Twinshock

I rebuilt my forks with the magical dampening rods, magical springs, and adjustable pre-load bolts. I added 167cc of 10 wt. fork oil. I set the adjuster at minimum 20mm, and the fork caps add approximately another 28mm of preload (around 48mm total). I weight 225 with gear on, this is the reason I felt a little more pre-load maybe ok. When cycling the fork with no spring and fork cap off there is a sucking sound of the oil, sounds like it is getting some air. Is this common? The dip length maybe different with the magical dampening rods as the length is different than the stock rod. Suggestions for fork oil amount? General suggestions? Thank You Glenn

hello, does any have a rear (or pair) mugduard for marlin / cagiva DG350 ? regards

Hi all, I have always had a lot of affection for twinshock Montesa's. I had a Cota 123 as a kid and rode my Dad's 247 whenever I could. I now have a Cota 330 which I hope to compete on soon. However it seems really difficult to find information about the bikes. I had a little browse through these forums and there are lots of posts like - Where can I get spares for my..... or how much oil should my Montesa have in the forks etc... Is there an owners club? If there is I haven't found it yet. There is some good stuff on www.southwestmontesa.com but obviously it is a commercial business. I am thinking of somewhere where information can be collated and shared to help keep t…

The skid plate for my 74 TY250A is missing. B&J Racing has aftermarket plates, but the owner got hurt and is unable to ship. Are there other options for a skid plate, possibly from a different bike that will fit, or aftermarket that will fit with a little modification? Thank You Glenn

I recently purchased a 74' TY250 which the prior owner rebuilt the forks. The forks feel very soft and offer a very flat rebound feeling. I decided to rebuild them again since the stanchions are rusty. I ordered new replacement stanchions and new aluminum damper rods "including all the factory works modifications" 🙂 for what that's worth. I also ordered a set of OZO Pro Trials rear shocks (340mm and set up for a 230 pound rider). I am looking for a set of replacement fork springs and possible rebound springs (if necessary) that will work with the above setup and my weight and I am having trouble locating them. BJR doesn't have any stock on fork springs at …

As I said in the title I’m looking to upgrade the shocks on my 61 tiger cub. I’ve seen tons of trials builds on tiger cubs and they look great, but I’m not too interested in doing trials (nowhere even near me to do them). I don’t know an insane amount about bikes, just enough to keep mine running, but what weight shocks would I need for a bike that I rip around on trails every other weekend with? I used to spend a lot of time doing motocross and just want something that I can do similar things with, I already have a heavy weight fork but I’ve seen trials suspension be only 40-50 pounds while some motocross shocks hit 70. So what do you guys think? tl;dr I want to bui…

I have bought a pair of Betor Gas Aluminum Trial shocks and found the bush a little too wide to fit in my frame. The bush feels like it’s in a spherical bearing so I’m not sure if they press out? I emailed Betor and I’m not sure they knew what I was asking…. It needs to be just 2mm narrower - so I could grind it down in situ, but if it comes out I’d prefer to do that. Stephen

Working on competing in A Grade events against modern bike on my 1983 TLR200. Tell me what you think of my little edit. More videos on my channel. Make sure to subscribe for more content coming soon! Located in Australia 🇦🇺 Channel: https://youtube.com/channel/UCxMq5wF99hHlWoew0y-DnJA

I made the below post a couple weeks ago and didn't get any replies. So, perhaps someone could chime-in on this follow-on question I have. A friend of mine rode Dalesman trials bikes (with PUCH motor) back in the early 1970s. He told me all three of his bikes he had (with the PUCH) all "lost" first gear and that it is nearly impossible/very difficult to fix; I assume what's happening is that the first gear teeth break off the spline. He tells me this is a very common problem with the PUCH 125cc motors in the trials bikes. Besides not riding the bike, does anyone have a suggestion that could reduce the chances from this happening? I was thinking of pr…

My mate Tim just acquired a Dalesman and we have started on the restoration/rebuild process. There is no frame number but the log book shows the frame number as the engine number but with a '1)' in front and also that it was registered in March '69 by Terry Silvesters in Holmfirth. The story goes that they sold it to their sponsored rider who may or may not be a Mr Anthony, the second owner. It is a four speed and has very flimsy forks that have suffered a heavy frontal impact witnessed by bent fork yokes and egg-shaped rim.The frame, which has only a slight kink in the top-tube, is reynolds 531 and much lighter than it looks. Both rims were chromed steel and so are proba…

I have a follow up question in my search for new rear shocks for vintage trials competitions. What does "Damping" mean and what is the actual different in riding with "standard damping" or with "light/ super light damping"? Thanks.

I'm riding 1970 Montesa Cota 247. I'm beginner and stating to compete in vintage trails events, meaning riding in woods. My bike has 10/48 sprockets set. The Cota manual indicate that the factory bike has 11/46 set. The difference is about 12%. But what does it mean? My main goal is to ride as slowly as I can in 1st gear and maintain smooth acceleration when needed. Does the 11/46 ratio is slower then 10/48? Should I changed back to the factory setting?

Hi. Advice please. I’ve repaired my gear selector cover on my TY175. All back together again and now I cannot select any gears. It’s as if the selector forks inside the engine are jammed or not moving and won’t move the pinions. After much huffing and puffing I took the clutch off to see the shifter assembly on the end of the gear shaft. The hooks don’t appear to engage with the pinned drum and hence won’t move anything. I tried to rotate the pinned drum manually but it seems to be locked solid. Any ideas?

Does anyone know if you can just buy the mid box separately (I already have the tail pipe) or anyone selling one second hand?

I've got a question for all you guys who've fitted after market front pipes to your Yamaha TY 250's (Majesty's or not) I see there are basically 3 variations, standard, long (where it exits goes to bike left side up then over and back to right side and short where it exists and comes up through the front framer tubes and back to middle box. What are the pro's and cons of each from a bike response / riding style perspective. Also is it a must to have the WEs mid box with either the long or short variation? Thanks

Any recommendations for my 199B Sherpa? Just how important are the shocks in trials? Im an old slow fat guy..

I’m going to be working on a friends 1985 Can Am (Armstrong) 240 (Rotax) trials bike. I have a couple of SWM 320s (280 Rotax) . So I know where to get any engine parts. The body and frame parts I’m not so sure about. We need the following: muffler... ...carb kit... ...seat... ...all cables... ...decals... ...intake tube from carb to engine...since it has the Amal carb the intake tube appears different(smaller id) SWM? ...air filter... ...rear sprocket... ...front and rear fenders ...what handlebars do you recommend?.. thanks

Hi Just thought i would post a quick note to see if there are any other CCM tr 350 owners out there or other like minded CCM fans please drop me a line

Just about complete now, although you can always find more to do. Time to get on with my Ossa TR77 now.

Hi I am a new b just bought a montesa cota 349 to restore having trouble with kick start rattling when running it seems there is a tooth missing on the gear how do I change the starter gear thanks