Yamaha

Hello All this may be a daft question but on the top off the fork tubes just under the top yoke there is only what I can describe as a small groove looks like a Letter C or like a small thumb nail any 1 any idea why these are there? 1 each tube. ?

Hi folks, looking for some advice. im currently restoring a 1980 ty175 during strip down I noticed one of the fingers is snapped off on the clutch basket. Looks like a previous owner has welded up a small hole in the case from the outside not considering the damage it could cause on the inside upon start up. Each finger is badly scored and one has completely snapped off. The bike was running all be it quite rattling so they must have removed all debris and used the bike. My question do I need to replace the affected parts and if so where can I get them (tried EBay) many thanks all.

Hello what you guys using for the TY 80 engine paint silver? cheers

I need a new throttle cable. pre mix is gone and I want a one piece. Whats the best fix. New to the TY's, can I walk into the yamaha dealer and get one.

Too cold to do much today so painted the muffler. Zipped around yard with it out a couple of times. More noise - no extra power.

I ride a modern Trials bike and want to get a TY to ride and set up our vintage sections. I found a 175 that has some mods done and looks pretty good. But the owner has a couple 250's that are not as nice. He put the 250 wheels and tires on the 175 because the tires where nice Michelin's and cut a spacer to line things up. This also means that it now has a dished sprocket on it. My questions are things like, are they heavier ? will the dished sprockets get hard to get in the future ? Is this something anybody else has done. I think it is silly he did it. maybe the spokes and rims are better or something else. but should I skip it or not be worried. I know …

I just picked-up a really nice 1978 TY250E. It's in great cosmetic condition and it starts easily, idles well and has a ton of compression. However, for a 250cc 2-stroke trials bike it seems to be a bit lacking in low end power. I figured that a bike would loop itself in first gear if it was given full gas and a good pull on the bars. On my bike - it takes a lot of effort to get the wheel just a foot off the ground. Part of this is poor rider technique, but I have other 2 stroke bikes and when they are in the power band - they rev-up like crazy! I posted a couple of videos below so you can see what I mean. It might be my expectations are too high for a bike with a h…

It looks like the seal might have gone, as my bike has decided to mark it's territory very thoroughly ... can it be swapped without major headaches? And does anyone know what size it is?

hello dear cyber friends, so moving onto replacing steering head bearings now (74TYa). Are there any top tips or special tools i should think about or read up on before embarking on this (for me) cryptic conundrum of mechanical mastery. are there any surprises replacing the original old ball and race with the new tapered kit? this vid got me a wee bit nervous... ive watched many vids online but they're all big road bikes, and i've searched the forum and found a few things, but if i'm missing a useful thread and this has been covered before please direct me there! im just looking for a basic walk through on procedure if different/easier on a…

Hello I have a TY 80 dose any 1 know if there' s a After Market Carb? TA

Due to the home projects I had going (new boat shed) plus some upcoming winter weather and the extended time it took to get a cylinder re-bored and plated, new piston, etc, I have not actually started putting the engine back together. That is because of one other nagging problem that is bothering me. That is the missing needle out of the upper needle bearing cage that was part of the engine when I tore it down. I noticed that it was missing from the cage when I took the piston off the con rod. There was a rag under the piston, but with my luck it could have found it's way down into the cases under the flywheel. I have looked everywhere for it…

Maybe someone knows this one? I got the rebuilt cylinder back from Millenium with a chrome bore and new piston,(ended up being a Wiseco piston) but the 6 studs that hold the head on were not installed. The threaded holes are in fine condition and very clean, but can someone tell me what sort of chemical(s) should be used to keep the studs from backing off? I am thinking some sort of Locktite, but I am not sure. Also, the studs have more thread on one end than the other. Which end should go down?.

Hi, I’ve been rebuilding a TY125 for some time and have nearly finished, the problem is that the original carb has some serious internal corrosion and I can’t get the bike to run properly. I’ve found an incomplete TY175 carb on eBay but have no idea what main jet size to use, the 175 has a 240 main in the bottom of the float bowl while the 125 has a 100 in the conventional position.

Hi all I’m new to this forum. I acquired a 1980? Ty175 about a year ago and I’m just starting to re condition it hoping for some help and support. My first hurdle is removing the flywheel. I’ve managed to remove the centre nut doesn’t seem to be a washer behind it? I’ve now threaded two pullers trying to get the flywheel off. Is there something I’m missing? It says in the book tighten the puller and hit the central bolt but it’s stuck solid? Any help would be greatfully received.

any news on the TE ? Guy

Hi all, so? Ty80 forks were knackered so in the usual spirit of repair rather than source a replacement which are often as knackered as the ones I've got i sent them off for Re chrome, straighten and rebuild with new seals. It took months to get them back, so all looked good till the first ride and son says they are locking? They are not moving up and down? When completely compressed back in the garage they knock side to side so I diagnose worn bushes, are these still available and from previous threads I see you can remove the spring clip and slidehammer the whole lot out? But there's a screw in the bottom of the fork leg which I thought held the whole lot together? I d…

mechanical maestros, if you could tolerate yet another question from the ignoramus..... i realized at 160lbs (72kg) i'm on the border between 40 and 50 lb springs. maybe i should have got 50 lbs as i ride mostly road here in NYC but i went with 40lbs on the new falcons as that's what the guy sent me from the UK. i know the 40lbs are perfect for trials use however now methinks maybe i need to set them on max pre load as they seem a tad soft. im used to the thread/tool adjuster and the original step adjuster type pre loads, but not sure what the procedure is for these cir-clips? no doubt its super easy and you're all laughing, but i don't want to damage them…

If anyone would care to post a picture of a trials gear shift lever for the TY 250 A and / or just tell me what the length is supposed to be? I think mine is non- standard as the original owner had the bike set up for trail riding and I want to switch it back to trials mode for the time being.

I've recently bought a nice 1976 TY175 with a view to doing the odd twinshock trial. It's very clean and original but has a nick in one of the graphics on the tank and the heat shield is a bit off colour. I've ordered new graphics and a local paint shop will do the respray and lacquer etc. Two quick q's. 1. Does £200 sound about right for this job? Back in 1980 I did my own respray and lacquer with cans but I need a better finish than my lack of talent will deliver. 2. Does anyone know the colour code (it is a white model)? Cheers.

I have a 1976 TY250. It's missing the heat shield '250' decal and I have not been able to find one to purchase. My plan is to create this decal – it is white on clear. As my bike is currently stored away from my house, I'm asking to see if someone can measure the heat shield decal area on the heat shield – specifically the height. I believe the heat shield is the same on all models (though I may be wrong). I plan on making a bunch if anyone else needs one. I believe the same decal is used on the left-side plastic cover. Thanks,