copemech

Have a look for Motoplat.UK and see if Steve can help you, quick turns reported!

Kerosene or mineral spirits paint thinner both have decent cleaning properties, MS is better and less oily dries quicker! Yet niether have much in the way of lubricating properties, thus could be considered abrasive if no other lube was provided to metal contact parts afterward.. An o-ring chain does not suffer from this as they are sealed by the rings, yet MS may be a bit tougher on them, and you just need to keep tooth contact lubed lightly. MS does not evaporate off quickly like gasoline and may be reused if kept. Just pour it off into another clean container after settling and seal it. Otherwise it can be safely disposed of in waste oil recycling. My small parts wash tank(settles itself) can last for years. Soap and water will still break down and emulsify oily products, and thusly dishwashing detergent actually works if one is out of the no-tiol product.

Was it 20 or 19.5? Cannot recall now. I guess yours is later model with the Kiehin? You gotta hold it at about a 45 degree angle to determine when the seat actually hits the needle(without weight of floats) and measure from bowl surface to float arm. They should basically be parallel!

As we are talking strictly the gearbox and clutch oil here, I cannot think of a reason why it could not be done on the 4T, as the MOTOR oil is separate as I recall. Another thing would be to try 50wt oil in the clutch side, as this may slow clutch reaction due to the float of the thicker oil. I kinda like the really light clutch lever though. It will still go! If you need a full POP on something, you just let the lever fly! No residual pressure. Lever adjust changes as well.

Well it looks like it will work well enough to me, primarily due to the dual vents and the ability for any fuel to run back down, as compared to a down then up loop which can trap fuel in the lower section. The smaller hose you have there does look like the green Tygon F-4040 in the pics. It does discolor over time but stays pretty flexable. Only problem that comes to mind with the arrangement would be in a muddy trial and the ends of the tubes getting packed down near the ends, or a deep water crossing if they are run all the way down near the skidplate. Now is that the OKO? Looks as though you may have had to devise a fitting to tap into the left side vent. The nipple casting was there on my K carb but not drilled. Pics I have seen of the OkO did not show it. Have you tried that 24 yet?

Agree! I want one totally trashed! Best of luck Baldi!

Heard they are going to make those as new! So I will give you $500 if it still runs!

I know this is a stupid reply, but is your new drive EIDE compatable(old style) as the newer drives use a different standard and the older ones are more difficult to find. Am not sure if the connections will interchange, but there is a difference.

At some point, do you really want to know, PA? Re:daughters!

Ok, that section I can get through on a 3, as I cannot balance long enough to stop and look, at it all! Once past the three, I can Slowly move into position untill i feel comfortable again(bad knees you now)! Spectators may take a bar hit!

This reminds me of calling aviation weather in Texas!

Well Neo, you may well have a good arrangement here, although I have not quite totally envisioned what you have done. Main point being that most folks have no idea just how critical this is. Fact is that I never found a hose that would work on the right side with a K carb as the relation to the muff was just too close on my bikes. The left vent had to be drilled out in order to accept any type of hose that did not pinch off due to the radius of the bend. Your CRAP in the bowl still explains a lot, and once again one is often surprised at what he finds, if he is lucky enough to ever see it! I admit that there have been times I never actually found anything! More than not!

At least you spent some money on something! Are we BOTH doing long term Sherco testin' ? Ryan needs to sell some fenders!

Seems several have made this comment on the later model bikes. Unfortunatly, I do not have all the answers. Some, myself included, just run the bike with two opposing springs out of the clutch. Makes the lever pull much lighter, but the response almost too floaty, thus the need to go to a thinner fluid like ATF. Still a bit of a tradeoff it seems, and takes some adjustment. Depends upon your riding style, some like it and some do not. Costs little to try though!

Does seem a bit of a mystery, yet I still would run an inline filter, as that screen in the tank is questionable with relation to what it would take to plug the pilot jet? Secondly, the up, over and down theory on those vent tubes just does not work for me. You see, if ANY fluid is caught in the tube, almost like a bubble in a straw, it causes an imbalance in bowl pressure relative to the ambient. It is sensitive beyond belief! This is the reason I doubt you will see any hoses on any PRO bikes, as they would even prefer to clean the carb as daily maintenance over the difficulty the hoses can cause. Another reason why dual vents offer an advantage, but I believe Sherco removed the hoses on them from the factory in later years, due to problems. Best left off! Although I still run two very short tubes just for deflectors.

Well enough then if you are satisfied with it. Points being, my fuel has changed over time neccessitating an adjustment! And a good cleaning for maintenance is still advisable, as you may find more in there than you expect!

If coming off a Rev 250, the Sherco is much more perky and light, sweet bike, price sounds right!

Sounds like what you found could be IT, yet not sure where IT came from. As there are only two basic ways IN to the bowl, fuel supply or vents, and even folks with dellortos (very good banjo screen) get stuff in there, so what does that tell you(those vents BREATH). I would not run the K carb without an inline filter, yet just how good they are I am unsure. I do not know what fuel hose you are useing, but the factory rubber never lasted for me, always split, and for the last 5 or so years I have run the green TYGON hose which seems to last a couple years, and it is pliant enough to adapt from the 3/16 tank outlet to a 1/4 fuel filter. This flexability does not allow it to hit the muffler, as it will not take the temps, but with a careful loop in the routing , this has never been an issue.

These things are difficult to quantify long distance, althou there is a "normal" rattle in this area due to primary gears and such. This sound will change when the clutch is pulled in. And it will also be worse using thinner oils like ATF. Still, some is normal!

Bowl venting is critical if this is a K or OKO , as I have never found the right vent only to be sufficient! Well, all I can suggest is to break the carb over a clean and dry 2L clear plastic jug that has been opened , cleaned and dried, then wait for what settles in the bottom. Small grit can also be seen as a reflection as things are poured off. If your fuel is alcohol induced, water will be absorbed up to the limits of absorbtion, then the water/ alcohol mix will stratify in the bowl, leaving you with a water/alcohol mix that you are running on, which can be quite lean. Further transmission from your collection tub into a 100ml or so vial may be more revealing. You need to look closely at this stuff. If you want to test for the alcohol content of your fuel, simply take a calibrated vial, add 50% fuel, then 50% water, shake it, if it is all gas, then the % should not change as things settle, if the ratio changes, it will tell the alcohol volume. Compression is probably around 10:1 or better. So with a good kick and throttle open, one would suggest a reading that was near 10 times your barometric pressure, or around 140-150 psi if you are within norm.

Good luck to him! Did they teach him how to fall down in Hollywood style? You gotta maintain your IMAGE kid! Show some TEETH! Are you listening Patrick?

It's the MX bikes that got me a couple broke tail bones and some crammed disc's in the lower back, I still pay for those! The Beer helps!

Maybe you should have consulted the wife on this one?

If the pedal is still soft, there must be air somewhere. I would prepare a syringe with hose, bleed the air and attach to the bleedre nipple purging all air before opening the nipple, then crack the line at the top of MC and push fluid backwards through the line to remove any air, then cap it, close the bleeder and see if it firms up. M2C