lineaway

Wow, I hope you still have the rev3. That`s not going to be cheap!

Yes, you usually hold on the front brake. Not so much rear brake as you need to be able to use the feet.

You need to pull the cylinder and see what shape it is in. At that point you can verify if the rod is good too. As far as parts go, you would have to state your location.

I could ride a MAR in your sections easily, but a Plonker could be a handful! Good Luck. Any way I would try modern perches and levers as they do offer better leverage.

I used the xr200 from motion pro on the original carb myself. Just can not remember what I had to fab to make it work.

It`s regular right hand thread. An air gun is the way to go. Just put a bar through a sprocket hole if you just have too.

Bilks, http://www.trialspartsusa.com/ is not working either? The other posts were Lewisport, this link is the parts importer which has much more info than any other site.

Neither!

The front brake never worked well from new. From a vintage stand point, butchering the front for a lousy ty is the 8 th sin. Problem riders now a days do not understand vintage bike set up. The bikes need to be jetted well, and we ran no idle. With it not having an idle(remember no clutch was used)once the throttle was closed the heavy flywheel kept it chugging along at very slow rpms and only took just a crack of the throttle to start hitting again. With this set up it did not take all that mauch braking to slowly work your way down even the steepest drops. There are several methods to get a brake better, but you need to start off with fresh pads, new cable and a quality lever before anything else.

There is one bearing between the two push rods. The pressure plate goes on the clutch hub only one way. One of the spring towers has a notch and there is a corresponding mark on the pressure plate. All things for a 321 found here. http://www.trialspartsusa.com/

I`ve never cared for torque settings on pinch bolts. But you are better to be too loose than too tight. At the worse the fork tube will move. It is never fun to fix a triple clamp that some gorilla over tightened.

Nice picture for as old as it is. Looks like that answer S/A is holding that thing back from really singing!

Works fine here too.

Trouble with the Gas Gas site is they only show manuals for 2003 and newer.

It takes 650cc. The light gear oil will be fine.

Don`t you just hate it. 5 minute oil change and..........

The needle should be more the middle. What jets are in there? Stock was like 150 and 30. Proper float height is also important.

By the way the T50 is for an 8mm. Can`t remember if it was a 6mm or 8mm.

If a chisel is too easy, if you have to spend money a T-50 torx would stand a better chance removing the drain better than an extractor.

Interesting that at that voltage it does not spin. http://www.gasgas.co...an-96-2000.html

By the way you can go years stored in the original container in a cool, dry place.

I would try to knock it loose with a chisel on the edge.

Don`t tell me you bought a drum!

Shock or Forks? Depending on the shock in question, being mounted other than intended could move the oil to the wrong spot. In other words it might stop working. (Becomes more like a pogo stick.)

Are you running correct tire pressure? 4 and 7. Or Flat? Remember to practice with the wheel turned in either direction. Use foot pressure to regain balance. It takes hours. Might have fun with stopping and restarting the bike from a balanced position.