collyolly

Anyone know where we can find the results ?

Looks like an enjoyable day out ,well done with the photos.

I am afraid something has been lost in translation, billet is just an expression meaning to ‘machine from a solid billet of aluminium’, I am sure the technology exists locally to you you just have to search it out.

Get a billet one made locally, possibly far cheaper than getting a spare from other side of the world

Those side cover mounts look homemade and bolted to the same mounts as in the photo

You will get used to constantly riding the clutch and the brakes, it is the easiest way to get control for your slow riding. The 280 was always seen as the ‘experts’ bike of choice so it could have something to do with its state of tune.

If you have just rebuilt the engine I assume you used oil to lube everything on assembly, this has to be burnt off together with the new oil you are putting in with your fuel. How long did you run it for, probably take a good thrashing to sort it out ! ( no not really on a new engine )

TY175 has a very distinctive exhaust sound, I don’t think it will ever sound like a 250, probably as much to do with the porting as the exhaust system. Don’t worry about the sound just get it out and ride it, some very tricked up versions here in the U.K. and I doubt the exhaust note was a concern.

Get some stainless steel wire and make one.

May be worth contacting GasGas UK ?

Look into the lowering plates, it was suggested by D.C. himself

I have used mine for 15 years to cart around an Ariel HT replica, believe me it weighs more than a Sherpa, you will sort out a technique that works for you. For me it’s front wheel first, then lean the bike over so that when you grab the swing arm ( outside ) and lift with your legs the weight is more central over your lifting hand. You could also consider a set of drop plates these go in between the tow bar and the tow ball then the rack bolts on up to 4” lower on the plates. A pair of plates ( possibly welded together to stop bending) and longer high tensile bolts will be required.

Unless you are a very competent expert rider I would give the 300 a miss, I have a 2017 white framed 250GP and believe me it’s plenty powerful enough. In fact I have lowered the compression with a Stars head and insert and it’s now a fabulous ride. I had a 300 racing before this and it was good fun but very tiring. In my eyes the 2017 GP in white is just the perfect aesthetic, you are right. I have had numerous GasGas machines over the last 20 years and this rumour of lower quality in the later years of production is just plain stupid. I am not going to diss other makes on here but the riders who complain about bits falling off any modern bike are the ones who don’t ride over the obstacle but attempt to ride through it, literally ! Good luck with your search.

Hi rabie Sidcup club still has its practice night up on the calendar for July, also ‘Bike Night’, are these going ahead or is it wait and see ?

Back in the dark ages a class was started for pre65 bikes as there seemed to be a demand for a separate class for these old abandoned machines. It was popular enough to then be broken down into sub classes catering for ‘pre-unit’ big old beasts, ‘unit’ your C15 and cub 4 strokes, class C which were any 2 stroke sewing machines and of course your totally uncompetitive ‘Rigids’. All went well for a number of years then the entries started to drop off, I am talking inter club and centre level, we all know one off trials such as the Scottish pre65 still draw huge entries. Entries dropped off to such a degree that you often found yourself in a class of one or two, so down here in the South East we amalgamated all of the classes, we even included the newly formed twin shock class in this, as they rode the same route and again often only had a few entries, to be honest a well set up pre 65 is a good as a Bultaco etc. The twin shock class mentioned above was again started to try to get the old nails out, it only really gets good support at full national level ie Kia, locally you just don’t see the numbers. We tried the ‘Air cooled mono’ class in the S.East a few years ago and I remember turning up at one of the early championship rounds on my newly acquired Fantic 303 ( well it looked like Steve Saunders bike ) to find I was the only entrant. So if you want a new class you have to find an obvious demarcation in technical terms, ie pre Bultaco era, pre Yamaha / Fantic mono, pre Water cooling but at the moment I can’t see it and I am sure there is not the desire entry wise for it. Back in the good old days we had two classes, Novice and Expert we now have up to 8 or 10 with smaller entries so it’s no surprise class sizes diminish and competition goes away.

If you have had it from new could you not seek advice from the dealer ( If they are open of course ! )

How long have you been riding a trials bike ? Do you have mates with trials bikes and experience or a local club ? Before you get too concerned about changing your bike I suggest you get some advice on setting it up, it may just need the engine tuning and the clutch and brake ‘bite’ points setting up to make it more rideable.

What a joy to keep clean with all of those lumps and bumps with fins on top !

I think you will find that is hard chrome plate, you won’t remove it with ‘wet and dry’ ! Rebuild the bike and try the brake performance before you try modding those hubs.

The above search advice does not work ! Search for ‘250gp’ in the forums section and it will take you straight there, second item listed Cheers

I posted a similar request for info back on 15th June 2019 relating to my Gasgas 250GP that has the same carb. Go into Forums and search ‘Gasgas 250GP carb settings’ and it is on about page 6 of the search or trawl back to June 15. My bike works beautifully now, good luck.

I asked the question last year about the lack of coverage of the Scott it was very obviously not covered as well as previous years but then again I am not up there contributing either ! The world scene is a waste of time, I don’t see how the small sport justifies its existence in its present form. Bring back the days of guys turning up in a Transit van, read the stories of Lampkin ( Martin) , Rathmell, Birkett etc competing at world rounds, it’s all got too sophisticated chasing the mythical interested spectators. I have said before this sport is all about the clubmans participation at grass roots level that’s why we get entries on the day of approaching 150 for a practice trial but struggle to fill 40 places for a centre trial, the sport has moved on its more about lads just riding their bikes at a level they are ‘ safe’ at rather than pushing themselves to compete. So now you end up with a website ( which is brilliant ) that caters for the bike enthusiast rather than pure competitors.

That does not look like a trials bike more an enduro bike, as the steering and foot rest position would not work for trials.

Got to bear in mind this is a U.S. Suzuki not a Beamish, from recent reading the original Suzuki RL ( U.S. market also known as an ‘Exacta’ ) had a much ‘revier’ engine and more relaxed steering hence the Beamish mods when launched in the U.K.

You say the original run time was dire, what’s that 10 minutes, 45 mins ? You then say the new battery was O.K. for its first use, better performance or much longer run time ? You could have a motor fault that’s dragging the battery down, as you say the volts drop to 3.5v when loaded or of course you may just not be fully charging the battery, have you got the ability to measure amps on your meter ( I assume you have one as you are taking readings ) Do you still have the original battery ?