gjbiker

GJ

Welcome and enjoy GJ

Lovin' it GJ

I now have a strange urge to bid on some Triumph pushrods.......perhaps I'll just add them to my 'watch' list..... GJ

Welcome to TC GJ

Going to be working GJ

According to a certain online dictionary thing the word 'Moto' in Urdu translates to 'Fat Girl' I'm gonna stick with 'Observed Motorcyle Trials' thank you very much ! GJ

The more photos the better for those of us unfortunate enough not to have been there - Cheers GJ

Go with the kids boots if they fit - much cheapness compared to the adult versions ! GJ

I use LHM (Citreon use a lot of this and there are many brands), cheaper than the Shimano recommended 'bloods' and you'll get a litre for under a fiver if you shop around. It's not hygroscopic like the DOT glycol based fluids (DOT 5 is silicone based, DOT 5.1 isn't - someone needs shot!) so tends to have a good shelf life. Johnsons Baby Oil can be used in an emergency! Whatever you do - don't mix 'em up ! GJ

Wise move, had my Gasser 3 seasons now with no major problems. My 4rt was a cracker as was my 315, Sherco did me well and my Scorpa was a belter. Old TY had its quirks and my Fantic was reasonably reliable but the Rev 3 I owned for a year cost more in repairs than all of my previous bikes put together! Mateys year old Evo is giving him grief already! Sorry Beta lovers but if you want Italian fashion - buy a Belstaff ! GJ

No harm in askin I suppose? I know quite a few people you would gladly lend me their bike in that situation but I'd only ask in an absolute emergency - is there a Championship trial on tomorrow that I wasn't told about? (Typed in a sarcastic font) GJ P.S. you can borrow my bike tomorrow if you're really that desperate - I'm only a couple of miles up the road

If memory serves right, my 98 scorpa didn't have a bleed nipple at the clutch slave? Haven't had much dealings with them since but regardless - if there isn't a bleed nipple use the banjo bolt as one; pressure the clutch, break the banjo, let fluid run all over the place, tighten the banjo, pressure the clutch etc etc etc until you're happy it's bled. Then wash everything immediately. or replace the plain banjo bolt with a bleed nipple type and bleed as normal. or if there isn't a banjo and the clutch line screws straight into the slave just loosen and tighten as per the above method - trickier but can be done. or improvise and adapt GJ

The above link is HERE if you hadn't sussed it? Pretty good as a guide but I reckon Thedbf may need a more 'hands on' helper if he can find one? Good tip for the future - if somethings starts to sound wrong, kill the engine quickly! It could save you a few quid? GJ

Ditto as to my reply! DOH GJ

I doubt the weight of the bike is the problem? Probably more of a pyschological effect from the power a 270 has? See if you can get her a shot of a 125 and I'll bet (50p) she'll think it's a lot 'lighter'! (Hope my theory is right 'cos I hating parting with money). Edit; Just read another topic of a similar subject HERE........looks like my ten bob is safe? GJ

I doubt the weight of the bike is the problem? Probably more of a pyschological effect from the power a 270 has? See if you can get her a shot of a 125 and I'll bet (50p) she'll think it's a lot 'lighter'! (Hope my theory is right 'cos I hating parting with money). GJ

One seal or two seals - however many you need to change there's a really good 'How To' guide here....Clicky Linky GJ

Bit early for the Santa hats though Donald - you're worse than Tescos GJ

Strange one? I suppose if the stator backing plate was loose enough it may have the same effect on the timing as a slipping rotor? More details and a photo or two would be handy.......... GJ

Never any doubts Andy, I just like to play with new toys Excellent feature though, much better than flicking between browsers GJ

Nice little clip just to try out the new embeddy thingy.... GJ

Not being picky about your post but...... The diagram above is from the 2001 Sherco parts book and clearly shows 2 seals (part No: 1.24)? If there was only one seal then the 'tell tale' weep hole wouldn't be there? Would you change you're crank just because the crank seals are passing? If there's no visible damage to the shaft (pitting, scores etc) then a new seal should suffice? Nobody wants to spend more than they need to do they? GJ

Simple enough job if you're handy with the spanners and reasonably achievable if you're not? Just dismantle as per the image, carefully remove the old seals and carefully fit the new ones - simples You're 'block the hole with a screw bodge' will work for a while but keep an eye on that gearbox oil (and of course your coolant level)! Once the outer seal has failed the coolant pressure may cause the inner seal to fail as well? GJ

This is letting you know your coolant is passing through the outer water pump seal. If your gearbox oil starts to emulsify (turn milky) then the inner seal has gone as well. In a nutshell - you need new water pump seals ! Check the impellor shaft for damage while you're doing the job as this may have been the cause of the seal failure? GJ