copemech

If that is the case, I would think somewhere along the lines of either a gear that is supposed to rotate freely untill engaged has siezed on its shaft, or a shift fork is just bent or broken. Basically, you cannot have two sets of mismatched gears engaged at once, or it will not turn. Either way, sounds as though a split of the cases is in order.

They said it was 17f at the trials camp last night and this morning. I would not know, as I slept in! That is just too cold for me! I had a bad experience once, when all the beer I had drunk froze on the ground just outside the trailer door! Here is the basic referance pic!Timing ref It illustrates a setting 4mm counter of the std setting at the right leading edge of the casting web. You can see the factory mark on the plate. And you may judge how things should basically look, so without even any measures, you can judge by eye within a mm or two, whick is generally sufficient. I do not run them more than about 6mm slow of the factory setting, as they seem to run awkwardly and may develop other troubles.

Sounds like a good start then, fine tuning to taste is all it takes! You just have to spend some quality time and experiment around a bit!

7 yr old doing 100ft wheelies!

Extra base gaskets up to two additional, will soften the power a bit and reduce the compression a bit as well. I have nver done it, never need to really. Stock carb is fine. Seems I recall there were a few soft kickstart levers in a batch. Really makes things awkward when bent, making proper kicking very difficult. I would be interisted in the evaluation of your knowledgable friend or dealer, just to rate how out of wack this thing really is. There is really little difference in starting a 250, either. I have had both. It was cold here today, but mine started on the 4th kick, in the tennis shoes!

Well , seems this may be the type of stuff neccessary to reslove the issue, coil pack first. What year is the bike?

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Went WAY over my head!

Neo, my '07 did not have the half link, yet started out near half on the adjusters. I changed to the slightly larger Jitsie snailcams just after, and they are still only halfway after two years of my use, although this year has seen light usage. They still seem to work well. I wonder if the Monts are still on them, and at what price?

Sounds severe, so A trip to your dealer for evaluation may be in order, or a knoledgeable buddy!

We can only presume that the no spark condition does exhist, and a sheared key may not prevent the spark, it just sparks at the wrong time usually. Depends upon where it is at I think. After all the basics though, it does get more involved. The most common reports over the years have been from failed coil units and stators, yet you cannot overlook the basics. These things may require either a buddys bike with some working parts to try, or a good shop to do the same.

CHECK TO SEE THERE IS A GOOD EARTH CONNECTION FROM IGNITION COIL BOX TO THE FRAME.

I rode a mates '08 bike as we exchanged a while back. The Beta is a bit punchy off the bottom, and he even liked my de-tuned Sherco better, which is somewhat unusual I thought! It still has a pretty nasty mid- range hit to it. The Beta is very strong yet still smooth and chugs well. The slow throttle will help, yet I might set the timing back just a bit(2-4mm) and look into the Boyesens reeds for a bit more polish. Not for all you see, but it is a sweet bike. M2C

Yes, they were listid in the Regina website last I checked, yet I cannot yet find them other than the Sherco part number, and those do seem pricey!

Ok, just to get you started in this Brave New World! A new sparkie, mind you, even at best it is difficult to see, so take into the shed! If no luck, try disconnecting the kill switch! Is it standard factory or just a button?

As I have no way of experiencing what you are describing, all I can tell you as a baseline is that most all bikes will offer some kickback at times, as they all normally fire before TDC. If you are a bit limp on the boot, you may expect it! I run the 2.9 about 5-6mm slow(counter) on the backing plate from the stock tick mark, never fully retarded. Seems to work fine and minimize the kickback. Other things like good fuel and sparkies come to mind, what are you running?

Exactly WHY? Ohhhhh, but you "Must" be One with the bike! You see if you become separated----------!

Requires the entire assembly, yet nothing wrong with that! Will be fine as everything else the same.

You cannot knock the arrangement really! Good to have support team members doing their things! Many times, just having another bike 'round the yard for spares can make or break the day! I seen little from TRW as Alexz ren the course at TTC last year, he was pretty much on his own on the loop it seemed! I thought it a bit odd myself? I could be totally wrong here though, yet just going on what i seen. We do need a new fresh piccy from Dabster! Maybe going over a rock or something!

Stick a Fork in it!

Looks like Geoff Aaron pretty sure. Not near as sure you can hand off the bars in that position unless you have the velcro pants!

You just have to turn things upside down, like bars and rear support tripod! Agree the top looks very usable! You see, if the bottom roller balls have siezed due to water, this will certainly pit and score them. After that, it is just a matter of time usually, as they will beat themselves to death on the pitting like a cobbstone! The time only depends upon the severity and the stress imposed thereafter! And it varies.

This is commonly known as the "Detriot" symptom! As they made the ones who knew retire! And the new designers? Well, they are really good on computers, you know!

There is a science to crashing it seems! Afew things come to mind! Get off on the uphill side before things really get bad! Fook the bike, I'll fix it later! PULL CLUTCH, DUMMY! Throw bike AWAY from you! Lay it down NOW, before it takes me off the cliff! Just, a few snippets! Which is what Addicts better half thinks about the fingers!

I have heard this term before, gives a wierd impression to me, as you certainly do not want to be rigid on the bike! Quite the opposite! As an add to Ralphy's thought and impression, fore and aft, staying centered over the bike and letting it work under you!