copemech

Been my motto since I got the new bifocals!

Just seen this question, sorry. I think it could make a difference depending upon if you are talking high speed trail running or constant speeds for long duration. As example, I have never seen problems with riders running hard on a trials loop of long duration, but they are on and off the gas, mid range average, so 70-80:1 seems sufficient. Events with road work and constant mid to high operation, I might tend to go nearer 50:1 ratio, still letting things rest a bit at times. The cooling systems are limited as well, you know, not built as a road racer or long WOT operator! Use discretion and common sense here!

I'm sending him your email addy and phone number for Chrimbo!

If you have something of that vintage, feel free to use it! #!

Steve, I do not dispute your logic here, yet the track record on these things is not good. Based upon my own experience, and the reports of others, I might estimate the lifespan of the stock seals at 2-3 years when using pumpgas(which is mostly alcohol induced nowadays, thanks to our govners). It appears they will suck air(or oil) right through the bearings as well, which cannot be good for them. Failure modes vary, as they can blow out trans lube as well. So as far as not overlooking fundamentals goes, this now becomes a fundamental! Not a question of if, but when! Current recco is the Viton replacements from Splatshop. Get yourself some!

Crank seals would be suspect.

Should pull out no problem.

Paul wins the self induced class!

Once again, Splat Chris has the measures, however as I recall, the new bikes use a slightly wider mount on top, so likely the shock would fit but may need different bushes for the top rose joint. Good thing about the ohlins are spring availability in the ranges, so one could carry the shock to a newer bike later.

Insure everything works properly, then put the best rider you can find on top!

If the fan motor is not running on the bike, even with the thermo switch wires jumped together, yet runs normally when connected to a 12V external source, you may ck the voltage and such, but the rectifier is suspect. The fan will only run with rectified DC current supplied.

The stock shock did change length slightly in "06 or so as I recall, yet they should interchange with no problem. The "06 was problematic though, so stay away from them. Anything else through "09 should work fine. Splatshop Chris has the exact numbers, some years fit with the body down, some will only fit with the body up, depending upon year. Makes no difference in operation.

Here

These bikes did come from factory with more than one gasket for squish setting, however I doubt that would be a starting issue. Not all bikes had them, as they are a select fit thing and the second gasket comes in different thicknesses. Giving the carb a good clean is essential, however I am a bit concerned about the plug(verify type) and gap issue as this can be critical. There is good reason for this, too much to get into here, yet just another fundamental that needs to be established. I cannot recall how they come set, but i do think it was too wide. As Dom says, basics first! However, if you are sure about the rest, you would not need to tear it back down.

Mitch, read the whole thread! Yes, the top end has been off! Next question to Ben, ARE YOU LOOSING COOLANT? I do not believe we have positively established this after the pump repair. Next thought, if head gasket leak is suspected, run the bike with radiator cap off, fully topped with water, and inspect for unusual bubbles developing within the cooling system that continue to occur. This would be an indication, as well as abnormal pressurization of the coolant hoses after startup. But this may be difficult to tell by feel, as they are thick.

Ralphy makes good points here, primarily being the fact that you really do not want anything that will attract dirt, or turn it to an abrasive sludge compound. Clean is best! Now when I state I do use a tad of oil, it is not really oil. What I have been using of late has been the Tri-Flow, with PTFE. Little residue after evaporation. What I want is the remainder, the PTFE, as it is slick. Another DRY lube would be something like LPS1 and or Graphite. Even dry can be bad with dirt entry, can eat things up quickly and put them in a sorry state. Another point of interist on the cable thing is where the cable makes its way through an elbow on the top of the carb on many bikes. This is a direct metal to metal contact point and the cable will likely wear a groove into the metal tube. As this end is generally well protected from dirt, a bit of lube of some sort cannot help but prevent wear from totally dry operation. Do as you like, yet major point here is the fact these things do require attention periodically.

Because I still like you guys, and you need all the help you can get!

That is sweet, Dan!!! Is it a 250?

Couple of thoughts. Did you have the carb off? Might give it a good cleaning after it has set a bit, or been upset. What plug and what gap is it set to. Standard plug, BP5ES needs a .05-0.6mm setting. Check for consistant spark, although it is difficult to see in the daylight.

Debate this all you like, as I am no springologist, yet I can tell you a couple things. The spring rates are set by the carb manufacturer. There are differences. As example, I find the rate on my new bike with a standard dellorto to be somewhat greater than my old bike with the Oko or Kiehin installed. Not of great importance, yet it is there, which is why I may decide to soften it a bit. The rate of the spring is a constant throughout its length and increases with compression. In a captured spring with a lot of preload such as this, shortening does reduce the total force of the spring at a given distance traveled as you have reduced the preload and the total force required.. We are talking force here, not smoothness. For smoothness, the majority of the other tips apply. I have considered the bearing ends such as the Hebo that Axulsuv refers to, and they look good on paper. Question here is, does the endcap rotate with the throttle? If so, I find that a big turn off, as one of the things I dislike is a throttle that will get pinned in a crash, as it what happens with a standard throttle and grip exposed to the ground with a standard grip. I prefer a fixed bar end to hopefully prevent this, and it has worked soo far. Yes, I do run a bit of oil on the tube, and yes dirt may get in, but not for long as this is just another occasional cleaning based upon conditions and any indication of roughness and BEFORE damage occurs to the bars and such. My tolerances on setup are very tight to prevent this dirt entry. As we are more dry here, dust is more the issue. The pic will show about 2mm clearance from the grip to the bar end. What it does not show is the 1mm clearance to the actual throttle tube. Given that these components are new, they work very smoothly, and will for a long time if taken care of.

Ben, none of this is approved, it is all experimental to individual taste and results. The factory spring is made to do the job in all but the worst cases of contamination. As an example, some pro riders may choose to do things like this, yet it is also common for them to clean carb and airbox after every ride! The maintenance becomes more critical you see, as to Not have issues. If indeed you are bound to try this, then take all to heed! The springs are wound with a finish wind on the ends, not sure the name for this, but the last wrap of spring is only half effective because it is wound flat. So to count, start at the end, go one turn, then two, and that is where you snip the spring. The spring will no longer have the flatwound end, thus I believe the (shop) end should go towards the top as to not interfere with anything. Two rungs will make a little difference, three will make more. I would not go beyond that. Add, I do not support any of this nonsense! (although I may yet do my own on the new bike when I get around to it)

Which bike and carb? Are you talking Lighter or Smoother? A bearing will not neccessarily make it lighter, as you gotta trim off 2-3 rungs off the return spring to do that. Carefull though, as it is less likely to return if any dirt sticks it!

Just run the throttle behind the front brake(between the brake and clutch) was all, affords a bit of extra protection as compared to hanging out front alone. Yea, back off just enough no not to effect idle and such on left turns. This is normal, as for whatever reason, the cable has to bend a bit more which takes up slack.

Id like to see that!

Looke like that skidplate has been hit more times than Joe Lewis! No wonder things cracked! Might have taken to the press for a bit of straightening! Looke good though! Just a suggestion, I allways run the throttle cable to the inside of the front brake tube(hose). Not perfect, but the front brake tube does give the throttle cable a bit of shielding against limbs and brush snagging the cable and yanking it at the least oppertune moment!