lineaway

Info, What does the plug look like? Has it been sitting a long time? If the rod or bearing is bad, it cares not if it is hot or cold.

An o-ring chain has may applications. One of them is not on a trials bike. They are heavy and power robbing. How many miles do you think you ride every time out? Our bikes usually have low miles , high hours. I usually go through two standard chains per a set of sprockets, which is still cheaper than one o-ring chain. (I know that you learned that was not proper, but our sport is quite different.)

Glad you found it!

He`s likely got soft hands and grips too hard. I always had large calluses. But if I rode all day I would still get them. After a desert race I would have blood all down the front of me. Finally when trials grips came along(They are a tad longer) and just a slight reposition of the hand helped. It was always both thumbs.

Since you had the meter out, did you verify the grounds with the meter? And did you try for spark with the kill switch completely removed?

Tlrmark is spot on with the advice. Usually I would say the burning smoke was good for the bike. This last summer I melted a mid-pipe from oil build up. Too many 5th gear wheelies at high elevation.

I had the same thing yesterday. Changed out an Ajp new style to an old ajp. They made about 4 changes between levers. In the end I had to move the Master cylinder two inches to have a similar feel. Also a tight bushing will give a heavy feel.

Discovered while changing out the lever. It`s his girl friends bike. I see this all the time with trials Dad`s. Takes something to go wrong to realize there is a change in the bikes behavior

That is a rim lock. In the early 90`s the factories tried tubeless in the front, did not work well. So we have tube in front, tubeless in the back!

Have you pulled spark plug cap off and checked cap. Also clip plug wire back to some fresh wire. You need to pull flywheel off to make sure the key did not shear. Also being the bike was apart check the stator plate.

I would say you are close at 281. Reading farther in the post a guy had 291 and had spark. The K might have been a error.

JFC explained it. It is a rubber mount, if you drill it you will have more of a solid mount. Mounts are way cheaper than a radiator.

Make sure you did not lose the new ground. Too many of the new switches are made in china. http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/25835-info-on-how-to-test-the-stator-in-a-rev-3-2003-to-2007/

It`s not fine, the bike broke today but seems to be other issues.

Not much to worry about. Tubeless tires often lose air . Should always check the tire pressure before every ride anyway. As long as it holds for a day or two it will be fine.

The clutch on the pro is a diaphragm type with fingers. You measure from the point below to the end of the finger. I think it is 17mm. Lay the bike on it`s left side, remove the kick starter, the clutch cover bolts, gently pull off the cover (careful of the gasket) tie the cover to the fork tube through the kick start hole. Be careful not to lose the washer on the kick start shaft. Now measure. If it is 16-17.5 it is probably still ok and I wasted your time. If not it needs attention.

I think your looking for a tire. A Dunlop 803 seems to hold the bead better if you are using a tube on a tubeless rim. Just my useless observation. Ha!

Just offering suggestions. I would still have the finger height checked, 15 minute job. The reason is if it is not correct, everything else you try will not work. Good luck

That has always been a problem for the PRO. People with small hands adjust the lever too much. The piston in the master cylinder has to return all the way to work properly. Just the nature of the machine. I have seen many women riders switch brands for this reason.

First, did you check for the free play at the lever? When the finger height becomes lower, the leverage decreases which makes for a harder pull. This happens when the clutch pack swells. Which can happen even with out riding.

The tire will say tubeless on it. Your wheel came tubeless. Chances are someone has put a tube in by now. You still need a tubeless tire to fit the rim. It can be a pain to get the wheel to not leak, so the easy solution was the tube.

It is the one closest to the rear brake pedal.

Wait, I`ll dig for my manual. I want to say it`s the inside. If you pull the wrong one, it could mean a lot more work is in your future!

Usually most buy a new clutch pak. Originally you could buy different thickness of steel plates, but I forget what year there was a change. Some people who have been Gasser riders for awhile are very use to this issue. http://www.gasgas.com/Pages/Technical/Pro/clutch-measurements.html

Does the lever have free play? When the clutch pack gets out of spec (You have to check the finger height) it can become hard. Either the clutch lever was adjusted wrong or it`s time to pull the clutch and bring it back to proper finger height.