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If any one is looking for gaskets for a GasGas Contact , TX ,TXT pre PRO motor I just came across a NOS clutch casing gasket available on ebay UK the item # is 145867271780 the seller is First Racing , Norman Watt Motorcycles 151 Saintfield Rd BT27 6UG.

@miner Another thing you could look at is to check your air gap between the flywheel and the pick up it should be approx 0.6mm . Standard carb needle clip position is 3rd down from top. if you have a different setting I would try it standard. Fuel screw is 3 to 3.5 turns out usually.

@miner The timing is fixed on the pro the woodruff key gives the position on the crank and the pick up fixing plate gives no adjustment nor the stator plate. As you had this problem when you had the old ignition system fitted and now the brand new system is giving you similar results it may be better to look at things you did not replace, maybe try a different carburettor and also decoke the head combustion chamber and crown of the piston then polish it to a mirror finish. Make sure your coolant hose from the cylinder head to the top of the radiator is not touching the bottom of the fuel tank and set your cooling fan to run permanently when the ambient temperature is 40 C etc by putting a thick copper wire from the earthing bolt at the top of the frame on the exhaust side then put a bullet connector of the correct size on that wire and plug it to the female ended wire that comes off the little black box that is held onto the fan shroud by a small pozi drive screw. That is of course if you are running a standard 2007 model position thermostat fitted to the top right hand head of the rad and situated at the front side of the rad facing toward the front forks , also check your carbs float arms are set parallel to the edge of the carb body so that you have plenty of fuel in the bowl. There is still something that needs changing on your set up if you still have problems. starting and also kicking back , coked up piston and combustion chamber? . After all this buying a new ignition set up you have to keep going , it cannot be much of a big problem to solve the issue now. Regards Alan.

It does not need to be a UK parts schematic , find the part you want at thehellteam in the available parts lists and then find the relevant part number then phone John Shirts or any trials specialist shop in the UK and give them the part number and you may get lucky they may just have some old stock tucked away collecting dust or if you cannot find it in the UK look in Spain or France or wherever like every one else does when they own a bike that has been out of production for 20 years. It is possible to make your own gaskets as gasket material is available to buy in sheet form for cutting with a scalpel and O rings are freely available also .Failing that your only option is to buy a newer bike that has parts that are still available.

GasGas is no longer really GasGas the people who started the company no longer own it and the current owner KTM have no real interest in what went before they took over . Trials bike manufacturers in general usually have a cycle of around 10 years of servicing past models before parts start to go to the no longer available book due to a lack of demand. Parts books are still available luckily owing to the efforts of www.thehellteam.com a trials specialist , put Tech support GasGas Info into your search engine and you will get lots of information for most GasGas Trial bikes.

@thesaint your picture of the gold raga is of a later version than the 2009 about a 2011. The 2009 Raga should have unless changed by previous owners magnesium engine cases and clutch cover and a carbon fibre end casing affixed to the exhaust mid box all for quite a reduction in weight probably about 2 kg that is about the only major differences. The 2012 Racing has a revised swing arm linkage ratio and the rear end of the frame that supports the shock is revised to improve stiffness/strength Dougie Lampkin was involved in the development at this time if I am correct and so this is a plus for the 2012 bike , there are no magnesium bits on the racing AFAIK apart from this there is not much of a difference between the two that many people would really notice when riding . The 2012 racing may have Formula made brake master cylinders and calipers in place of the usual AJP/BRAKTEC , these were considered to be crap at the time oddly in my experience of a Formula front brake i had on a bike it was the best brake I ever had. The well admired TECH forks that are revered at present are made by Formula. If you do end up with Formula brakes then finding spare parts for them will probably be difficult and costly. That is about it really only other thing I can think of is the Airbox and rear mudguard which are completely different .

@hrc450 optimism is a cruel mistress , It was knocked out of me years ago , giving up now will make your recovery much shorter Terry , get well soon.

@whiskey I forgot to say If you have a 28mm KEIHIN carb then you can calm it a bit by using the standard Dellorto PHBL26 BS or a cheap PWK type 24mm carb.

@whiskey I think you will have to make one yourself if you want one for a 125 with a Kokusan ignition John Shirts trialenduodirect.com used to sell flywheel weights for 125/200cc and the 225 but all that stuff is long over being supported . There is a thread on here from years ago that has the technical drawings to produce your own for a 125/200 running I think a Kokusan flywheel. The weight you need is around 320 g for a 125 interesting that a 200 needs approx 800 g. If I were you I would leave it without one and put a 24mm carburettor on it instead and also make sure your throttle tube is a black slow action one and not the fast action white one . Change the throttle to black if you have the white one and try that first. Putting a fly wheel weight on a 125 PRO makes it less fun, they are more suited to the 200/225 bikes IMO Good luck with whatever you do.

