faussy

If your bike runs too rich its because you have too much oil in your fuel

lol. The pedal configuration in cars is the same, irrespective of LHD or RHD

As was agreed in a previous post, trials is already extremely safe. Im starting to worry some official sees this post and starts to think trials is dangerous, and before you know it a whole raft of safety measures has been added! As a previous poster said, common sense when marking a section is vital. A section can be very hard but also safe, yet a very easy section can also be dangerous.

I agree with the above comment, however solid discs and sprockets were well overdue IMO. I still think more could be done to minimise fingers in chains, especially after the amount of people losing fingers and thumbs in motorcross. The only other safety equipment ive seen creeping in lately is the full face helmet. I've never had a facial injury (touch wood) but know of people who have and still ride with an open face. I think full face helmets would detract a lot from trials, but so do most safety rules when they are first brought in. Should we be wearing mouth guards like boxers and rugby players? I also see a lot of older riders riding in competitions with no gloves, and even some new kids. I may be starting to come across as a mini hitler here, but surely wearing even the basics of safety equipment is a must, and something ive never seen enforced. My point is, if you cant enforce people to wear gloves at club level, surely you cant enforce much more

British-someone from britain UK-someone from the UK English-someone from england Scottish-someone from scotland Welsh-someone from wales Irish-someone from ireland Manx-someone from the isle of man Costa Rica-someone from costa rica

As with most rim tapes, having them hold high pressure is the easy bit lol

I struggle to get new rim tapes to seal nevermind repaired ones!

I get the difference now. Been riding trials for 20 years and never heard of a zap or a jap zap. Guess it must be an american phrase

In the double blip the front wheel is what first contacts the rock, in the zap/splat the rear wheel is what first contacts the rock because the bike is usually launched at the rock at a steeper angle. The double blip is mainly used for obstacles up to 4/6 feet, and usually the splat is whats used to clear a taller obstacle, but it usually depends on the shape and undercut of the rock. As a novice, i dont see you needing to use the zap/splat technique for a good while yet No, you dont need to always cover the front brake, or the rear, sometimes its just not possible EDIT: Having since checked out what ryan young is calling a zap, in his terms a double blip and zap are identical. WTF is a jap zap? Confused.com. Call them what you want, but you can either touch the front, or hit the rock first with your rear.

And how did you pressurise the engine, im intrigued 5-10 inches of mercury would be more than sufficient btw

Super unleaded, 60:1 is what i run.

Hooray lol

big wheel 80 in my opinion

Sounds a tricky one, because you obviously know your way around bikes having looked in all the right places. Keeping it simple, theres two requirements, a spark and fuel, and since you have a spark it sounds like you are short on fuel. Is the carb definitely getting fuel, is the choke working, could you maybe try a taste of fuel down the plughole...

To me the tyres look in good condition, edges look good. Best thing you can do is keep them out of the sun, keep them in a box or somewhere dark. Keep them in air free from ozone, as ozone contributes to rubber cracking the most. This however is a little harder to do lol

The maintenance manual also says to replace the cylinder and cylinder head every year. Do you follow their guidelines on that too?

In that case your bike must sound like an old motocrosser and not run very well. Its hardly pulling a bike apart, its 5 screws, costs a fiver, and can be done in less than an hour. Your last sentence defies logic

Opinion varies, depends who you ask. In my opinion every 6-10 trials, you can usually tell when it needs done by the harsher sound. Its cheap to do, and does smooth the power, although can be a right pain with the newer style plastic endcaps

Nothing can match the engine of a 300 gasgas (unless its just too powerful for you, usually is for most clubmen). Dont really care what anyone else says, (lol) ive ridden everything and the torque and smoothness is unparalleled. As for a complete bike, the usual rule of thumb is if you like a beta you will probably hate everything else, if you like everything else you will probably hate a beta. IMO the best ever clubman bike was the scorpa sy250, unfortunately no longer on the go

Correct decision IMO. Dibs is riding the best he ever rode and has realistically only got another 2 or 3 years at the top of his game. Nows the time to fully commit to the WTC. The first round is only a week after the SSDT, a week! It has got to affect his performance in the first round and if a good performance in the 1st round is the difference between a 6th and a 5 th, or a 5th and 4th at the end of the year then it is well worth it. I imagine he would happily trade another ssdt win for even the slightest possibility of a higher ranking at the end of the year. He has lots and lots of other years to compete and win the ssdt

Never heard a fork stanchion called a leg before in my life, and the legs are far more prone to tarnishing than chrome or anodised stanchions. The clue is in the name, leg...

How on earth would a fuel additive fix this problem?

He/she means the legs, not the stanchions. Are they anodized silver, painted silver or just brushed aluminium? If they are the latter 2 polish them (emery and tcut), if its the former, it would be a right pain to remove.

Not sure what your problem is but NGKs are notorious for failing after being oiled. I prefer ngks to champions, but when a champion oils you could always clean it and its fine

All the more reason for him to know the rules