jonnyc21

As stated above back out the adjuster all the way before bleeding or you could try removing the lever completely. If it doesn't work with the lever removed you likely have a problem with the master cylinder.

Not sure why some say it changes things but I am at least able to give a guess. Not all of them have the same lever or the same pivot point location, this could change the stroke and leverage to give it just a touch more throw at the slave side. Best guess but at least its one possible explanation.

I re-read my post and thout... I should have made a comparison comment on my 2017 300 RR and my 2007 4RT 250 and my riding buddies 2017 4RT 260. in short, the differences are subtle between the 300 and the 260 if your not doing things like big hits or drop offs, with the lower end power being the most noticeable difference. And suspension being the second. However the differences in power and suspension become more apparent when riding harder. The diffrence between the 2017 260 and the 2007 250 is power and suspension and is more noticeable unless you have had the suspension update, then it gets more subtle but still more pronounced than the 300 to 260 comparison. hope that helps too. FYI - I LOVE my Montesa 300 RR! Best bike I have ever owned!

I would have to say that my order of best would start with the 300RR's on top, then the 2014 - current 260 Race Replica, next the 2014 - current Standard 260's, and then everything else. However a well setup older bike like my 2007 can still be a very nice ride in comparison to a stock older bike. It has custom setup suspension, fast throttle tube, and is the full power model. I find it much nicer to ride than a couple of 05's I have been on as well as its stock setup, after the updates. The why? 1) The 300's just seem to pull smother off the bottom, the twin map switch helps in the mud, the extra power feels great, and the suspension is just awesome. 2) The Race Replica 260's have the same extra power over the older 250's, and the suspension is a touch nicer in my opinion than the standard, and well they just look cool. 3) Standard 260's have a nicer smother and more power than the older 4RT 250's 4) Custom setup older 4RT 250... well custom to you, who can say anything more than that. 5) Everything else is just well everything else. Hope that helps.

Not sure where to get a Leonelli with the bullet plugs here in the US so I had to cut off the spade plugs and attach bullet plugs to one. After that plugged right into my 07 without issues.

Are you talking modify a 4 Ride into a 4RT? I thought they had different internaly spaced gears 1st to 4th and only 5th was the same, as well as taller suspension and different foot peg mount locations? As for everything else its mostly just tank, fender and other external parts to my understanding.

Maxima MTL 75, or GRO Extreme 75 are known good options. (Not sure witch you can get there) so I would expect the new Repsol 75 is about the same but still can get ELF here, at least for now...

Just because... FIM_Trial_Regulations_2018.04.22 States less than or equal to 300cc max for a 4T in Trial 2. (http://www.fim-live.com/en/sport/regulations-and-documents/trial/) Section: 3 MOTORCYCLES, CLASSES AND OTHER SPECIFICATIONS Sub Section 3.1 Motorcycles and Classes Paragraph: 5. Championships and Capacities: FIM Trial World Championship TrialGP > 250cc / 2T and 4T FIM Trial2 World Championship Trial2 ≤ 250cc / 2T and ≤300cc / 4T FIM Trial125 World Championship Trial125 ≤ 125cc\ FIM Women’s Trial World Championship TrialGP Women ≥ 250cc* / 2T and 4T FIM Women’s Trial2 World Cup Trial2 Women ≤ 250cc / 2T and ≤300cc / 4T

I would guess that most of them have been modified at least a little. I would speculate they all have at least a programmable throttle body on them, fast throttle tubes (white tube instead of stock black), anything removed that isn't critical to a competition (extra wires/harnesses, tubes, tanks, etc.), and have installed the riders preference of brake pads, fluids (engine oil, transmission oil, coolant, etc). Past that there is so many other things that can be done its hard to guess what else they may have gone for...

