yamanx

OK, I am going to fit electronic ignition, I realise not all you guys see a need for it. But I am going to fit it So do I: Use the existing flywheel? Heavier for possible momentum and what the engine was designed for. Or Get the lightweight internal one? Lighter, (Revyer?), far easier to set up, install and maintain.

Nice looking Monty

I have the Acerbis one, and it is excellent value. My only negatives are that the visor is smoked and the helmet is a bit wide, obviously to accommodate the visor. I also have the Hebo one, which equally as wide. I like the safety glasses idea

I use a load of old nuts and bolts with some thinners

I recently had some re-chromed and ground for £130 http://www.dynasurf.co.uk/motorcycle-forks

I need to get a piston kit for the Bultaco Sherpa T 250 1976. (Engine number 19000***) Including postage costs these are the prices I have found so far for the kit: In Motion = £180 Feked = £185 KBR = £168 And from the USA at around = £130 But before I go ahead and buy one, probably from the USA Bultaco spares people, can any of you guys recommend somewhere? Or a piston that will fit, not necessarily a Bultaco badged piston kit, just the right sizes? There may be a common piston that people fit, that I don't know about?

This guy charges £30 plus shipping costs http://www.kpmotosolutions.com/

Disposable income I suppose is the main reason for this. Ted Fenwick is my inspiration see here: Ted Fenwick Road Racer Extraordinaire

I make sure I do at least one thing in the workshop, however small every single day. That way the build tends to move along, even if its slow. Currently building a Bultaco T 250 from the late 70's, and even in the very cold conditions I have managed to get the old wheels bearings out, clean up the brakes, wheels & hubs, and get new bearings and seals fitted. The front wheel is now in I too worry about fire in the shop, I have built a small spray booth in the corner and I use thinners for washing stuff down, degreasing etc. So I bought a 3kw electric space heater, which doesn't "Glow" red. I still switch it off when handling anything flammable or painting. The old bike prices appear to be a lot higher than they really are, particularly if you're using ebay as a guide. Sure the prices will steadily rise as they become rarer. But ebay prices are purposely kept high by the dealers. There was a Montesa Cota from the early 1970's advertised on there for nearly two years at at least double its real value by a dealer. Other dealers then follow suit and the general buying public consider this inflated value the real value. But if you look at the public auction only ads, they don't get bid up to anywhere near the fixed prices. I paid, fairly recently, £650 for this Bultaco, its 100% complete and has hardly seen any use in its life and I bid along with others up to this price. Dealers and some people who use ebay as their price guide would advertise it for far more, but just because they are advertised at this doesn't mean they are selling them, I keep a close eye on this and many of these bikes are on ebay for months and months and don't sell from that platform. I don't like selling them on either, I have 7 bikes in the shop now and another project in waiting, but frankly you have to part with them, usually for the money to buy the next machine or needing the space. I'm intending to ride my two twinshock bikes this year, so these, for the moment, are keepers

Interesting fork gaiters, how do they work?

Great day out, a lot of walking, which is fine on a glorious day in the countryside. A big thank you to the land owner I would say, to allow a couple of hundred old trials bike to ride around all day. Some pretty amazing skills by some on those old bikes, looked very enjoyable. Well turned out machines for the most part, a few ratty bikes, but as a rule some very nice bikes. Never saw a single Montesa and only two or three Bultacos, loads of Fantics, Yamahas and TLR’s, which seem to be the most popular bikes. The air cooled mono’s with the right rider easily out performed the twin shock bikes from what I saw. Some riders must get a bit fed up with others in the way, some inconsiderate riders looking at the sections whilst others are trying to navigate their way through, I suppose there’s a mixture of all sorts as in life. So now I’ve, sort of, sussed it out, how it all seems to work I need to get the Bultaco finished off and myself out there. See you next time from the saddle then, (Or lying upside down in a pool of mud). Took a few random photos, here’s a couple.

No reason, it's just easier

You only use the cable ties to get the tyre on and off. A beader for forming the seal, although I usually use the ratchet strap method someone mentioned before.

First round for 2018 is this weekend at PlasOnn Farm Selatyn , run by Aqueducts, thought I might have a day out and go and have a look, suss it all out So if you see a slightly over weight old git with a silly hat on, its probably me

Hi, how do you do this self declaration? Is there a form, I've had a brief look but can't find anything?

I've changed dozens of tyres over the years, for tubeless one of the easiest ways is to use cable ties. Not kidding here, look it up on youtube. You basically cable tie the tyre into one ring. It works, I've done it several times in the paddock when club racing when theres no tyre service there. However, for tubed tyres this doesn't work so well, and getting the inner tube trapped is very common, then have to do it all again!

In May of this year any vehicle over the age of 40 will no longer require tax or MOT. So how will this change the process of registration for older machines? At the moment for a 1977 Bultaco Sherpa for instance, your require MOT to start the process, will this change?

A few of the major suppliers were missing, good atmosphere though and I still managed to spend a small fortune. One thing for sure reference the auto jumble and "project" bikes, Ebay sure has a lot to answer for!

Fact of the day - Never wear shorts in the Ukraine because Chernobyl fall-out

I use 60;1 on my Cota 247 of fully synthetic race oil (The main reason is I was sponsored by Silkolene when I was road racing, and I have loads of it left! ) I also add about a cap full, for two thirds of a tank , as I only usually fill the tank to two thirds each time, of R40, I only do this for the smell really but it probably changes the mix to about 50:1. I dont always do this, just now and again as the Silkolene race oil smells pretty good anyway and reminds me of my TZ racing days! ETA: The R40 sinks to the bottom of the tank as well, maybe its something modern R40 does, because I dont remember it doing this years ago, so shake the tank up good and proper or it gums up the carb when you turn the petrol on practically neat R40 is the first bit of fuel, particularly if you're on reserve. Although R40 is not really for two strokes anyway, just smell gorgeous!

Dog 1: “Help me with this crossword clue. Outer covering of a tree, 4 letters.” Dog 2: “Woof?” Dog 1: “You’re not even bloody trying.”

Here's one I made earlier

Looks fab-u-lous Great job

First woman on the Moon: "Houston, we have a problem." Houston: "What?" FWOTM: "Never mind" Houston: "What's the problem?" FWOTM: "Nothing" Houston: "Please tell us" FWOTM: "You know what the problem is."