Fantic

Hi all, going to respray my fantic 240 frame , anyone bought any paint of eBay recently? Any recommendations for brands? I see there are several available, what’s rustoleum like? Or should I stick to 2k, ps I aim to spray it with gun, not aerosol . Cheers

Hi all. There is a Fantic 241 for sale locally to me that I might be interested in. When I was last messing around on trials bikes back in the mid 80's mainly on a TY175, Fantic 200's and 240's were the bikes to aspire to. What's the main difference between the 240 & 241 ? I see the 241 is monoshock, but are the motors similar ? Is the 241 just an evolution of the 240 ? and what's the spares availability like ? Thanks Mat

Hello All - Well, I finally made it through my first 240 motor rebuild - with much appreciation to those of you who helped me get there. Pretty straightforward though it clearly proved how manual-dependent I've become. Probably spent way too much time pouring over the parts schematics to confirm assembly sequence and to avoid leaving out any important shims or what-have-you. Question... While looking at the factory tools that were available and listed at the back of the parts catalog, I saw one in particular that has me stumped (see attached). Any ideas how this tool was used? I have one of these but, for the life of me, can't figure out what or where it wa…

Hi all, Does anyone know where to get the fork bushings for the marzocchi forks fitted to the later 200's. I've tried the google route and inmotion but can't find any to purchase. Thanks.

How much gearbox oil do you use in these engines? 1350 seems an awful lot of oil for a little engine. I guess it could help the cooling.

Had the clutch off and rebuilt now its developed this little problem, one in three / five times when you try and start the bike the kick start slips. Not clutch slip when riding no drag or delayed action... is it just a case of undoing the nut underneath winding the kickstart and spring up and retighting the nut or maybe something else...I need it for next week and I am crap on the spanners

Has anyone experimented with carburettor size on a rear kick Fantic 200? The bike is standard with no modifications. It is used in classic trials but not on the hard line, so doesn't need more top end power. I have calculated carburettor velocity for a number of air cooled trials bikes including Bultaco, TY175 and 250, TY Mono, and Gas Gas Aire, and all have the same velocity through the carburettor. The Fantic 200 carb would need to be reduced to 22 mm to match the velocity in all of the bikes listed above. 25mm is standard but the bike is not used for trail riding or road use. Has anyone tried a smaller carb to increase throttle response? Rega…

Hi there, can anyone give me a base line jetting for a Fantic 307 at sea level? Full story: I've just gotten my first trials bike, a Fantic 307. It starts but it runs very irregularly, won't idle properly and finally bogs down. Compression gets up to 11 bar in 304 kicks, so that seems solid. Reed valves and intake boots look OK. I've changed the spark plug (the old one was at 0.4mm gap..?), the air filter and the air box cover rubbers. Carb and jets looked clean enough, but it's time to have a second look at the carb. I suspect the float level is all over the place. The jetting seems weird as well, so I'd like to restore everything to stock.

And so... The bike is stripped and the swinging arm spindle won't come out. I have a couple of questions: It has been soaked with penetrating fluid for a couple of weeks. Is the swinging arm spindle threaded in to the left side of the frame? If it is threaded in what's the best way to grip it to screw it out? A small nut welded to the other end? A hole drilled through the middle to put a pry bar in? Something else? Any help would be very much appreciated. Cheers, Clive.

Evening all. I have two rear wheels from a fantic 200 with the conical hubs. I'm about to rebuild one of them but currently they have slightly different off sets? One is 42mm (measured from the non sprocket side) and the other is 43.5mm? I can't find anything definitive web wise so I just wondered if anybody knew the correct measurement. I've tried accurately measuring from the swinging arm to both sides of the wheel but as the swinging arm is round it's proved a bit hit and miss at best! Thanks in advance.

It's a topic that has come up before, but there was no definitive answer in a previous thread. The problem - completely removing / refitting the exhaust system on a Fantic 240. The dilemma has occurred after reaching the glorious final stages of a resto' project, and after reassembling the bike, with the engine bolted back in place, and the carb' & all the rubbers wrestled back in to place only to find that the immaculately painted exhaust ain't going to be neatly slipping through them tight gaps even with a lot of banging and metal on metal contact. So, has anyone come up with the most effective way to take off and / or fit an exhaust system to an assembled bike…

We stripped the forks today and are sending the stanchions off for re-chroming and grinding. The spacers are 2 bits of electrical conduit (of different lengths) and there are three seals (plus the top wiper seal) stacked in each fork. Can anyone tell me how many seals it should have please? How long should the proper spacers be? I have no manual. Rob

Looking for some info on splitting a fantic 125 engine please - best splitting tool to use and any other tips the engine is actually an fm260 enduro motor but is more or less identical to an fm250 trials engine - many thanks

Hi everybody, new here and I am just looking for some advice regarding my fantic section, I have just been rebuilding it after getting it as a project and I have seen on a previous thread there is supposed to be a bleed nipple for the clutch to bleed it through. I belive mine has had an Allen bolt put in instead I am just wondering if anyone has any idea of the size bleed nipple that was originally used or if there are any other tricks I could use to bleed it through?

Hi all, where’s the best place to look for parts for 305/ coach thanks

Hi all, new to this forum and just trying to get into sorting up the fantic I purchase nearly 15 year ago now. as far as I know it’s a 1991 fantic coach is there any way of making sure of this, it’s so I get the right parts. thanks ?

I have an '82 240 and am doing maintenance during the pause in our riding season. I've had several people tell me that it's important to cut the pipe open and replace the internal packing. I don't have a problem doing the work but I can't get anyone to tell why it needs to be done. I understand why I need to repack the muffler but the pipe makes no sense. I can push a piece of tubing clear through. Anyone have an explanation?

I have a Fantic trials bike, thought to be 80cc and from 1988. The frame reads DGM 52778 and the underside of the fuel tank reads 2937-88. From reading up and looking through pictures i believe it to be a 303 but I'm no expert and am looking for some insight if possible. I'd also love to know what this thing is worth. Thank you!

I'm looking at needing a new piston / ring for my Fantic 240. It's a 1984 model, and I'm the second owner of the bike which I've had since 1987, so I don't know its history in its first three years of its life. Looking at the piston fitted I see it had markings on it '3P' and 'D'. And the inner of the piston has Fantic Motor moulded in it, so that might suggest it's not an after-market piston. (Research suggests Mahle produced the pistons for the Fantic factory, so whether they then moulded them with Fantic Motor within I'm uncertain). Has anyone any knowledge of how an original piston for the 240 was marked? I know that after-market pistons are marked in overbore si…

Any body have an alternative to the side panel grommets on the Fantic's? I found some over in France but to get 6 the cost was up around £35 including postage.