. The lowest buckle tore off the boot right along the stitching at the bottom of the buckle. (click the pic to see entire pic) I am looking for help from anyone who has had this problem. Did you repair them? How did you do that? Thanks

New reply to an old thread. I picked up a pair of Novogar Rage trials boots a few months ago. I got them, new in the box, from a guy who bought them and they were too small for him. They do seem to be a bit small to the listed size. Because I have very high arches, I bought some of the longer "straps" for the lowest buckle. The boots do feel stiff and like they will need a long break in period so I have been alternating between them and my very experienced (old, old) Gaerne's. With about 30 hours of Novice/Intermediate riding on the Novogars, I had the same thing happen yesterday. The lowest buckle tore off the boot right along the stitching at the bottom of the buckle. I am looking for help from anyone who has had this problem. Did you repair them? How did you do that? Thanks

You aren't planning on reusing that broken kicker are you? A new bolt will not hold it together.