jon v8

I buy Venhill universal cable kits from BVM Moto,just bought a load to completely re-cable the little J9 James I've just got. https://bvm-moto.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=1088&search=venhill Good quality kits,with everything I've ever needed in them, for Jap and Brit bikes.

I made my own start and ends cards from red coloured 4mm thick correx board. I used some kindly donated secondhand chainlink linewire cut into 3' lengths. I then wound them around a piece of approx 2" dia steel tube,go around twice.This forms a double loop which you can push the correx board into. I did the same for the way marking arrows and the roadside event arrows.Works a treat,weather proof and best of all dirt cheap.(Cos I was paying...) Something like this; https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Plastic-Correx-Fluted-Outdoor-display-boards-Pack-of-4-Select-size-and-colour/142176675765?var=441243847602&hash=item211a63e7b5:g:kz0AAOSwx2dYJcuu

Bit of a shame for those of us who paid for it.

No, on mine I've stuck it to the vertical return pipe inside the oil tank as its a steel tube inside the ally tank. The idea is that all the returning oil flows down over the magnet,it does seem to work. You can imagine where the pipe goes in above the filter in the pic.

I use one of these on my 350 AJS in the return line along with a magnet that the oil runs over as it returns into the tank; https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PIT-BIKE-INLINE-OIL-FILTER-FOR-50cc-110cc-125cc-140cc-PITBIKES/142237728190?epid=1573555953&hash=item211e077dbe:g:sm4AAOSwUKxYcV0p Works a treat and I drain the tank,clean then refill with fresh oil. Wash the filter and clean the magnet,then run the engine with the return line running into a waste container until the clean oil comes through. Because the engine is in good shape and the tank is newish the oil stays clean for most of the year.As soon as it starts to discolour I change it, I think its working because the engine is still sweet and doesn't use any oil, I rebuilt it in 2011 and its done alot of work since then.

Nice bikes,like the Range Rover too...

Don't think so,the only aftermarket one I saw that never got very far was an aluminium box section version.This was back in 1987/8 at BVM, I think there was an article about it in TMX at the time. I'm suprised there isn't something along those lines though,like Jon Bliss's Cotswold's.Could easily be sold as a kit to add a Chonda copy engine etc.

Good for flicking branches or worst still brambles out of your face,I'd think carefully before removing it.Saying that I do go some pretty stupid places through the woods when looking for new sections to use.

I see your point David,I just like thinking about all the possibilities,the only one I ever did with a trials bike was to put an XT225 engine into a TY175 frame.Its lots of workshop time,especially when I have so many other projects on the go.(As I'm sure you have ! )

Do you mean the silver TS based RL motor,or the later black one ? I was at a trials school with Mick Andrews today,lovely selection of bikes to look at all day... There was a silver engined Beamish,just like the one I rode back in the early 80's.I don't recall ever needing to have the motor out of it. Just one of those bikes that kept going,never went wrong,and I don't remember it feeling heavy or low.Today made me think again about finding another one, just to muddy the waters with all the other projects I have...

I've just dug out the Yamaha "Owners Service Manual" I have for the Ty250n mono's, as you say it does not cover splitting the crankcases. II can't remember how far I took mine apart,(It was back in 1989... But I think I would have treated it just the same as any other vertical split case bike engine I've had apart.One thing I do remember is how strongly built they were,I think much of the engine was the same as the YZ motocross engine. Perhaps a long term Yamaha dealer may have had the full dealer version of the shop manual, they must have had something for the dealers to use,especially for the YZ engines where full strip downs would be more likely. Worth E-mailing a few dealers ? This link to one on Ebay is the same as I have ;http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-Yamaha-TY250-N-Mono-1985-on-Factory-Owners-Shop-Manual-Book-TY-250-59N-/282690215346?epid=1623846152&hash=item41d1a65db2:g:sqsAAOSwDmRZ3gOL

Which company is that ? The 175 and 250 engines are very different,the kickstart shaft is near the top of the gearbox on the 250, near the bottom on the 175.

You can do the same with Falcons,it was one of the reasons why I bought them for my HT5. We are very lucky,I think to have the choice of Falcon or Rockshocks,both can be rebuilt or altered,both have great backup.

A sad loss, he was a gentleman and great rider,who rode through the best years of trials. My condolences to his family and friends.May he rest in peace.

I can't tell you the name/make of the lining material, but Perth Brake Parts should be able to help you,something high friction similar to forklift lings would be good. http://www.perthbrakeparts.com.au/brake-services.php#brake-shoes-rebonding

Most likely he wants to use it on the road.Here in the UK there is a 125cc learner limit. My son has just passed his test up to 500cc and was very disappointed that he couldn't ride his 175 D14 Bantam on learner plates...

I wouldn't panic too much,they aren't too expensive for bits, do you mean the LH thread for the puller is stripped, or the thread that holds the flywheel on ? A decent rebore and a piston isn't too bad ,plus a rod kit, mains,seals and gaskets should sort the engine side. The gearboxes suffer badly when the gear lever gets clouted,bending the shaft, cracking the crankcases and sometimes splitting out the pegs in the selector drum. Most, if not all is repairable and a set of clutch plates if needed will help. They are good motor's, if yours is as bad as the junk I rebuilt, then it will have done a whole heap of work and suffered enormous abuse.

What is actually wrong with the engine ? They can be really knackered,but still repairable. The old banger I have currently runs an engine built of of 3 scrappers,I only used new piston rings and a couple of gaskets to put it together. The crankcases had been welded at least twice before I had to do more ! The selector drum for the gearbox has also had welded repairs. If you are going to bin your engine I'd be interested in it for more "stock".

Do it ! Start a trend, who cares if it's the only one ? They are great fun to ride and if you get it set up well and relearn your riding skills, you can show up the others on their modern bikes. Pre-unit trials bikes may be less capable than mono's, but can be way more satisfying to ride.Tight and twisty sections may not be so good,but if you have muddy stream sections or big hills you will love it,they find grip where often its more difficult on a modern.

Maybe post in the Twinshock section,or look through posts in there ? There are plenty of folk on here with knowledge of the earlier models,so keep looking or ask a specific question.

I can't see from the photo,(If the throttle cable is the twin type,going down to the oil pump) but I think its fairly safe to assume that the original oil pump is no longer in use,most now use premix somewhere around 50-1.

The thing is that if Honda choose to pursue 2t trials bike engines,then they will. They have the backup to do what they want to do.Years ago they developed the CX500 turbo,pretty much because they liked the idea of the challenge of forced induction on a v twin. That was fine on a road bike,but comp stuff is different,luck and personal ability factor just as highly. I admire Honda for what they have done over the years,they have made bikes for a very broad range of folk,for basic transport to high end specialised stuff.There are plenty of their products I'd be very pleased to have in my care - even though my interest is mainly old British junk.

In my world of Pre65 and Twinshock trials most clubs now have a "Gentlemans" route.This is intended for people who want to ride at their own level who are generally senior in years or very much at the novice end of the skill spectrum. It works very well,older riders can keep riding when they would otherwise retire,novice riders can join in without getting out of their comfort zone. How it works is that they just go through the start gate and take any route they like to get to the end card,they also often are only scored on three laps when the rest do four. When I'm marking out I try to ensure that there is an easy path for them to follow if they wish. For novice riders practicing is all well and good,but to really improve you need to compete to stretch your skills/confidence.