It used to be very common for people to position their shifter in a more upward position about 30 years ago, do what you like with the position of the shifter its a personal thing and if it works for you then it is a good change.

@Rosscorob I forgot to mention handle bar position forwards in the clamps makes quite a difference when executing modern trials techniques. Experimentation is the obvious way to find your ideal setting for techniques.

@Rosscorob I would say that to improve your technical skills it is less important which make of bike you choose and more important to set up the bikes suspension and brakes to make it as easy as possible to execute the technical skills you wish to have. here are some ways to help any bike. 1 bleed your brakes hydraulic system well and make sure the levers are adjusted both front brake and rear brake well to your liking so that you can apply them easily , make sure there is no sloppy movement in the levers ie shim them at the pins so they do not move up and down/ sideways too much where they pivot . 2 use only GALFER RED TRIAL TOP brake pads as they brake straight out of the packet no bedding in needed . You MUST take care not to contaminate your brake pads and discs if you want them to work properly without any irritating squealing etc , When you fit pads do not touch the braking surface with anything not your fingers or rags nothing at all , do not spray them with brake cleaner either. I have always had perfect results washing the discs and pads with neat washing up liquid and scrubbing them with a nail brush very hard then rinsing with scolding hot water before drying off with paper kitchen towel. 3 align your brake calipers well so that the discs pass through the centre of them with an equal gap at each side of the disc , do this by filing the mounting points flat at the fork and swing arm carriers for perfect positioning then use shims if needed to correct the alignment . This means your pistons can retract equally leaving your disc able to spin freely with no drag and the braking will be applied evenly on the disc surface , obviously check the disc for warping and replace if it has run out after checking the mounting points on the hub are not causing a problem, Fit new disc spacers on floating discs if they are worn and sloppy. Make sure bolts are tight . 4 The Shock needs to be adjusted to give you firmness on the compression stroke and softness on the rebound stroke , it goes without saying that all linkage bearings at the swing arm must be perfect with almost zero noticeable play if you want the system to work well , also If you want to hop the rear easily do not have a large amount of sag set , You need to have some but not the large amounts that are usually recommended I have mine set with about 4cm measured at rest and pull up on the rear mudguard to see the sag. The front fork needs to be set to operate exactly the same speed of movement in compression and rebound as the rear of the bike ,this is easy to test by standing on the bike and hopping the whole bike sideways both right and to the left if it is out of unison it will be obvious by feeling the difference through the bikes movement. With all these settings optimised any bike will help you to achieve good results whatever technique you are practising . when you work on your bike take the wheels off and cover the brake callipers discs with plastic bags to fend off silicon polishes and any lubricants that you are spraying around/ applying . 5 Make sure the tyre pressures are helping you , more pressure will give more bounce than low pressure as it does in an inflated football , also a lighter tyre like a Michelin X light will be easier to get off the ground in a static hop situation , by that I mean not flicking the clutch lever out and giving a little touch of throttle to turn the rear wheel as you are hopping to help lift the rear of the bike using gyroscopic effect to pull the rear up , This is a good technique to help overcome the extra weight of heavier bikes such as a Montesa 4RT along with good suspension settings to make it easier to move the bike around . The position you have your rear wheel set in the swinging arm will also affect the ride of the bike , in dry conditions shorten the chain to shorten the wheelbase and in wet conditions lengthen the chain to move the wheel more to the rear to increase the wheelbase. Then test to get a feeling for what helps you to get the best results when using different techniques. 6 Changing gearing using differing sizes of sprocket at the gearbox and rear wheel will also affect the way you are able to execute techniques no matter which make of bike you are using. I hope this is of some use to you , all the best Alan.

@Assgas there is one spring in a diaphragm clutch so the thicker the clutch pack the more pre load you have on the spring and so in theory the pull at the lever will be harder and the less chance of having clutch slip , as the clutch discs wear the pull should become easier because you have a Belville spring with less preload on it. If you have the wrong type of O rings on the clutch post ie not compatible with the type of clutch fluid they will expand and may cause binding which would make it a hard pull at the clutch lever.

@carlanthony663 There is an exploded view of that fork and part description list at www.thehellteam.com in Tech Support Gas Gas Info , choose GasGas parts books and then look in 1993 GasGas Trial Contact T Parts , Year 92 also shows that PAIOLI 36mm upside down fork .

@Adam1977 Go to www.thehellteam.com look in suspension in the Tech support GASGAS INFO page then go to - TECH forks then MANUAL-OIL-SEAL-CHANGE Trial SX and DX.

