Being the 2000. You might not have any. Just thinking out loud. The first batch was a right hand mount and later on back to left. Many swingarms were replaced under warranty so maybe no holes at all. Look at another rev 3. At least you have a working bike!
Sits up like a bowl. You do know that the seal holder floats. So to install seals the bottom lip needs to be braced. I use a vice with aluminum jaws, just lightly snug it.
Dad of two is correct. The Aprilia climber had this set-up. It sucked for the clubman owner. By the way I`ve bitched about this since I heard this foolishness.
My logic is the ball fell out, the clutch seemed not to work. Lever was re-adjusted to compensate. Now the clutch M/C is bound up exactly as that`s a five describes.
After looking here.http://www.apexmotosports.com/montesa%20parts%20book/f-6.htm I would not worry about it. I was surprised the Showa had only one spring.
From a dealer perspective Athena seals sell well world wide. Greater number of sales and profit. Almost no matter the brand OEM seals are usually better for the rider.
So what really happened, during the two wide open throttle episodes you blew so much grap out of the dirty exhaust to plug it up. My son`s Raga just did a similar thing two weeks ago. The perforated tube in the silencer broke it`s weld and the packing plugged it up as I tried to clear it out with the motor.
How long have you had the bike and how many hours have you put on it? It sounds like the Bloke you bought it from was being a tight ass and only bought parts you can see. Just because the front is totally worn out does not mean the rest is junk. You can check the chain wear on the rear sprocket. You can visually see how much wear is on the rear sprocket. Trials bikes are run slow. The chain Gods are not going to frown on you if you just replace the c/s sprocket. This logic of sprocket wear should translate to every time you replace the main bearings you rebuild the rod. Ha!
You never stated which bike you have. Did you understand my question about the needle being held in it`s location? That also could have been the cause of the throttle problem in the first place.
If you are inclined, I would pull the clutch plates out for inspection. The reason they say not to use synthetics is the friction material would come off the plate. Gas Gas blamed it on the oil. Funny thing is the same people recommended Moble one for years before this warning came out. Putoline or Maxima light gear oil would work fine. I would just make sure you do not have bad plates.
The earlier rev 3`s Beta had listed the settings for the shock which was a great starting point.(Or just leave it there.) Pushing on the seat, both ends should work in unison.
You can get them a whole lot cheaper. I was just showing the style you need.
http://www.harborfreight.com/large-bearing-separator-3979.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/bearing-separator-and-puller-set-93980.html
This is what you need. http://www.enerpac.com/en/industrial-tools/mechanical-hydraulic-pullers/bhp-series-bearing-puller You really got a 40 year old motor and not replacing mains and seals?
I seem to remember 100mm-110mm on the spring length. It is far more important that the forks and shocks work together, than worrying about sag. Also in trials it is better to be too soft than slightly on the hard side. Push down in the middle at the seat. Both ends need to work exactly together.
