copemech

Clean the carb and ck the float level and needle seat for trash. I think an inline filter is needed on these things. It really should not die when hopping a bit unless the float level is too high for some reason. Be sure to tilt the carby at a 45 degree angle when checking it, as level will throw it off a bit due to the float weight... The needle valve should just close(toutch) at the spec height, which is 19mm as I recall. Hope that helps,

The 250's just tend to be a bit more forgiving, I know several big boys that ride stock suspension, yet you may need to twist up the rear spring a bit! Actually, some get along quite well on 200's! Very easy to ride!

In thinking about this, I would be more concerned with the verticle clearance, and if little to none, would discount the in and out movement. I am not sure if the crank will not possibly slide in the bearings just a bit, and since the bearings act to keep things centered up, there may be some tolerance there. And as long as these turn smoothly, well could last a long time. If there was dirt in the carb inlet, the intake skirt of the piston couuld have some wear. I think it would be worth checking, as the skirt to wall clearance should be tight, like .001 in. or so.

Biff is now out of TT days! Oh Crap! I don't even want to know how you got that bike in that position!

You seem to have it! Nothing wrong with either, just different! I tend to recommend a good 250cc as a starter! reguardless of prior experience!

I cannot see anything dysfuntional there. Put the head on a lapping pate(piece of glass) on a level surface(kitchen table) and rub it around a bit on some 400 grit wet paper! This will insure it is flat, yet the o- rings must do the sealing, so get new ones. Clean up the top of the cylender with a bit of scotchbrite or something to insure you have a good clean sealing surface. You really need to get it back together and run the crap out of it to see what happens. Looke like you need to runtheshietofit to get some heat in the motor from the carbon buildup! Hell, your muff may be plugged with that crap! It may need a douche!

Do you not have to consider hydrogen embrittlement with the plating process?

Where did Ducky go?

Neo, These things OKO are intresting, I have always thought of these things in TWO ways, firstly, the Jap style carbs are better mixing devices, secondly, the Dellorto is the best $15 carb that ever came out of europe! It just works! And a good one properly set can work very well. Then there is that flat slide vs round issue? well? I have an idea that the 5mm spacer for the Sherco can be put on a belt sander to achieve a proper bevell, yet the holes for the screws may require some angle put to them. If you could get the thing off the case it would be better allround installation. You know, this whole thins is just not something I would normally recommend for your average kid to do! Just cram the friggin 28 in there, it will be fine! NOT! I have a dandy of a coupling hose from carb to airbox that worked well on the 2.9. It is a reinforced intake hose for small aircraft that fits perfectly and is soo tight on the carb inlet requires no clamp really, once you get it on the thing. They are inexpensive and far better than some muck of radiator hose. As purely an experiment, I would be interisted to find your results of testing the 24mm OKO on your 2.5? I sort of think it would run just fine, with less agression than the others. Good for many, specially the 2.9 riders that like things a bit more toned down.

Don tell me allthat crap, as I have been gutted already when R2W left already with all the "sex and trials" links!

No, actually I think Neo may be on to something that I just never had a chance to do with the OKO 24 on the 125's, would probably run well for average rider. To me, the primary issue with the Kiehin on the 125 is the physical size, as the inlet is closer to the case than a 2.5/2.9 and seems to at least require(i have heard) a beveled intake spacer to get enough angle for clearance of the bowl. On the OKO(copy) this may or may not be exactly the same. The second issue seems to be simple overkillin that the 125 cannot ingest all that the 28mm carb is able to supply. Even on the 2.9, the bowl wants to set and rub on the case, even with a bit of grinding for clearance. Although it will work, I just do not like it. Add the fact that I just do not really need better throttle response or more power on the 2.9, the Kiehin has been shelved for some time now. Things being what they are, I would not be surprized if the 24mm OKO did not work well on the 2.5/2.9 as an actual power limiting device! Yet still delivering smooth power off the bottom? Bottom line, if they were not such a pain to fit, tune and test, I may have done a lot more with them, but the time proven Dellorto well tuned has sufficed, and I still think may be less aggressive off the bottom, mind you, a far fetch from what may be desired on the 125 that this discussion was about. As a side note, I did run the 2.5/2.9 header on the 125 I had several years ago. Larger pipe at the inlet, but still really could not tell much difference, just replaced the dented one! Some said they produced more top end, but?

If you pay the pittance and become a TC "member" you can add properly sized pics directly to your post and do not have to work around a hosting site! 1000K limit, which is fine for most.

Agreed, love it! I gotta see if I can get one of them for the D-40! I know it will require a larger bum bag, or another one just for it! Tradeoff though, I hate feeling like too much of a pack mule trying to ride with the gear, and still protect it in the case of a fall. Another reason I cannot really support the added flash units, must rely upon ambient light and short range built in flash if needed. Seems that Sigma really works!

So are you back on the Sherco/ MRS bike?

I don't think we had any US riders last year, and I got the only T-shirt imported to the US! The cost of transporting bikes is just nuts! Did anyone other than Ish bring one back?

Yep, there is a fellow in AU that gets new rims, sends them to the specialty shop to do the anodising in the color of choice, then delivers them to your door! Assembles them and curses a lot! He Is on this site, think his name is Stevo or summat!

Sweet, must hav some good glass! Specs?

Just ride in 2nd, or 3rd, same effect, the motor does not care till you REALLY open the throttle!

Some of us were afraid the same had happened with the Sherco and Gassers when we seen the fresh PINK on your bike! Friggin scarey! Easy to find the butthole though, on top! Ha!

Yes, it has been done. But for a number of reasons they are a pain in the butt! Add Overkill! Far as I know, Paxau still does not run or recommend them. Spend your money on some V-force reeds or something. Put a new set of rings in to keep it fresh if you run it hard. Better off!

Great fun! We did have some vintage action going on around here at one time, and I really enjoyed just going out to ride(on the Mod bike) noncomp just to have a ride and relax a bit with buddies! Invite them all, as it is great practice for the kids and novice riders and much less pressure on the casual riders! Like YOU!

Seems his bars need a bit more foreward, and he missed the better pary of his kicker rock, will never make the 2M splatter on that lump!

Dan is correct in "jumping" the thermo switch, but don't run out and but a fan motor quite yet. Test the motor with 12V applied to the fan leads directly. If it runs, you could have a rectifier or regulator problem, less costly than a fan motor! Just FYI!

Even at 41 and 412, as compared to the 82 and 620 specs, the numbers only sound scuwed, possibly by the meter! Doubt both coils would fail at the same time. If you have had luck with the bar switch off, I would test it in action again. I hate those things! To be honest, I would do away with the map switch, myself. Cannot tell much difference anyway.