copemech

Yea you are right there, as even though the lectric motor may have good torque an such, the instant application of stored energy is just not there without some flywheel and clutch action. Now this may get by on the the non-stop circuit an such, but would be tough on the sporters! Add to that, what I hear the throttle controllers are stil a big issue, not there yet! Seems conventional potentiometers are lacking here in some way.

Guess he missed tha utube clip of the ratbike vs the CBR!

Notice niether asked wtf David is?

The easiest one!

Best Ican tell, this stuff is getting really affordable. Just ordered a Contour HD 1080p for $120, which is whot, about 80 quid? We shall see how this toy works !!!!!!

She may be the only professionally paid female rider, not sure about all that, but seems others have such things as school, jobs and other things besides riding practice. One thing no doubt, she is agressive in her riding and is not scared of big stuff! She rides well with the boys and can kick some ass!

Whut's rong wit that, David? Just a bit of brane fart!

This certainly is an indication, exactly of what sort I am not sure other than the load imposed in the drive side main bearing under load, as the transmission is not turning! There was an odd bike once that was ridden by Curt Comer, former US champ rider. It had an odd excessive whine noise under load, and the lads messed with it for quite a while out on the field and never got it. You might get on te RYPUSA website and or send a email to Ryan Young and ask if he recalls the fix to that bike of Curt's.

Well your jetting does not sound too far off(as this seems to vary with fuel) might go a bit leaner on the main in the 120 or so range. I presume this thing ran ok at one time on the original jets? Based upon your description of the problem, I am thinking your crankshaft seals may be starting to leak. My bike did similar to what you describe at 2-3 years of age. This seems to be due to ethanol induced fuels. Do you qualify? There is a test you can do which may or may not be conclusive. Find the crankcase vent tube below the carb, pull it out and clean the end, then stick it to your tounge to check for variations in case pressure. There should normally be none, as this is just a vent and only checks the engine side seal. The other seal(mag side) could be sucking air as well and a slight test is to remove the cover and use a short spray with carby cleaner or such to see if there is an rpm change. As we are talking minor leakage here, it may be difficult to detect. As (to me) this possibility seems real as your bike may be approaching 2 years old now and we have seen this issue before, smart money maght be to contact Splatshop for a pair of the "VITON" seals, a magneto puller and a clutch cover gasket along with anything else you might need to just simply "do" them and eliminate that potential problem. It fixed my '07 bike, and that as been well over a year now.

What jets are in it?

Not yet, but I hope Jen can load you and the bike into the truck!

They are just totaly different in design, the '09 being more conventional, and ne easy answer on this other than "buy on condition" as things go. They are both good, and perhaps you can negotiate a bit

Nice bike, Nice vid!!!! Ironic to me, because that could just as easily been shot here in Texas or Oklahoma, ass the terrain so similar!!!!!

See post about ten down called "classified ads"!!!!

Good looking bike! I would tend to disagree with Fellonmelug's statement in whole, as there has never been reports of this, yet at the same time, I think any hard run 125 deserves a fresh piston on occasion as they are highly stressed. Ck for rattles!

That does seem good news for some that may need or want it. Do you have the contact info?

After years if dinking around with the old leftover trotline weights in the shed computers, I had two of the ole XP machines crash last week. I am yet to see if they are recoverable(backup) but it did really p*** me off, so I went off to see just what a budjet could buy. Answer, a nice compact thing about the size of a laptop, yet thicker, with an AMD dual core, Win 7 Home Prem 64 bit, 500 gig drive and 2 gig ram, a burner for $200(wwhich is what, bout 120 pounds?) ant thi thing is fast and works! Officially,it is an E-machines refurb, yet don't let that stop you(checked twice is nice) and from what I see on the market, they are all cheap crap so brand makes little difference. Do I expect ten years out of it, NO! Throw it out if it crashes, not worth fixing once out of warranty! Probably? Can't even build a cheap computer for that nowadays! Seems as things go, if it makes it till the new year it will be fine for a while. Had to shell ou the extra tenner for the usb wireless dongle thing, bitch!

It is a can of BS! Hell yess he sells it! BS is available in different diameters, but a pound of BS costs the same! I estimate 1 can of BS will last the average trials rider about 50 years, yet one might get a few more years out of a pound of BS in the .020 size as compared to the .025! If you are a big BS'er, you might consider the .031 or .040 cans!

I know this sounds dumb, but put the old plug back, it that is all you did. New does not mean good, just a thought!

I am not aware of any currently available.

Sounds like you found a steal! There are a few things on the bikes, some depending upon when built, but here is a clue. Go to www.shercousa.com anreview the tech tips and videos. I cannot seem to get the link to work! You may also want to insure it has a inline filter installed between the outlet of the tank and the pump! Cheers

I think you are almost correct there, within the exception of the fuel screw does not control the progression circuit, as it it is open to demand. Still ultimatly controlled by the pilot jet, as they share the source pilot jet which is the limiting device. Yet a larger pilot does let them both work on throttle chop to mitigate a lean chop condition(as it will suck fuel from both), reguardless of screw setting. On the other hand, too rich a pilot will give a lumpy transition to the needle, as it is unregulated by bthe screw.

As you have added the 1mm head spacer, you are obviously not concerned with ultimate performance of the bike, I would suspect you an average rider more wanting a good bike, yet a bit more mellow. This is where picking up a good std PHBL26 may be just fine for your use, or even an OKO (kiehin copy)26 which has proven sweet for some. Do tell yur thoughts on the 1mm spacer, as itseems there is little feedback on this. Seems most, historically, have reduced the timing a tad to settle things, all to taste!

Good steed! Have a bit of fun, it is good for you!