dan williams

I don't think WD40 will work anymore. I think they stopped using propane as a propellant. Starting fluid will work.

I think Peter's suggestion is the O-ring that seals the shaft to spacer my need replacement. Not sure how that is to do. I would imagine pull the spacer then remove O-ring with something like a dental pick then cover splines with tape to protect O-ring and slip on new O-ring, remove tape, make sure spacer end that seals against O-ring is smooth, throw in spacer and sprocket.

People are always surprised by the compression of a trials bike and to be honest I've never been able to properly start a GasGas. I suspect there is a big difference in the kick start ratio compared to my Beta. If it's running good and starts well then just ride it.

Yup what they said above. The good news is you did this to yourself which means it's something you can fix fairly easily. Everyone on here who's taken a carb off to clean or adjust has been in the same situation where we put the carb back on and realized something ain't right.

Welcome to the pub puzzle of the modern trials bike where you have to disassemble half the bike to get to what first appears to be easily accessable. I don't know about the Scorpa but I suspect it's the same as the Beta and it'll become apparent that there's some little twist to getting it apart. You'll discover this after dropping the exhaust and the chain and the front motor mount to rotate the engine case so something else interferes with what you're trying to do. Take your time and think your way through the problem. Any time working on the bike is a learning experiance. Might as well get the most out of it. Why are you pulling the head?

Ahhhh good point. Next year maybe if they are modifying production frames.

We are glad to have you. Hope you enjoyed Berwick. We have rocks.

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/group.asp?GroupID=BLEEDER http://www.probolt-usa.com/titanium/ti-motorcycle-special-parts/titanium-banjo-bolts.html Just google "banjo bolt bleeder" and a bunch of vendors show up. If you use the correct wrench you won't round off the flats but it sounds a bit late for that.

The point of the exercise is to use all the controls. Front brake makes the bike want to stand up. Back brake wants to pull the bike down. Practice working clutch against back brake for smoothness. Work clutch against front brake for recovering balance. Same for thottle. I understand the idle tends to run high on a 4rt but you want to get used to working all the controls against each other so I'd slow the idle for practice. There is no right or wrong technique. You are trying to build a set of conditioned responses so the more varied techniques you practice the better you'll handle the unexpected.

Well it's what most of us would do except bilks 'cause he's a showoff.

You can try the clutch fix pinned at the top of the Beta forum. On a bike that old you may also have some swelling of the fiber plates and the steel plates can be polished to cause a hydraulic lock. You may also have notched the basket/hub. Basically the best way to know is a disassemble and look.

Type the model into google images and try to match. That's what we'd do.

just to be sure we are talking a Mikuni VM26-208? Parts are readily available from any online carb shop but it's rare to damage a float valve especially on a trials bike. Much more likely to have a fleck of dirt on the seat. I think cleaning and setup should be all that's required. Clean with compressed air. NO WIRES! I've seen it noted by some but i'd run nothing through a jet or valve but air.

Ah, the brass tube on the bottom of the float bowl is the overflow. Disassemble and clean the float valve. Make sure there are no holes in the floats. Set the two tabs as per BillyT instruction. Make sure floats aren't rubbing on bowl gasket and trim gasket if so. Reassemble and report results back here. All the other mods are to deal with fuel piddling out the vent tubes on the side of the carb.

The two tubes that come our the side of the carb are vent tubes for the float bowl. Beta made the tubes so long they end beneath the float bowl so if fuel gets splashed up into the tube it acts like a siphon. Take a pair of wire cutters and nip a hole in the tube just below the bend but above the float bowl. That stops the siphon. There are other more complex fixes but they work about the same and are more work.

I'm not sure about the '08 but all the 4t I've looked into are 3mm. The part of the clutch fix that helps the cold stick is the removal of excess glue between the "cork" friction pads. I just note that because sometime people say they've done the "clutch fix" and later they admit they only did part of it.

I've found the 10 tooth to be sufficient. The bikes come geared a bit high for road speed in places where they may need to use road segments between sections. 9 tooth is a pretty big step and will wear your chain faster.

Nanny state? In Massachusetts you have to register your bike to ride on your own land. They are sending flocks of environmental police to sanctioned events on private tracks to ticket people. Nice rescue of a pretty bike though.

Might not be a problem if the Mecatechno electric uses the same frame.

Clutch fix pinned to Beta forum. May work for you as it is really a generic issue for any bike with poorly finished plates.

You can certainly tell it has a clutch from the windup for the big hit. Looks real capable. Now comes down to how much and what battery life looks like.

Copy the link and paste it into Google Translate.

https://www.facebook.com/MecatecnoUK/videos/1517944768268728/

http://www.trial-club.com/webzine-trial/actualites/2017/mecatecno-lourdes/

I wonder if they just sopped up the leftover stock of Ossa parts to use as a development platform. Kind of a serendipitous opportunity as it saves a lot of development time.