faussy

As with most rim tapes, having them hold high pressure is the easy bit lol

I struggle to get new rim tapes to seal nevermind repaired ones!

I get the difference now. Been riding trials for 20 years and never heard of a zap or a jap zap. Guess it must be an american phrase

In the double blip the front wheel is what first contacts the rock, in the zap/splat the rear wheel is what first contacts the rock because the bike is usually launched at the rock at a steeper angle. The double blip is mainly used for obstacles up to 4/6 feet, and usually the splat is whats used to clear a taller obstacle, but it usually depends on the shape and undercut of the rock. As a novice, i dont see you needing to use the zap/splat technique for a good while yet No, you dont need to always cover the front brake, or the rear, sometimes its just not possible EDIT: Having since checked out what ryan young is calling a zap, in his terms a double blip and zap are identical. WTF is a jap zap? Confused.com. Call them what you want, but you can either touch the front, or hit the rock first with your rear.

And how did you pressurise the engine, im intrigued 5-10 inches of mercury would be more than sufficient btw

Super unleaded, 60:1 is what i run.

Hooray lol

big wheel 80 in my opinion

Sounds a tricky one, because you obviously know your way around bikes having looked in all the right places. Keeping it simple, theres two requirements, a spark and fuel, and since you have a spark it sounds like you are short on fuel. Is the carb definitely getting fuel, is the choke working, could you maybe try a taste of fuel down the plughole...

To me the tyres look in good condition, edges look good. Best thing you can do is keep them out of the sun, keep them in a box or somewhere dark. Keep them in air free from ozone, as ozone contributes to rubber cracking the most. This however is a little harder to do lol

The maintenance manual also says to replace the cylinder and cylinder head every year. Do you follow their guidelines on that too?

In that case your bike must sound like an old motocrosser and not run very well. Its hardly pulling a bike apart, its 5 screws, costs a fiver, and can be done in less than an hour. Your last sentence defies logic

Opinion varies, depends who you ask. In my opinion every 6-10 trials, you can usually tell when it needs done by the harsher sound. Its cheap to do, and does smooth the power, although can be a right pain with the newer style plastic endcaps

Nothing can match the engine of a 300 gasgas (unless its just too powerful for you, usually is for most clubmen). Dont really care what anyone else says, (lol) ive ridden everything and the torque and smoothness is unparalleled. As for a complete bike, the usual rule of thumb is if you like a beta you will probably hate everything else, if you like everything else you will probably hate a beta. IMO the best ever clubman bike was the scorpa sy250, unfortunately no longer on the go

Correct decision IMO. Dibs is riding the best he ever rode and has realistically only got another 2 or 3 years at the top of his game. Nows the time to fully commit to the WTC. The first round is only a week after the SSDT, a week! It has got to affect his performance in the first round and if a good performance in the 1st round is the difference between a 6th and a 5 th, or a 5th and 4th at the end of the year then it is well worth it. I imagine he would happily trade another ssdt win for even the slightest possibility of a higher ranking at the end of the year. He has lots and lots of other years to compete and win the ssdt

Never heard a fork stanchion called a leg before in my life, and the legs are far more prone to tarnishing than chrome or anodised stanchions. The clue is in the name, leg...

How on earth would a fuel additive fix this problem?

He/she means the legs, not the stanchions. Are they anodized silver, painted silver or just brushed aluminium? If they are the latter 2 polish them (emery and tcut), if its the former, it would be a right pain to remove.

Not sure what your problem is but NGKs are notorious for failing after being oiled. I prefer ngks to champions, but when a champion oils you could always clean it and its fine

All the more reason for him to know the rules

If you dont ride in particular rough or wet conditions its really surprising you are getting stuff into the airbox. Are you riding with the lid off? As said above, theres a world of difference pre and post power wash. The only ways in (other than the inlet) are through the lid and between the joins in the airbox. Previous ggs i had werent glued together but my 17 was glued together. Perhaps you could check and if not, dismantle the airbox and silicone the two half together. As for the lid, if im riding in rivers i tape the gap around the lid, if im nowhere near water theres no need. PS regarding evoalien, id put up with a lot more than the infrequent piece of mud in my airbox than ride a beta

100% not a wives tales! Hot enough that they give a good sizzle and steam when douched with water, but not too hot that you blue the disc. Dragging the brake for about 30-60 secs is usually about right Dont ask me how or why it works, but it does

As you rightly say it is an eco model, looks pretty standard too.

Standard footrests DEFINITELY flex!!!! Ive a box full of old ones bent out of shape. You are welcome to come look at them. Ive yet to see a set of billet aluminium or titanium footrests bend

more info here http://www.trialscentral.com/news-archive/headline-stories/18749-gas-gas-unveil-txt-gp-in-milan basically as suggested above, 3 way reiger, new tech forks, carbon airbox. All for an extra 1000 euro. Is it just me that still prefers the looks of the standard. Ive never liked the raga/factory, gold frames, black frames or the white frames.