2stroke4stroke

I got one of those but it needs a small diameter funnel to fill it. They're also available with a full size orifice so look carefully.

I don't suppose you'd get away with a GTX can slung from the belt of your jacket as we used to do, but a proper petrol container in a backpack seems a better way to do it. Gives you more choice of bike if nothing else.

Whatever happened to the Dynamin (I think that's the correct spelling) pistons Sammy Miller used to sell? They were a lot lighter too though.

Ah yes, I remember the John Lee Firefly.

Vertical, "or as close to vertical as is reasonably practicable". However, there is a requirement for the characters to be distinguishable within a certain area. Given that, on some bikes, fitting a plate to the surface of the mudguard would actually have the plate showing forward rather than rearward on a strict definition, some sort of bracket would be needed to comply with that requirement. Check the Road Vehicles (Display of Registration Marks) Regs 2001 on .gov.uk .

Was there not the occasional Cub engined Cheetah? Or is my memory as bad as I think it is.

I once passengered and have spectated a couple of times and the grip they get with a standard tyre puts a trials bike to shame. Some of the lines taken seem a bit strange to me, eg not taking advantage of a straight run at something.

I don't think four miles each way will do any harm, after all you're not trying to keep up with an SSDT time schedule. In fact it will do the bike good to get a bit of a clear out.

Like this you mean? https://youtu.be/fq3xXdcZacc

My comments were not directed at any particular breaker but how could anyone stripping a bike know if the ignition worked properly once the bike had been running for an hour or so? Problems often only appear when the motor is fully hot. The breaker is (honestly) gambling as much as the buyer.

Sounds to me like you have a rather fast tickover anyway (if that is it reaching tickover before you blip it). Try adjustng it down on the throttle stop screw then see if you still think it is a problem.

Probably no great advantage. Any big improvement would come from altering damping etc which could as well be done to the early ones I suspect.

As an owner of an '09 it had escaped me that there was a 2018 model, with no apparent announcement, though looking now they don't seem to have changed the appearance of it. I found the 2017 to be softer off the very bottom than my 250 and seemed to go slower in first, so much so that it almost felt lower geared which of course it is not, and the better for it. I would have expected some fanfare if changes such as you feel had been made. Better informed comments will no doubt follow and I will be interested to learn from them.

And not foolproof. A pal runs a car workshop and, often enough, the software says to replace component X to cure a problem, but that does not work so then it's component Y. It ends up as a chase through various components before, possibly, resolving the issue.

Apart from the exhaust (why would anyone *******ise the standard system in that way, I wonder), and preserving the alloy guards as mentioned, the most important thing you need is decent modern footrests.

That's not what I would call a "renovation project"☺

I can remember doing the Lakes Two Day with about a foot of snow on the moors and the rock sections had been salted to give some grip, but we did have to get the other guys out the digs to push the car and trailer the last bit up to the farmhouse. Then there was the time we ended up overtaking the snow plough on the way to a NE Centre event.......... I recall laying out events in the snow too but don't know if I could be bothered now, forty five years older. However, a lot of what we've had recently was just a normal winter when I was a kid - no question of the school closing alas and the buses kept running when a gritter lorry was two guys with shovels and a pile of material on the back of a flatbed truck.

I think that is effectively what the spacer achieved, by moving the windings further inwards over the magnets.

Can be done apparently. I think it's H&D that have a spacer for the generator that supposedly allows a slow tickover but I have never heard of anyone trying one. Correction, I think it was here www.montesa4rt.nl which seems to be no more. They had lots of useful info too. Can any of our Dutch members tell us what happened? And indeed if the spacer worked.

I'm not a gambler, never having placed a personal bet in a bookies, so wouldn't be inclined to take a punt on a stator from a breaker. At least a professionally sorted one will work, and for a reasonable time.

Some folk can really mess up a bike's running now, with just a screwdriver. Goodness knows what sort of a state they could get one in to if let loose on an ECU.

When the 4t first came out a friend had problems with the bike not running properly. Turned out he was unaware of the hot start button and (I can't remember which way now) has assumed it was the choke and was running with the choke on all the time, or vice versa. Worth checking they are both in the correct setting?

If you're going to use those on a Bantam then Uncle Bunt would be the man to advise☺

Try East Scotland Trials Forum, the answer will be there.

Not overly popular in the day (it didn't seem to outperform a TY which was the standard clubman bike) probably due to the high pricetag. From threads on here over the years I gather parts are somewhat hard to come by now, to say the least. I'd have one if I was a collector but it's probably not a practical proposition for regular use.