jon v8

I ask them what they want their score to be,and stick that down ! Tripods seem to be a law unto themselves, I wouldn't dare to guess what their score should be.

OTF's advice is spot on,I'd go further and suggest you buy a twinshock,ride as many trials as you can and chat to people while there. Many bikes are changing hands,but are never advertised,they are sold amongst riders who natter while waiting to go into a section,or while waiting for their bacon butty and cuppa at the car park field. Or if you see a particular bike you like,ask the owner for first refusal if they ever decide to sell it. The twinshock will keep you going and keep you amongst the right people until the right bike comes along.It took 2 years after asking to be offered my rigid AJS, but it was worth the wait.

I run Miller's Golden Film straight 40 in my AJS, the engine is still clean inside after 6 years of use,the little filter and the magnet do their job well enough.But I change the oil after 6 or 7 trials anyway or as soon as it starts to change colour. My C15 also runs straight 40 in the engine,as filled by Rupert Ratio - he ought to know ! Not sure what you mean by airlocks really, the AJS returns it oil in pulses as its a plunger pump,not a gear pump like the C15 which runs a steady stream up to the headstock.

The Castrol arrows were no problem,Bath Classic paid for them.The attached pic shows what I ended up with,not posh,but they do the job and they were cheap.The Correx board cuts easily with a sharp stanley knife. The,(Kindly donated) fencing wire bends easily around a 2" tube, the double legs mean they can't blow round in the wind and point the wrong way.I think they look OK, they had to be cheap cos I had to pay for them !

Mmm, I was going to,but another forum member on here used a solder pot for the first time... The clutch cable he made failed on the first trial. I decided to carry on with the blow torch.

Forgot to say, I use a small blowtorch to solder the ends on,if you are careful with it you can watch the solder flow through the nipple,making sure it has a good hold. I know other people suggest using a solder pot to fit ends on cables,each to their own - I've yet to have one fail,seeing the solder track through the nipple tells me its got max grip on the cable and nipple.

I buy Venhill universal cable kits from BVM Moto,just bought a load to completely re-cable the little J9 James I've just got. https://bvm-moto.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=1088&search=venhill Good quality kits,with everything I've ever needed in them, for Jap and Brit bikes.

I made my own start and ends cards from red coloured 4mm thick correx board. I used some kindly donated secondhand chainlink linewire cut into 3' lengths. I then wound them around a piece of approx 2" dia steel tube,go around twice.This forms a double loop which you can push the correx board into. I did the same for the way marking arrows and the roadside event arrows.Works a treat,weather proof and best of all dirt cheap.(Cos I was paying...) Something like this; https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Plastic-Correx-Fluted-Outdoor-display-boards-Pack-of-4-Select-size-and-colour/142176675765?var=441243847602&hash=item211a63e7b5:g:kz0AAOSwx2dYJcuu

Bit of a shame for those of us who paid for it.

No, on mine I've stuck it to the vertical return pipe inside the oil tank as its a steel tube inside the ally tank. The idea is that all the returning oil flows down over the magnet,it does seem to work. You can imagine where the pipe goes in above the filter in the pic.

I use one of these on my 350 AJS in the return line along with a magnet that the oil runs over as it returns into the tank; https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PIT-BIKE-INLINE-OIL-FILTER-FOR-50cc-110cc-125cc-140cc-PITBIKES/142237728190?epid=1573555953&hash=item211e077dbe:g:sm4AAOSwUKxYcV0p Works a treat and I drain the tank,clean then refill with fresh oil. Wash the filter and clean the magnet,then run the engine with the return line running into a waste container until the clean oil comes through. Because the engine is in good shape and the tank is newish the oil stays clean for most of the year.As soon as it starts to discolour I change it, I think its working because the engine is still sweet and doesn't use any oil, I rebuilt it in 2011 and its done alot of work since then.

Nice bikes,like the Range Rover too...

Don't think so,the only aftermarket one I saw that never got very far was an aluminium box section version.This was back in 1987/8 at BVM, I think there was an article about it in TMX at the time. I'm suprised there isn't something along those lines though,like Jon Bliss's Cotswold's.Could easily be sold as a kit to add a Chonda copy engine etc.

Good for flicking branches or worst still brambles out of your face,I'd think carefully before removing it.Saying that I do go some pretty stupid places through the woods when looking for new sections to use.

I see your point David,I just like thinking about all the possibilities,the only one I ever did with a trials bike was to put an XT225 engine into a TY175 frame.Its lots of workshop time,especially when I have so many other projects on the go.(As I'm sure you have ! )

Do you mean the silver TS based RL motor,or the later black one ? I was at a trials school with Mick Andrews today,lovely selection of bikes to look at all day... There was a silver engined Beamish,just like the one I rode back in the early 80's.I don't recall ever needing to have the motor out of it. Just one of those bikes that kept going,never went wrong,and I don't remember it feeling heavy or low.Today made me think again about finding another one, just to muddy the waters with all the other projects I have...

I've just dug out the Yamaha "Owners Service Manual" I have for the Ty250n mono's, as you say it does not cover splitting the crankcases. II can't remember how far I took mine apart,(It was back in 1989... But I think I would have treated it just the same as any other vertical split case bike engine I've had apart.One thing I do remember is how strongly built they were,I think much of the engine was the same as the YZ motocross engine. Perhaps a long term Yamaha dealer may have had the full dealer version of the shop manual, they must have had something for the dealers to use,especially for the YZ engines where full strip downs would be more likely. Worth E-mailing a few dealers ? This link to one on Ebay is the same as I have ;http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-Yamaha-TY250-N-Mono-1985-on-Factory-Owners-Shop-Manual-Book-TY-250-59N-/282690215346?epid=1623846152&hash=item41d1a65db2:g:sqsAAOSwDmRZ3gOL

Which company is that ? The 175 and 250 engines are very different,the kickstart shaft is near the top of the gearbox on the 250, near the bottom on the 175.

You can do the same with Falcons,it was one of the reasons why I bought them for my HT5. We are very lucky,I think to have the choice of Falcon or Rockshocks,both can be rebuilt or altered,both have great backup.

A sad loss, he was a gentleman and great rider,who rode through the best years of trials. My condolences to his family and friends.May he rest in peace.

I can't tell you the name/make of the lining material, but Perth Brake Parts should be able to help you,something high friction similar to forklift lings would be good. http://www.perthbrakeparts.com.au/brake-services.php#brake-shoes-rebonding

Most likely he wants to use it on the road.Here in the UK there is a 125cc learner limit. My son has just passed his test up to 500cc and was very disappointed that he couldn't ride his 175 D14 Bantam on learner plates...

I wouldn't panic too much,they aren't too expensive for bits, do you mean the LH thread for the puller is stripped, or the thread that holds the flywheel on ? A decent rebore and a piston isn't too bad ,plus a rod kit, mains,seals and gaskets should sort the engine side. The gearboxes suffer badly when the gear lever gets clouted,bending the shaft, cracking the crankcases and sometimes splitting out the pegs in the selector drum. Most, if not all is repairable and a set of clutch plates if needed will help. They are good motor's, if yours is as bad as the junk I rebuilt, then it will have done a whole heap of work and suffered enormous abuse.