No I would not say poor rear brakes are common on a 4RT. Both my 07 and my 2017 300RR have great brakes. One of our other group riders has a standard 2017 4RT that is great brakes, my friends 05 has no issues as well. Have seen a few 2014 and 2015's at some events with great performance. I suspect its just a little ware in time or maybe some other edge case issue. Heat and the quench cycle worked great on one set of pads on my 07 that gave me a small bit of trouble when I first changed them but they set in quick.

I will speculate that because of the type of person Toni is he will push through and start winning again soon and it will be behind him faster than it seems. Yes it has affected him, yes this will cause the others to try harder, and it will be a bit more up hill than in the past but with how he is riding I am not convinced he is done just yet. My 2 cents.

I am sure a nice high grade 10w30 like what you have is fine. My 07 250 4RT calls for 10w40 and my 2017 300 RR calls for the 10w30. Running each accordingly without issues...

The affects of the back injury was my first thought when I was seeing the results...

Something that helped me when I didn't have others to ride with was to video myself and then playing that video and play a video of someone doing it correctly and comparing them. Then when I would try again I could try to adjust for the visual difference between the two.

Not sure if you can but if its possible to contact someone in the EU ike https://jbanyeres.com/en/ and see if you can get a 4 Ride cover? I would normally suggest Dennis at http://overlandtrail.biz/, but not sure he can get you 4 Ride parts, though might be worth checking?

I must have missed something... How did that comment = poor?

Again, I disagree... it's riding style and preference in my experience. My 2 cents... Everyone I have known who tries a 4RT (usually mine) coming from a 2T background has found much the same as you have that it's a different riding style so has more grip in one condition and less in others, usually less in the wet moss and mud. Everyone I know who has started on a 4RT has a similar experience when going to 2T. A friend of mine who rides a 4RT and myself have both had more trouble in the wet moss and mud when on a 2T. This is just my friend and I's experience and the experience of others who have tried my Montesa so is a small sample. So could I be mistaken? Sure. Yet it at least would indicate it might be more an how and not a what.

I would guess not... never been out there so wouldn't know though.

I used to live near Seattle WA. Got my 07 when I lived there. Been there on my 300 recently as well, go back often to visit family and friends. So ya, play in and played in the mud and moss plenty on my Montesa's...

I disagree with the comment they suit a very aggressive riding style. I don't ride that way and love my 07 4RT and my 2017 300RR and have no issues riding at a slow and nicely controlled pace. One of my best riding friends has a 4RT and dose very well on his at the lower level (novice I think) with his. I have also been more aggressive on mine and in comparison to the 2T's I have been on it rewards me about the same when I do. Maybe its just my stile of riding, or maybe its the way I set the bike up but what ever it is I find them to be great in every condition I have been in on them. My 2 cents.

Hannon, Everything I have seen indicates that the AlpineStars are the best for support at the shank/sole, they are also some of the better ones for toe protection as well. I hear that the Sidi has good toe protection as well, however I think the AlpineStars is actual the same or better based on what I saw when I compared the Sidi's but the boot size was to small on the Sidi for me try them so I don't know for sure. The boot would be stiffer than a true trials boot but you might consider the sidi discovery rain boots as they are based on the Sidi trial zero boots but a little stiffer for ADV riding. Good luck.

You will want to double check but I believe the Showas for the 4RT's and 315's are a bladder.

Last time I replaced a lead cap it was just a screw on job... I would check the cap you have now and see if it is a screw on type. If so and you have enough extra length on the current lead you should be able to just cut the lead end flat and screw the cap straight on.

rxmx has a point, its been a long time sense I had the issue but worth cracking all of the banjo's one at a time during the process to make sure there isn't captured air in unexpected locations.

That sounds like the throttle position censer is having an issue. As an experiment you might try putting some extra slack in the cable or a spacer between the throttle stop and to prevent it going full open. If that stops the issue what you have is a condition where the censer is going past 100% and the ECU doesn't know how to handle it. The reset process fix's it short term but not permanently if it isn't corrected. If that doesn't fix it let us know so we can come up with some more things to try.