bullylover

I forgot to say David, the main reason for the head gasket was the head gasket way was much cheaper to make than the extended barrel liner.

One major difference between the later 350 and the 250 engines is the 250 had lighter primary drives as well as a light ignition flywheels. That is why they rev quicker.

Hi Mark. Any good TIG welder should be able to weld that fork up with no hassles. I don`t know if you can swap the sides without any problems though. Someone on here must know though. Graham.

Isn`t the Jumbo the only one with 38mm Betor forks? That would add a few kilos I think.

I sent them via email tonight fourex so you should have them now. I hope you can find at least one which is clear enough. The Jumbo is in a horrible spot to get to to take any photos of.

Grease or even oil is fine as both let the gasket let go if you have to pull it off again. Installing it dry means you have to buy a new gasket every time. Graham.

Today I put in some new fork seals from a KTM SX 65, 2002 to 2009 into a friends Model 213 Alpina. While it was apart I also cleaned out and regreased the steering head as it was a bit lumpy. New oil and it works very well again. Of course I had to go for a test ride to make sure it was all okay. Those sea;s fit all the 35mm Bultaco forks too. I also had to make sure my M159 still went so just happened to accidently go for a ride on it as well! Graham.

Hi fourex. I can take some photos of one tomorrow out in Upper Brookfield. I`ll put my phone number up here so you can send me a text with your number so I can send you the photos easily. Mine is 0403180925. That way I won`t have to load any more photoss onto my computer. Cheers Graham.

It was either the M192 or the M206 that Bultaco changed the stroke to 64mm. I`m not sure which model it was. Graham.

I don`t know for sure but I think these Pursang 125`s are the last of the 5 speed ones so any previous ones back as far as probably the MK 5 or 6 should all fit. I know the MK 9 and the MK 10 are a 6 speed. Yours is a MK 8. Graham.

In the UK I think almosdt all Bultacos, Montesas and Ossas were sold with Aluminium petrol tanks and the M150 ones did have smooth side panels. The fiberglass ones had ridges on the sidepanels. Over here in Australia the Aluminium tanks are pretty rare. Graham.

Have a look for Goneli Mudguards anywhere in NZ. I know Bultaco Australia and probably the Hell Team sell them here in Australia. Graham.

I had to buy a exhaust thread which goes onto the exhaust pipe from In Motion and then get a local car engineering shop to make me up an insert which they inserted into the barrel. I haven`t heard anything back from the owner of this bike so it must be working fine. Ask around at a few engineering places. It was not overly expensive either.

A good way to do this is to put some valve grinding paste onto the crank where the taper is then lightly put the flywheel on with no key. Then just turn the flywheel and lap the flywheel to the crank. You might need to do this a few times until you have a smooth surface on both the crankshaft and the flywheel. Good luck.

I`d check the wiring all through the system. Make sure it has continuity through the wiring. After that just check the top coil earth. Pull the coil off and resand the contacts onto the frame. Bad coil earths can cause what you are describing. How is the end of the high tension lead where it joins the spark plug cap. Chop the end off the lead and rejoin the plug cap. Good luck. Graham.

For the air hose a hose and filter to suit a Bultaco M199B fits on the Italjets. The last model Italjets used a one piece hose and filter. The Bultaco ones fit straight in.

I`m pretty sure they were a 71mm bore for the 238`s David. The 212 Alpina`s were also a 71mm bore. I know the M158`s are a 71mm standard bore. Or the Australian ones were anyway. The one I owned was 71mm standard. Graham.

With the Barnett plates you only need 4 of the fiber plates so yes you will lose one inner plate with Barnett plates in there. They also work a lot better. Graham.

Hi Peter. I look around on the internet a lot for Bultaco trials stuff and I have never seen any metal tank badges for sale. I didn`t even know the M27`s had metal badges. I resprayed an M49 a few months ago and it had plastic ones on it. I don`t know if they were original or not but they look correct. Good luck. Graham.

I have never had a Fantic in half before. I have had the primary case off a 240 Pro before though. I`m putting a couple of Husqvarna MX motors back together at the moment. That is fun as I don`t have a manual and both of them were in bits when they were given to me. The Fantics can`t be too hard though. Cheers Graham.

You will need a set of feeler gauges to set the points correctly. The gap should be .40mm. after that check the plug gap. It should also be .40mm. If you still have no spark then there must be a break in the wires somewhere. Use a multimeter to check the black and the green wires from the ignition up to the coil. Make sure the earth between the top coil and the frame is bare steel. To set the timing you will need a Dial gauge or something similar. Good luck. Graham.

Use a 2 pack primer/filler and then use 2 pack paint as well. Also use a good brand of paint. PPG is great and there are a few other brands which are also very good. Remember preparation is everything. Sand the paint down before you put the stickers and the clear on. Graham.

Wow! I see what you mean.

I`m not sure but the frame looks like it might be a Sammy Miller frame. The engine number will tell you which model engine it is. If it isn`t a Highboy frame then it has been modified a lot. The airbox is a 76 to early 78 one. Models M158/9, M182/3 and a M190/1.

In Motion are the go here. I have 5 and a half inch Renthals on my 3 Sherpas but they also have black steel ones the same as the original Bultaco ones. The bend is basically the same as the Renthals. The Renthals come in either 5.5 and 6 inch height.