steve_earle

Id advise a 250. 300's are great news for the importers as rear mudguards are £100 a go and they use words like Novice to Expert in the spec sheets for them!! It must be a conspiracy to make more in plastics than they do in bikes.

I think the ground in Buriton is used by Bognor club that had some Hoad sections, We use some ground at the other end of Buriton but It's not suitable for older machines as its mainly just steeper banks on the side of hills. Butser would be a good venue if it was not so steep. Our aim is to keep it over simple and not too serious, I plan to take a back seat and let the older guys play!

This might be of interest, We have only briefly discussed it at the last meeting. We will decide the final format of the trial depending on interest and riders wishing to attend and choose our best venue for a classic event. Will be one or 2 routes, Advance promises to observe on the day will determine on how many sections we will have or if we can split the sections into pre 65 sections and seperate twinshock sections. Any input and help will be useful so we can tailor the trial to suit the majority of entrants. From our website: walthamchasetrials.co.uk The Keith Marshal Classic Trial We will be adding an additional trial to the calendar – The Keith Marshall Classic – for Pre65, Twin-shocks and air cooled mono’s only – including TY80’s. No hopping, no jumping, no logs and no mud will be in the rules! Keep an eye on the website for further details.

Pull off the waterpump casing and check for corrosion if it looks o.k just change the oil and keep an eye on it. Could be a waterpump seal or as others have said just condensation, I get it on mine from time to time and it reminds me to change the oil!!

ATF is fine, I've used it in various bikes for years. On my sons bike I changed to Putoline Nano Trans to try and make the clutch more progressive but now it sticks when cold, Never had a sticking problem with ATF but it does make the clutch a bit sharper. Plug wise I prefer a bp6es, It runs a bit cleaner in winter if you use low revs alot, Bp7es is better in hotter climates and summer it will help if it pinks, Ive always used 0.7 to 0.8mm gap.

I'd agree with Dadof, I've had experience with certain specialists, been chasing my ar5e for problems when it was the stator sent back untouched. There are some good ones but there is a couple that seem on another planet. I have seen a few Techno and 1 Rev cdi fail over the years but normally on a new ish bike, Very rare but there is the odd Friday unit about.

seen a complete electrical kit for a rev 3 on an auction site, Looks a bargain.

If they are leather use normal black shoe polish, They won't soften much but will help keep them waterproof and stop them cracking. Get lots into the stitching and seams. If they are synthetic then use a waterproof spray like scotchguard.

That's a cool looking bike!

The top guys can ride in all conditions but over the last couple of years all they do is show off playing the my bikes a unicycle trick, It's just a fashon.

I think 03 to 08 will fit the 04. For the 2000 I think the airbox and rear subframe brackets from a 03 on would let you fit the later mudguards I'm sure someone can confirm this. Try the breakers or have a look on a well known auction site over the weekend as I think a rear end from an 05 might be on there at a good price.

I found the same problem when putting an S3 head on a Sherco, The bolts are a smidge too long, A quick trip to the bench grinder and take 1mm ish off done the trick.

When you take the carb apart remove the jet tower that's held in place with 2 tamper proof torx screws. There is a rubber gasket in there and one side is glued to the jet tower. I have seen one with excess glue that was blocking one of the passages.

If it's a manual 50 (cadet or rookie), I can see a weight being a benefit as it's an adapted engine from a road going bike (Morini) and has a light flywheel. I presumed the bike in question was a TXT boy but forgot they did the manual bigger 50 for a couple of years also.

Pull the flywheel cover off and check it's not mud rubbing on the inside cover, while you are there take out the plug and rotate the engine by hand using the flywheel to see how the mains feel, also check for up and down play by hand on the flywheel. The mains will have a minute bit of play even when new as the bearing has to be able to expand with heat. It could be something else but without hearing the bike, can only point to the usual suspects.

Is that a Fantic 80 in the background? Looks sweet.

Get the jitsie bar pad, I have one on mine, It's smaller than the renthal and you can angle it down to clear better.

