collyolly

Squirt some 'easy start' or 'Cold start' into the back of the carb. Also try with a pre heated plug.

Footpegs look a bit slippery ! I would think a fabricated bracket with modern mounts to enable grippy, foldable footpegs would be a good mod. Those pegs are probably illegal as far as modern trials are concerned ( ACU rules ) Perhaps fit the pegs slightly further back and lower, together with a set of bars with a higher lift would make the 'cockpit' feel less cramped and the bike would then become more manoeuvreable.

Not sure I understand your situation, you have fixed the shift shaft pin ? but then say it's going to cost $600 to fix up, is that the cost of the cosmetics or having the shift shaft pin re-worked as well. If it runs and rides and it's just the cosmetics of the seat why not fix the seat, bit of fibre glass / plastic welding and your back in business. So it may not look perfect but it's a Trials bike and you may smash it up next time out anyway. I spent around £250 on a lovely paint job on my pre65 fibreglass tank ( got talked into having it done by a mates mate who was a perfectionist ) guess what , second time out I split it in a simple 'off ' , now I have an alloy tank that I painted myself. Fix it for penny's ride and enjoy.

Many thanks for the info, your needle clip is as mine was originally now it's in the middle, but I don't think that would effect the starting do you ? What have you heard or experianced re the after market mixture screw ? Does it just not work correctly. Have you tried a flywheel weight, I had one on a 2009 250 and it made the starting easier but killed the throttle response I seem to remember I ended up reducing the mass by around 50%

v1nn1e, I would have to disagree about the use of your clutch, find the bite point and use it, you will also find so much more time in the section if you use the clutch to control everything.

Yes I have got the red (Jitsi) adjusters and the large capacity float bowl 'bolt' do these have any negative effect ? Nigel you say you moved the needle, but from where to where ? as I can't find out what the standard setting should be. My problem is it's a pig to start and felt very rich off the bottom, I would dearly love it to be a one kick starter rather than 3 or 5. I put it back together as my previous post it feels nice once started but the starting is an issue, any advice . I have been advised to leave the throttle alone when kicking , the previous owner had the tick over turned up, I assume to reduce the tendency to stall. I have the faith, it just needs sorting.

Can you still buy an Ossa ?

There would be a lot of embarressed riders at that event, we have a rider that turns up to our centre trials on an old Fantic and makes the intermediate route look like a main road so Mr Bou on a modified bike would be unstoppable on the sections we consider Expert.

The Dabster, I Keep re-reading your first line and I have to disagree, it's the rider not the bike, you just cannot buy experiance.

Many thanks for the prompt reply, I shall try the needle in the middle position,reset the float as it appears too high and give her another test ride.

Hi all Recently got myself a 2017 250gp, feels like the carburation has been messed with so I am looking for advice on the standard or best revised settings for this model. I think the racing versions over the last couple of years may also have had a Keihin fitted. I am in the U.K. at not much above sea level. I have as follows Keihin PWK, 45 pilot, 125 main, No 3 slide, JJH needle with the clip fitted second groove up from the bottom ie richer mixture than middle groove, also any advice on setting the float height. many thanks

Was Mr Busto dumped or was he poached ? I heard that Vertigo tried to lure Toni a few years ago, so money with them is possibly not a problem.

I bet everyone has had an initial scare, we just all get over it. You probably won't be able to do it again as self preservation takes over, practice practice practice is the way forward especially if you can do it with someone with more experiance than you.

Thanks for posting, brilliant film as usual.

Many thanks Andy, Superb !

OK, I have been away for a month, missed both the biggest trials of the year, pre65 and the 6 days but now I want to catch up and I can't find anything on the pre65 2 day, is it a secret or something ? Searched this site and the general Internet and nothing, is it because I am using an I-pad ? If it is then that's ridiculous. Help please

Perhaps it would be better to ask how to improve a particular aspect of the bike.

Cascoa did not mention removing the key before you try this trick, the idea is to let the two conical surfaces rub against each other and remove the ink you have put on, this shows how good the tapers are. The drive for the flywheel is through the close fitting, tightly torqued up taper. The key is there just to set the timing so your penny key should have worked.

The price will range from £250 for a non runner to possibly £1500 for a really clean example. Problem is there is not a current well supported class for these bikes and if you were to go air cooled mono it would be far easier to get a competitive Yam. You suggest it has problems, why not detail them as that could have a signification effect on value. Just to get an old bike going is costly, pair of tires, cables, brake overhaul and that's before you look at the engine/gearbox you have to remember these bikes are now 35 years old and the sport has moved on.

Here we are in 2019 and that man Rossi just dragged himself round for a fantastic podium finish (second to M.Marquez for the record, Argentina ) bet he wishes he had taken the doubters advice and retired a couple of years ago. Go Rossi the fans just love him, you can here the cheers as he is going round.

I would be surprised if the enduro bike was not running a higher spec of tune than a trials bike, some of the compression ratio also comes from the piston design and the bore and stroke. It's not just about changing the insert, by doing that you may have gone massive on the compression ratio !

Look around for a second hand set of forks, someone will come on here and advise where the best breakers are.

Backfire possibly caused by incorrect ignition timing !

Did the key locate in the slot of the flywheel properly it does not seem to protrude very much and there appears to be a bit of damage to your crankshaft end as if something did not fit. Also I would agree the timing looks to be fully in one direction, not what I would expect to see as a factory setting it's as if someone has tried to soften the engine with the timing.

At least you got it from a dealer, he or you should talk to the importer for best advice.