guys
Members
-
Joined
-
Last visited
Everything posted by guys
-
The latest message from the factory workers on their Facebook page: 'On Thursday we took our demands to the parliament of Catalonia, invite all colleagues, friends and fans motorcycle world to join us and follow us for the networks in this event. Thank you all for the solidarity and the spirits received these weeks'Did you start the engine between the forward and rearward motion? Otherwise it's something else than the ignition timing...Great place to practice the basicsNice! You're welcome to bother us sir. I'm from the north of Belgium and I've only ridden in two places in Germany, namely Gressenich and the classic trial in Hergenroth. Both are held in nice locations, specially if you live in area that's as flat as a pancake, like me. So I guess Lebach and Kerzenheim would be nice places to ride too. I'll keep an eye out for Andrew and if you happen to run into Maxime Warenghien you can do the same. He's by far the best Belgian rider at the moment but he lives in Switzerland.They are coming to Europe and I wouldn't mind if Napoleon and Steve came alongIt's always nice to see the young guns making progress day by day. Here are some youths at work in Warken: I read somewhere else you were in Warken about one and a half year ago Biff. Did you come all the way from the States just to ride there?WD40 and the similar Brunox Turbo Spray do harm some rubbers. (I think it's because they are petroleum based products) I had to replace a clutch lever seal kit because I thought it was a good idea to lube the pivot points with one of those products, the o-ring was swollen. Regular (engine) oil and grease have less negative effects on rubbers. I've said it before: I don't think it's a good idea to use a product just because it's cheap, get something that is made for the job. I've got Brunox "Deo" to lube rubber seals. It's made for lubing the fork seals of mountain bikes. There are also special lubes that are safe for teflon lined kabels, for instance Shimano chain and cable lubricant.I was sad I couldn't make it, but now not so much anymoreEric Lejeune revving his Honda Twin Twin-shock: https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=395036500675832&set=vb.361529207359895&type=2&theaterhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?t=2091&v=JIHA1Ixy580I usually like to use products for what they are made for. So I wonder why WD40 has brought their own chain lube on the market when ordinary WD40 is the perfect chain lube according to some...10/43 is definitely slow enough for me. And I'll probably go back to 10/42 when I need new chain and sprockets. I'm the same height and the standard bar is fine for me in both ways. But both things are very personal.Some old trials bikes had the predecessor of the Scottoiler. They stored some oil in the swing arm and had a small tap and tube that ended just above the chain. Any good (dirt) bike chain oil/grease will do. I use S100 Weisses kettenspray and have some Castrol Chain Lube Racing wich I will be testing soon. There's already been written a lot on this forum and you'll find a lot of different opinions on the subject. Here's what I found after a small search: http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/51625-what-chain-lube/page-2?hl=%20chain%20%20oilWhat's wrong with both? And have you seen the mud in the Belgian round last year? By the way, in some countries it's forbidden to ride through rivers because of environmental legislation. If you like slippery sections where the riders are constantly footing, you can watch extreme enduro. Don't take this wrong Dadof2, but people wil always find something to nag about. Just listen to the comment at 29:15 'There you can see just how slimy these rocks are. Even the dry one there, doesn't seem to have any grip on. And this quite simply, is Britain's problem, you cannot produce world champions on such conditions.'The difference between a "normal" and a FIM type sprocket from Jitsie is only €10 or £7,3 S3 also sells them: http://www.s3parts.com/product_trial.htmlI think I paid about 300 € for two hubs.Light gear oil 75W, from Putoline GRO or Elf is made for the job and the GRO oil for instance, is recommended by GasGas. Very little drag and smooth clutch. I wouldn't recommend choosing an oil just because it's cheap. The oils might be cheap enough to experiment with, but your gearbox isn't. I'm not against ATF oil but get the right type from the first time. Experimenting with to much different oils could turn out very bad.It will probably look better with the wheel on the bike. But it's a lot of red indeed. I've got a black one on my 4RT and it looks alright. Be careful though, the aluminium that covers the holes is wafer thin.Good thing I didn't take his advice then. And I paid way more to get my hubs relined, down in France (this will teach them: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eep1_tiPOVY )An oldtimer (car) brake specialist told me to just remove the chrome lining and brake on the aluminium surface. It shouldn't give much problems. But I had my Sherpa's brakes relined with a steel ring just to be sure. (This was done in France)
