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Sure you had a little blow by. That happened at full throttle with a cold motor. Remember you can do a 250 or a 290. The 250 Rev`s better especially at low elevations.
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Just pull the cracked piece on the pipe up a little to line them back up. Put another bolt in to weld it up. By the way are you missing the spacer between that broken tab and the frame?
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Yes it`s normal, but there is a mod with an rd 400 manifold.
Also replace the small o ring on the nozzle and the o ring on the banjo bolt.
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Water in the fuel? I believe the petcock can be cleaned on the 175.
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It is called a cold seizure. A warm engine might have survived. Remember to always check for the clunk of the slide closing completely when working on any bike.
http://www.shercousa.com/pdfs/sherco_top_end_maintenance_manual.pdf
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The manual has some pretty good basic starting points for your weight. Push hard on the center of the bike (seat) and make sure the front and rear are moving together at the same time. Trials suspension is usually on the soft side.
http://www.gasgas.com/Pages/Technical/trials-suspension-tips.html
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You nicked the piston. If you remove the front pipe, you will probably be able to see the rings are now stuck. If you are lucky you might be able to clean it up. If you have aluminum stuck on the cylinder walls, use muriatic acid with a small brush. It will dissolve the stuck pieces. Keep us posted.
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Dad of Two. I remember a very nice 348 do a wheelie in a section and the front forks pulled away with the tank. Incredibly the fuel line came off the carb about the same time the spark plug cap pulled off the plug. It burst into flames as the head stock broke from the rest of the frame! Was just incredible the timing that happened. That was twenty years ago. By some twist of fate I became the owner of that bike several months ago. I hope to have that bike running again for our vintage events this year!
On the Sherco side of things, my son just bent the crap out of the bash plate on his bike. Waiting for gaskets. I knew this was a problem as the frame bends easily and the plate is very soft. Looks like I`ll be re-bending the skid plate at least once a month. I`ve replaced the Top cylinder mounting bolt 4 times till I got one to hoId. I tried Loctite blue, then red and finally just got an extra long bolt and it held. Damn 18 year old kids thinking they can splatter every rock they see!
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GM auto trax is blue. We used to use it in the Gasser pro motors.
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The replacement case is aluminum. No more corrosion issues. (Or not as many)
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The rev 3 covered 9 years! You might be a little more specific and do you have an owners manual?
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No Martin, I had it right then changed my mind. Thanks for setting me straight!
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Stays in the clutch side. Years ago I made a (thin) steel plate that I attached a puller too. The plate would fit just over the crankshaft (after the flywheel was removed) and the holes would line up with the mag cover bolts.( I used longer bolts) It took 30 or so minutes to make, but it still sits in my tool box today. Made the whole job much easier.
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Actually water is the best coolant. Having a bottle of 100% antifreeze enables the user to mix it for max results year round. 70/30 in the winter and 30/70 in the summer would be the best of both worlds.
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Old Fashioned? It was not till the late 90`s till the manufactures realized how stupid consumers were.(Pay 90% of the price for 50% of the product!) Same with bottled water! I was at the Daytona Supercross in `79 and laughed at all the works water cooled bikes overheating!
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Gotta ask Guy, why do you have what looks to be a USA spark arrestor on the bike? You afraid of fires?
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It looks like a `96 to me. Get a new plug. Is the plug wet or dry. If it`s wet it could be flooded. If it`s dry, I would pour a few ounces of mixed fuel down the plug hole and try to start. Gassers very rarely sheared the key, but if all else fails pull the nag off.
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Ourian is correct. You do not kick them like a normal bike. Smooth and slow and they fire. I don`t have one, but my boss has six of them. I always forget and kick it hard.
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The intake manifold is very weak on the 4t. It could be you have damaged it.
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You need to remove the jets and clean them out. Mainly the small one in the carb body, which is the pilot jet.
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Not all foot pegs are gentle on the soles. I would bet it`s the aftermarket pegs, as a set of Gaerne`s usually last 2-3 years!
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You are trying too much too soon. You have to develop your skill and timing. Trials takes hundreds of hours of practice to get your timing right. Popping the clutch type approach will just result in a crash or broken parts. google Ryan Young training video`s.
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The new Dunlop GP`s hand`s down. And they come on most of the new 2016`s.
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Remove the leg, remove the bottom bolt and take the fork apart through the top nut. The silver piece does unscrew from the leg. The problem is there is a very small set screw held into the threaded part. This needs to be removed or it will strip the threads out. Which they could be already ruined. There is an o`ring that seals this on the leg. Good luck!
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