That setup should work, It will be on the rich side but will help with detonation. I have just set up a 14 factory with a 48 pilot, 128 main and the std 4 slide with a jjh needle clip in middle, Its had some ignition and compression mods and it runs very smooth with no detonation, A tad rich off the bottom but it's being ridden by a novice so it will stay that way till he improves. You could go to a 45 pilot with the 4 slide and change to a jfh neddle, This is more cost effective than buying a slide. If you want an aggressive setup 3.5 slide JJH needle, 125 main and a 45 to 48 pilot, Needle 2nd from bottom. With a 48 pilot the air screw will be 1.5 to 2 turns. What symptoms are you getting? If it's a new Sherco I would imagine it has an air leak as the stupid plastic manifold is a piece of junk, Sherco are aware of it and just supply a foam gasket to help it seal. You will have to order a box of manifolds at 50 quid each to find an almost good one! Speak nicely to Chris at splatshop and he will try to find you the straightest one possible.

Unplug the fan connector and connect it to a 12v supply, If it does not spin then the fan its toast. As others have said the thermostat wires are just a series connection, Basically a switch, Connecting a power source to the 2 wires will do nothing. Try the fan first directly and report back.

Does it make the noise all the time? Does it only do it while riding or in neutral too? Could be clutch noise as they can make a whining sound depending on the gear oil when the bike gets hot. If it's main bearings they will need replacing along with new seals, Beta recommend checking them after a year or a SSDT!!!!! You can try putting oil down the plug hole but that will not fix anything what ever the problem is, It will just oil up the exhaust.

Check your float level and while you are there check what jets it's running. Also give the carb a good clean, As it's new it doesn't mean its clean as the carb was probably pulled from a box and just chucked straight on the assembly line. The Beta's are shipped with a rich pilot, (52 I think from memory) a 48 or even a 45 does clean them up off the bottom, But that's a last resort as it should run o.k and work as intended from new. Jetting is personal preference. If after checking the float height and cleaning it does not solve it, Take it back to the dealer and ask them to pdi it properly.

Dadoff could be spot on here, I stripped mine during the week as I had some movement and noticed the bearing outer race had quite a bit of movement in the frame. I had 2 sets of new bearings in stock and tried both but still had movement. There are 2 tricks among others to sort this in alloy frames. The 1st one is with a sharp center punch and make punch marks on the inner frame where the bearing fits. The protruded marks from punching will reduce the diameter in the places and the bearing will tap in snug. The second and I would only recommend this in very extreme cases is wrap quite a few layers of tape around the outside to avoid marking the frame then tap the frame to make some tight spots in a sort of octagonal shape but only very slight as it's only a microscopic amount of play to remove. This is an animal approach but it worked on an old rev 3 and lasted my abuse. I also had play in the top yoke on mine where it meets the steering stem, The centre punch trick worked spot on too. I think Italian engineering had a lapse when it came to these parts, especialy the factory yokes. If my bike was new I would be screaming warranty by now.

I can't vouch for the 125 but the carbon reeds do give more torque and quicker revs in the 300's. A high compression insert will give it more grunt off the bottom and make it it more snappy at low revs. I have a head insert for a 125 sherco, I think its a high or very high, I'll have to double check, I got it used as a complete head but only wanted the outer part, You can have it if you want it, It's just gathering dust on the shelf.

Sherco parts are slightly cheaper than Gas Gas and A shed load cheaper than Beta. Beta's are cheaper bikes when new but wear and tear parts like swingarm bushes and linkage bushes are insane, Beta are the best for warranty and dealer back up, So it's get what you pay for. The cost of keeping an 07 Sherco going will be cheaper than a Beta. Plus the year of Sherco's you are looking at are fairly bomb proof.

keep the 245 as is, just swap the rear shock then break the k roo for spares and use some of the money to buy some forks for the twinshock project. What engine size is the key roo, I might be interested in the bottom end, I have some nice forks and yokes etc from a 247 I could do a deal with.