Twinshock

Not sure iff this post is in the right forum but here goes. Bearing in mind my inexperience riding a trials bike im suffering from really bad handache after about 15 minutes and have to stop and rest them. I work in enginering so i consider myself to have reasonably strong hands but they are quite small and i find the levers quite a stretch. Are there any levers available that are adjustable for reach but still allow the same amount of cable travel ? Cheers Mark

Hi Guys Although I specifically want some new levers for my 1974 TY250 I thought it made more sense to ask in here as it is a more generic question What levers would you recommend ? I currently have some VERY nasty generic ones on the bike and need to change them asap Also do all the trials levers on the market accept the same size cable barrels ? Thanks in advance for any help

hi, hoping that someone can help me out.i ride a twin shock swm gs bike with the modern guys.bike gos like hell,but the brakes suck.they wont lock up on stone roads! they have ebc shoes and i sand the hubs and shoes then clean them with brake cleaner.any ideas before i kill myself on this thing...thanks...johnnyb

Whats best paint the hubs with a quality paint such as PJ1 or powder coat? thanks!

I am looking to make an aluminimum brake lever fo my Cota 200 on my new fangled milling machine!!! What grade of ally should I use? I must have fallen asleep during Material Technology when I went to Tech many years ago!!! Ian

My Grimeca rear brake plate cam bushing is very worn....the cam is also bent (go figure!) it works fine still but obviously needs repairing. Can anyone recommend an enginnering shop to do this...I can post, but based in Norfolk if anyone knows somewhere local. .. need to source a rear cam first though!

The front brake on my recently acquired TY 175 is beyond poor, even for a "modern" drum, much worse than I recall from the day. All seems OK with plenty of meat on the shoes and careful setting up but I'm going to try new shoes. Does peoples' experience with drums generally show that one make is better than another and, if so, which is the best one? Thanks

Looking for new shoes for my Penton Mudlark. Not sure what the hubs are, other than OEM. I'm told Rickman Zundapp are the same and maybe REH. But I'm not sure. Any information is appreciated. Thanks

I apologize if anyone's copyright is breached but I had to share them with other appreciative people: '70's pics from the US

After 20 years out of trials, I treated myself to a 2004 Beta to see if I could still complete. Have loved practicing the last 9 months (as well as tinkering with the bike) and have completed in two events. The last one was Border Classics event 2 weeks ago, where I was bitten by the twin shock bug! Seeing all of the old bikes I use to compete on got me thinking...... So Ive managed to source a Fantic 240 (the last bike I rode competetively). Has been in my mums garage for 3 years (a mate of my brothers). It has not been ran but does kick over. Only obvious issue is that the front forks are stuck, apart from that just needs a damm good clean. Paid

I would like to see all different models restored & projects , cheers , this is 1974 replica

Anybody have a piston-to-wall clearance and a ring end-gap for a 350 Alpina? Thanks.

Have just brought home a 1974 alpina 350 (i am fairly sure , as it has a head that looks too small for the barrell) , what niche would this bike have filled ? got it started (BLOODY HELL !! the man said it hadn,t done much work he wasn,t lying , it,s got as much compression as my ty350) but haven,t ridden it yet so am not knowing what gearing is like , would it have been like a long distance trials bike perhaps? and i need one fork slider , one is perfect , one is cactus , thanks steve batkines bundaberg

Since I had the Sherpa T and KT frames handy I shot some photos of them and uploaded them to http://www.eurospares.com/newadd.htm so that it would be easy to compare the two. cheers, Michael

Hello Everyone I suspect that some of you may have owned one of the above bikes at some stage (and now decided to go a bit slower) and I am hoping you may be able to help with a problem I am having. Bought the bike sight unseen and when I got it home discovered that all that was claimed in the ad was not factual, but that is my problem now. The bike starts with no trouble after a couple of kicks. When I go for a ride, 1st and 2nd gear no problems. If I increase the revs above approx 3000rpm the bike starts to splutter and run erratically. Just does not like high revs. Things I have had checked are coil -seems fine, swapped for another spare that I have - same prob…

Asking on behalf of a mate, is it possible to dismantle (cut ?) a Sherpa exhaust and repack it. If so how, and should both boxes be repacked ? Thanks in advance ... Mike

Getting bored of your 340????.........well why not try this 1980's French trike conversion kit Uses different triple clamp's and a swingarm with rear axle set up that can be swapped onto the bike with no other alterations. I have seen a photo of the kit on a Gori trialer and within the last few weeks have been contacted buy a guy in Germany who has just converted a SWM trike back to solo. He is interested in selling the trike kit, if anyone fancys a challenge drop me a pm. Martin

seems cool, but the engine looks overgrown in the small frame. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...5&category=6719 not that I am into these, the Mont 23 look more to scale. k

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/340-Bultaco-Sherpa-t...1QQcmdZViewItem