Pre-65 Bikes

Hi Numpty alert:!!!!!!! Just wondering what BSA Bantams are worth when modded. I know it depends on the level of mods and quality of the overal job but roughly speaking what are they worth? I am about to start building one but do not want to plough thousands into it for it only 900 quid ( i am new to the pre65's but wanting to get into it....ive seen them varying in price so not really sure?) Cheers

Well as the title suggests does anybody know what size taper roller bearings will fit the headstock on a D14/4 Bantam ? I can machine the stem on the yokes to suit so within reason the id doesn't matter. Thanks in anticipation.

Sorry for yet another Bantam question but.......B175 frame:- The cast iron lug wel.ded to the top of the frame at rear, the top mounting for the subframe. Is this welded to the frame or is it a lug joining the two sections of frame together? I remember seeing an old film of frames being brazed together on a hearth using lugs and frame .sections being brazed in. I don't want to grind it off and my frame fall in two bits!

I have a distributor BSA C15 engine I intend to build for trials, I have a WD low ratio box, I want to keep it 250cc, also intend to keep the bush bearing having a new phosphor bronze one made to suit. Having removed the top end all looks good so far, not run for a while but sound. PVL or Electrex ignition will be used. Has anyone any more tips for a soft 250cc build?? Thanks in advance...

I'm not sure whether the 2nd and 3rd gears on my bantam engine have already been swopped over. If you want to lower the gearing on a transmission then you go for less teeth on the driving end and more on the driven end. So, in the gearbox, am I right in assuming I should end up with the 22 teeth cog on the output shaft, and 21 on the other shaft ?

just finishing my 4 speed 185 cc bantam project but not sure what gearbox and rear wheel sprockets to start with, the engine has 12t primary sprocket any ideas would be most welcome.

Fitting a PVL to my C15 but it doesn't have any instructions. Could anyone please confirm the position of the 4 spacers provided with the kit? 3 are obviously for the stator and one for the rotor. However, if the rotor spacer is fitted to the crankshaft behind the rotor there is hardly any thread protruding. Similarly should the stator spacers be behind or front side of the stator? Thanks.

Hi,I have recently acquired my Uncles 1956 Ariel HT5 which he used in the late fifties and early sixties,as far as I can tell the bike has been unused/untouched since 1962. I would like to restore the bike but do not have much Knowledge of older bikes (magnetos etc.) and was just wondering if there is anyone local to me who could offer any advice. I will have to progress quite slowly with it as I do not have loads of money to throw at it,I am also unsure whether to try to return it to original spec.or just to restore to the spec,he used the bike in (seems to have several 'homebrewed'modifications).Any advice would be welcome.I am located near Leeds.

Hello does anybody know where I can get the drawings/dimensions for a Ariel HT 1954 rigid frame, I have found a website which mentions Jim Susan's Bikecraft and it says he has retired. I have attached a picture

Hi there my dad is looking to ride the Scottish Pre65 in 2015 but he needs to sort out the forks on the bantam, can anyone tell me what forks to use or what forks you turn down to fit Triumph 3TA fork bottoms and what yokes to use. cheers

hi has anyone got a number for roger heap frame builder think hes in the preston area cheers kev

Still working on my 'new' 500 long stroke Ariel The carb is an Amal concentric 626 and it's worn. Specifically the slide is very worn with loads of movement in the bore but a new slide is very tight which suggests a poor / distorted body. The jetting is bushed pilot, 106 needle jet, 160 main jet, 3.5 slide. Now I could order a new carb with the same jetting but I think people are using 622 carbs these days to improve low speed running and control. If that is the case would I keep the same jetting and slide in the smaller carb or would I have to change it?

here you go a shot of a pre war Panther Stroud. I do like the holes on the mudguard stays. This is taken at the factory in Cleckheaton in 1946

Hello, my first post on here but been lurking around the forum for a while. I'm in the middle of restoring my 1962 C15T and have come across a bit of a problem. The rear wheel is quite a bit out of line with the main frame loop and after a lot of checking and measuring it seems to be that the whole swinging arm is out of line. The lug that the swinging arm spindle goes through is twisted over to the left of the bike compared with the bottom frame tube. I've found a thread on here with someone with a similar problem, in fact it looks exactly the same in the photo. Here is a link to it: http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/27793-c15-frame-alignment/ All the brazing …

Hi Guy's, I own a beautiful 1961 Matchless G3C that isn't running at it's best. I think it's the carb but before I go out and buy a new carb I wondered if anybody could recommend somebody in the midlands that would be able to tune my bike? It ias a AMAL MK1 Concentric carb, after about 5 mins of running it appears to run out of fuel and you have to tickle the carb again to be able to start it as if it is getting air into the carb from somewhere. I have a Domino fast action throttle on it and wonder if that contributes to the problem as when you open it up quickly it appears to jump straight to the main jet. Desperately want to get her running nice as at the moment she i…

Hi, I have a 32A engine with a light clutch which doesn't slip or drag but I ride a lot of modern trials and would like the clutch to be smoother rather than on/off. Can anyone help please? There must be better springs, plates, baskets etc. or even, heaven forbid, a more modern clutch. Am I asking too much from my bike as it's pretty good? I only use 6 springs. Merry Xmas everyone, Steve

I have been building a replica Norton 500T for the last seven years and finally I am getting enough time to finish it. I plan to use a 26mm Mk 1 Amal concentric carburettor and would like to understand where to start with the jets, needle and slide. A good starting point would be what do other riders use on Ariel HT5 or similar 500 cc singles, I plan to use a simple foam air filter mounted on the inlet without an air box. Also how do real Amal and similar replica parts compare? Any feedback appreciated

Riding round the garden today on the C15 and had to reverse the bike in gear with the clutch pulled in and it wouldn't go backwards unless it was in neutral.The clutch is fine and clears all the gears,is this normal????.I have never noticed this before (recently changed gearbox camplate with upgraded part,gear change is fine),could it be something to do with the kickstart/pawl as it's action now seems further forward than it used to be. cheers the noo Brian

Have just purchased a 500cc Ariel and I'm wondering what gearing people are using. Currently its Primary drive 14/42, Final drive 16/48, gearbox described as standard GB47 It feels high geared to me (across the garden), just don't know how much to lower it

http://www.flickr.com/photos/76022002@N08/11015201966/ Original frame (modified). Lots of work but looks pretty and seems to ride well....