Go to www.thehellteam.com Look in CARB AND JETTING on the TECH SUPPORT PAGE - GASGAS INFO.

This is what I have used in the past MFA como drills 457RE540/1 MOTOR with mounting bracket 4.5 - 15 volt 15,800 rpm @ 12 volts www.mfacomodrills.com.

I cut the top off a GasGas pro sump/filler plug once and drilled it out through the allen head recess and that worked fine, do not tighten that bolt very much its about 4Nm torque if I remember correctly . Use a medium strength thread lock liquid.

Being that you are in the USA and have obviously never seen the SSDT in its complete form you can be forgiven for thinking that riders do not sit down for quite long periods of time on their bikes during the Scottish while riding on the road in between sections , although it is a fact that they do and always have. There is a lot of footage of the SSDT on the internet showing riders doing just that . We live and learn. As you say DL 12 is over 6ft tall and I think uses no bar risers and as far as I know uses a 4 1/2" rise bar . He is a 'croucher ' on the bike with very strong legs like most serious trials riders have. He obviously is not hindered by his taller than average for a trials riders height .

Not sure that its an advantage to be tall on a trials bike riding on the trail , overhanging tree branches will let the tall rider know that its not an advantage. If you are an Enduro rider it is an advantage to be tall for example Pol Tarres 6ft 7" who bailed on Trials competition and went over to the tall seat bikes scene. I know who I would rather be riding the Scottish Six Day Trial with all that road work to do on a trials bike , short legs fold up smaller than gangly long legs when you are sat on a trials bike.

i dont think there will be many , Trials riders are known to be a bit shy when it comes to spending money. I wish I had the money for one , the weight of them is the big draw . Enjoy it and buy yourself an AIROH helmet to go with it or you will keep falling over to one side or the other.

Your older trials bike is no different than a current trials bike in the way it feels when stood on it . You should support your self with your legs when stood on the pegs/footrests not lean on the handlebars while riding . if you are tall try using bar raisers or taller/higher bars .Use trials bars NOT MX ones if you do change them , you should also not grip the bars tightly or you will end up having arm pump. The usual way to ride trials bikes is one finger covering the front brake lever and one finger covering the clutch lever at more or less all times but of course you can ride it however you like its your life. The thing about trials bikes is they are designed for competing in trial competition only and they are not comfortable to ride on trails or on the road as they are not designed for that purpose you just have to adapt. If you are 5ft 6" tall then they will be much more comfortable , Bou and Jaime Busto are ideal size trials riders as on the trail they can stand up straight. and their centre of gravity is so much lower which is probably the reason that they are the top riders . If you are taller then unfortunately you need to bend your knees and crouch a little while riding and support yourself with a strong pair of legs.

@Jamiecollins03 Jim to the rescue , unfortunately the good die. He did it for you so rejoice in his life work of helping others FOC. https://youtu.be/PuUGLuUMmOs?feature=shared

The rear shock you have high lighted is one of them or they have a special offer on OHLINS SHOCK GG18330 with a choice of two spring weights for about £100.00 cheaper that will fit your bike , the OHLINS shocks are less heavily damped when set at minimum damping setting than the SACHS ZF {as they come from the factory} so if you like to have a pogo stick rear end for hopping the bike around then this is beneficial I have both shocks and there is a very noticeable difference between the two , the SACHS feels numb compared to the lively OHLINS. I much prefer the OHLINS myself but there is nothing wrong with the SACHS shock it works well. SPLAT SHOP can service your SACHS shock it will cost £174.95 + SHIPPING . As far as i know trials shocks are not just a one fits all but it will be possible to make certain ones fit between different munufacturers by making some changes , but in my opinion it just is not worth the hassle as the 2 X reasonably priced SHOCKS that are readily available to fit straight on the bike are all that is needed unless you are competing in the World Trials Champs. A top of the range REIGER 4 way shock will fit your bike but at a cost of £1,240.00 GBP it may be too pricey but its the best you will get . Good luck with whatever you choose to do.

The Sachs rear shock is rebuildable by people who know what to do but unless you know where there is a specialist that rebuilds other peoples shocks then it will be problematic OHLINS produce a rear shock that will bolt straight on your bike you just need to buy the correct spring for your weight if you are lighter or heavier than the standard spring that is fitted which is for a rider around the 75/80Kg mark , rebuild parts are available for the OHLINS and they are a well known brand so it is the best bet really. If you cannot find one in the USA then try SPLAT SHOP in the UK @ www.splatshop.co.uk , they have them listed for sale , they also may possibly be able to rebuild your original SACHS ZF unit for a reasonable price you will have to ask.