lineaway

If it was air- cooled, it would not be an issue. It would be risky to loose a cylinder from a coolant leak. But it should work in a pinch. Good Luck.

The most important thing is the front and back work together. In trials you are trying to find traction. Softer is usually better. If you set the suspension up stiff you will be bouncing off the rocks, not in the intended direction of travel.

Are you a `new trials rider`? Static sag is not really the concern.

Dad of two. The head gasket is off from center, which is blocking proper coolant flow. I would not re-jet until fixed.

Only in the western USA would you find a spark arrestor. Change the plug before anything else.

I`ve bled brakes for years without using the syringe. (I have several, but usually don`t bother.) I use a 3 ft long clear hose straight out the nipple over the fender into a container to catch it. The 18inch rise over the fender seems to help draw the air out of the system. In fact I did two Sherco`s this way just yesterday. Just trying to give another way for this young man to get the job done! You just have to keep on eye on the reservoir from going dry and closing the nipple and pumping to check pressure after air escapes. That is why you must use clear hose. Good Luck.

Trials suspension is soft so you can maintain traction. You would have to be over 250 lbs to need 10wt and then you would need to do something with the rear spring. Here is the right fork. The left is similar, just remove the spring for proper measurement. http://www.shercousa.com/pdfs/Sherco_Fork_Oil_Change.pdf

You have to have the forks off to correctly set the levels. You are right about the drain screws, but if you want the forks to work properly they need to be drained, flushed, and pumped of all air to be set correctly.

Beta Techno`s also ran the Paoli`s from `96-`99. Straight out of the Paoli service manual. 360cc per leg, both 5wt. That is with a complete rebuild.(dry) Measurements were with the forks collapsed no spring. Left fork air gap 125mm and 70mm on the right.

It`s just removing the forks. Remember to loosen the top triple clamp first and then loosen the top fork caps before you remove them. Make sure the forks are drained completely. It is good also to flush them to get all the crud out. The hard part is to get the correct amount back in. There was another post about this I`ll try to find for you.

So was the master leaking or did you try to bleed it?

I`d leave the 30 at least during the winter months. But I would fix the head gasket while still new. The coolant flow will be wrong. The holes are smaller in places

Wow, I hope you still have the rev3. That`s not going to be cheap!

Yes, you usually hold on the front brake. Not so much rear brake as you need to be able to use the feet.

You need to pull the cylinder and see what shape it is in. At that point you can verify if the rod is good too. As far as parts go, you would have to state your location.

I could ride a MAR in your sections easily, but a Plonker could be a handful! Good Luck. Any way I would try modern perches and levers as they do offer better leverage.

I used the xr200 from motion pro on the original carb myself. Just can not remember what I had to fab to make it work.

It`s regular right hand thread. An air gun is the way to go. Just put a bar through a sprocket hole if you just have too.

Bilks, http://www.trialspartsusa.com/ is not working either? The other posts were Lewisport, this link is the parts importer which has much more info than any other site.

Neither!

The front brake never worked well from new. From a vintage stand point, butchering the front for a lousy ty is the 8 th sin. Problem riders now a days do not understand vintage bike set up. The bikes need to be jetted well, and we ran no idle. With it not having an idle(remember no clutch was used)once the throttle was closed the heavy flywheel kept it chugging along at very slow rpms and only took just a crack of the throttle to start hitting again. With this set up it did not take all that mauch braking to slowly work your way down even the steepest drops. There are several methods to get a brake better, but you need to start off with fresh pads, new cable and a quality lever before anything else.

There is one bearing between the two push rods. The pressure plate goes on the clutch hub only one way. One of the spring towers has a notch and there is a corresponding mark on the pressure plate. All things for a 321 found here. http://www.trialspartsusa.com/

I`ve never cared for torque settings on pinch bolts. But you are better to be too loose than too tight. At the worse the fork tube will move. It is never fun to fix a triple clamp that some gorilla over tightened.

Nice picture for as old as it is. Looks like that answer S/A is holding that thing back from really singing!

Works fine here too.