29r

Lucky B****** ! Happy Hangover ,

well okay , I have a new Dunlop 801 on me scoot . One Trial on it . Dry and dusty with sharp cut rocks . No cuts and still got sharp edges . Haven't had a chance yet for slippy stuff , so just wondering if anyone has had them a go ? I've cut a some Michies and I have had good luck with IRC (Luck O tha Draw ? ) Seems same price as as Michliens , so don't know if I bought into something ? Anyway . no problems yet , but we'll keep an eye on it .

Anyone tried the Dunlops ?

Hmmm... Ah okay , here goes , I guess to start with is that the design needs lubrication . You've got the plates , mainshaft bush , the clutch baket bearing (that brass ring w/ balls ), pushrod /bush /contact at the adjuster, primary chain/gears and I'll throw in cooling for the electrics . Seems odd that you should have to modify the adjuster . Have to wonder if theres one too many or they are too thick . the basket/sprocket has fiber plates on both sides check it over too . I've found that spring adjustment somewhat critical (btw are they within specs ?) I played with mine until I got the lightest pull while making sure that the pressure plate lifted evenly ( as possible ) adjusting each spring accordingly . Gu'luk

Yep , That's what I'm sayin . For me , it makes no sense to have any mating metal surfaces assembled dry , especially when exposed to the elements . ( I think I remember a similiar discussion on torqueing cyl . head bolts/nuts .) I've had enough trouble removing rusted /corroded/ overtorqued flywheels and loctite would only add to the fun . A point to ponder is that magnets don't like heat . I'm not sayin to slop a bunch a grease in between , just a lite coat , wipe off any excess , assemble , lube threads (loctite acceptable ), torque , take a short ride and then check the torque again . Works for me . BTW , don't use any graphite type lube (i.e. anti-sieze ) anywheres near a set of contact points . It's like a sponge and water ....So I've heard FWIW

One tip to add . Slurp a little valve grinding paste on the taper/s and lap it in a bit . Clean it up and put a light coat of grease on the mating parts , just to prevent corrosion .

Now , Now , Charlie ! Have you neglected your Meds ! Or have you been taking too many ?

Mmmm.....yes ...yes ... Tell us everything . Omit Nothing .

Wut !!? And rid the Bike of that beautiful conical polished hub !? Puh -Leeze !!

What a shame ..... As I watch the Olympics .

Heh ,Heh ! Aye , my comment was in jest to you euro's that drive on the wrong side of the road ! Funny though , that the few I have seen here in the states , the driver is on the left . It would seem best for the driver having the chair on his right taking advantage of the throttle . ( If you know what I mean ? ) Are there rules defining driver/chair sides ?

Only problem I see is that the ' Driver ' is on the 'Wrong ' side !....

Use an Air Wrench , apply a little pressure pulling tube/leg apart while yer at it . I've wadded duct tape on the end of a long (enough ) 3/8" extension ( eerr.. i spose a broom handle 'wood' do ) to apply pressure on the rod to help out , but generally have always got it to come apart / together with air . Once you got it apart you can figger out a proper tool for holding it , if need be .

Hoe'Kay I'm in ! But I want section #3 . Uuhh... If thars a problem on that Sunday , are you gonna be around to sort it out ?

I Dunno , I think Fuji has had enough of having to see the " Doug Lampkin #1 " sticker on his gas tank ! Keep yer fingers crossed !

I agree that scoring these guy's would be a daunting task . However ... I was at #3 Sun. lap 2 and as Fuji entered the section , bobbled in the rocks , went down , CLANKED the left bar on the rocks , picked it up , only to drag a good size rock on the way back down which rolled into a most inopportune position , which the minder without hesitation removed , and he continued on with a 1!!????!! Trials TV was right next to me . I said to him , " Did you get That ! ? " He smiled and pointed at his camera . Not that it matters now .....

Good to here from you Bent ! I can appreciate your plight , I've spent the winter on a **#!! 36 year old , money pit car project ! Being that the weather has finally broke ( and I threatened Al B. that I might just show up ) I have to shift gears and get the Ol' Sherco ready to go ! Anyway , lookin' forward to see'in you at Duluth and I'm sure for more than just a Beer . P.S. Hopefully they won't have quarantine the Porta-Jons as a result of Team Full Monty!

But of course there is ! www.worldroundusa.com Anyways , I was going to check on campsites/lodging available . Haven't decided if I'm riding or driving . ( Tent / Trailer...eerr well maybe a nice cozy room ) Any other Michiganders headed that way? Windfall ?

Hey All , Is there an official Link ?

Yep , Yer on the right track . It's been a while ( long while ), but what yer looking for is equal distance between the actualator finger gizzies and the shift drum pins . Seems like something to look for is that the pins/drum is not cracked ? Anyway, they should be equal , you might lean towards increasing the downside ( on the shifter ) if you feel like experimenting . Another possibility is that you have a bent shift fork which is possible but ... What kind of oil are you running and have you adjusted the clutch ? Maybe the clutch is toast ? I dunno .

Best I can say is " Sumpin' Ain't Right " ! I'm thinkin' there should be locator pins on the side covers and the gasket but I don't know . It does remind of a time ( not related ? )where I popped a clutch apart ( laying on it's side ) put it back together , went to tighten the screws /bolts and busted the head off ! What I figgered was that oil had got into the blind hole and when I went to tighten the bolt , it locked ( hydraulic ) and snapped . I didn't put much pressure on it honest ! Yeah Okay maybe it was ready to go , maybe i'd had too many... I don't think so . Anyway , just somethin' to look out for .

Took tha' words right outta' me mouth !

Yep , I once had the throttle side come off in my hand pulling to a stop at the 2nd section of the day . ( Steel yamaha ) SCAREY ! You could see where it had been cracked around the crossbar weld vs. the fresh break . I'm afraid it's one of those' If it ain't broke , don't fixit' type caveat things . I've always tryed to make note of the radius of the clamps and indexed the clamps so they don't get switched . If the the bars get scored that's where they'll break . Reminds me too that we used to tighten down the clamps evenly until you could just rotate them and then tighten the front ( or was it the back ? ) until it wouldn't move . It allowed the bar to rotate back on impact saving some where and tear . Until now , I haven't thought of this past practice . Wonder if it was a good idea in the first place ? It seems it did work . Another thing is how do you transport your bike ? In the back of a truck or trailer with the suspension bottomed out , held tight with tie downs out on the ends of the bars ? I try not to over do it and use soft straps around the bars , preferably around the lower triple clamp so as to not stress the bars . Anyway , just a couple cents worth .

www.cubsite.com

This snap ring got me thinkin'. I guess I've always installed smooth side out . Can't ever think of a failure because of it , but I got curious and e-mailed a snap ring manufacture and got a reply from the VP ( of all people ) and he said thats there's no difference which way it's installed , the sharp/smooth surface is the result of manufacturing process . So for what it's worth . As far as the wrist pin clips ( I don't know about Harleys ) the biggest mistake is the placement of the opening . The open end has to be straight up or down otherwise the up and down forces distort ( compress ) the clip allowing it pop loose .