sirdabalot

250 Beta's are docile and have a very low 1st gear if you need it, they turn tighter than GG. Personally I prefer the GG handling and clutch operation (when set correctly). Sherco are somewhere in the middle. As always try before you buy.

I thought the same too, as they seem to have ironed out the problems.

I don't own one but the old model will be better in deep water

Done it myself a couple of timed by accident. I now use the champagne cork from my previous weekend victory celebrations, this acts as a pressure relief valve, when the exhaust pressure builds the cork pops across the garage forecourt. Apart from a few strangers with a black eyes, no harm done.

Clean as much dirt off as possible. Get a jack up stand or better, turn the bike upside down. Back wheel off. Get some spanners and Allan keys remove the dog bone linkages and the centre link assembly. Now clean these parts even more and the area surrounding the bearing in the underside of th swinging arm. Push out the bushes, noting which came from where, clean the old grease from the needle bearings, take care not dislodge the needles. Put some waterproof grease on your finger and smooth it into the bearings. Refit the bushes, wipe off excess grease, so dirt won't stick to seals, reassemble and tighten parts to manufacturers spec, or very tight.

No

Whichever chain chosen, I use Wilko's Loosen Up spray after washing, gets rid of water and leaves a light waxy coating. £1 a tin

I wish Polisport, UFO, Acerbis would sell trials plastics, if anything like MX, they'd be better (flexible, unlike Beta) and cheaper.

Mines ok, for now, with a year's use from new, using cheap 95 RON unleaded from anywhere in N.E. England.

Try bleeding it first. My Gas Gas master cylinder seals failed, common problem recently mostly due to poor finishing of the cylinder, the symptoms were that the brake would work fine if the lever was pulled quickly with force, but if it was pulled gently if would creep back to the bars with little brake effect.

Hello and welcome to the trials community. I live in the NE too. A lot of NE clubs regularly incorporate supervised separate sections marked for youths only and will mention if they are on the dates advertised on here. After he gets the hang of riding it won't be long till you can both ride the easy course together and he can tell you where you're going wrong. If you are after a practice area, Warden Law Go-Cart track near Ryhope in Sunderland used to let you ride a day for a tenner on the trials area. Advice on setting the bike up and riding technique would be better from others than from me and I'm sure someone else will post soon.

Got an old pointy heed Airoh and (wrongly) stalling to renew it, cos it's gave no bother and fits like an old slipper

I've used an electric heat gun for the same job, heated and cooled a few times before a final heat then tapping out bolt when still hot

Sad news indeed. I met him through enduros in the 1990's, always gave encouragement and advice when arriving at his time check. There must be thousands that will remember him from enduros alone.

Anything other than legal requirement is a risk you take. Maybe, 'The legal one fell off constable, so I fitted this tiny one to get home', might work.

Thanks for that. It's a mess and a lot of dosh.

NO SPEAKO SPANISHO. Is it as simple as highest bid won?

Laughing gas

And the winner is........

Overhauled mine with a new seal kit and piston 2 weeks ago, the bike has 8 months regular use. I was unable to see any wear or damage on the originals and no sharp edges on the cylinder ports. I don't hold out much hope of long lasting success. It would be different scenario if these were new cars etc.

One of mine did the same. I found that the fuel tap developed a fault. The seal behind the lever locates on a peg. The seal would turn slightly when the tap was turned to on/reserve, this partly blocked the fuel ports in the tap causing fuel starvation. Strip, clean and lube with grease suitable for rubber (brake sesl grease). Check fuel flow from tank by pulling hose from carb till about a litre has drained. Could also be blocked tank vent, tap filter, carb filter (dellorto). Failing all that, strip / clean carb check float and shut off needle condition, adjustment and function. Just re-read your post and see you have tried some of the above. If it has or develops the same fault try tapping the float bowl with a screwdriver handle. If it cures the float may be sticking. I recently drilled out the blank carb vent opposite the one already vented on the carb body following a post on this site. This was to try and cure a fault similar to yours which occasionally happened when charging up hills, usually these had a kick up bump on the way up. So far it's worked. I have one overflow pipe routed up and one down.

Good to see you managed it. Don't forget to cycle through the gears before going further. Is the crankcase lower mounting lug damaged or is it just the photo angle?

I've read horror stories about stripping and repainting magnesium. Do a search.

This time imagine my vocal expression of disbelief ..... HOW MUCH!

HOW MUCH!