worldtrialchamp

Does anyone consider cleaning their exhaust out as regular maintenance?

Hi guys Several yrs ago I purchased a good quality compressor, 1/2" drive pnuematic impact gun with single hex sockets, air blower and also a parts washing tub with pump. I use white spirits (not cheap but if the lid is kept on it doesn't evaporate fast) I never stop using them, and they are a great investment. I recently split the cases on my 08 Rev3 to change the crank bearings (I just bought the bike and on first lengthy test ride noticed they were a bit rumbly, looks as though the bike may have been getting started after washing and a small amount of water vapour was entering the airbox and then crankcase-thats my theory, as the rest of the bike/engine is like new). First thing that needs to be done is to wash the exterior of the engine, so that all the grit that builds up on the underside of the case halfs doesn't end up on your work bench.. For removal of the crank mass on LHS I marked the bolt head with a paint pen and zipped it off with a gun, then used a steering wheel puller I had bought for the car (very inexpensive) and the mass came off very easily, the clutch hub I again marked the nut position and zipped it off with impact gun. To split cases I was very patient and with a nylon hammer very gently tap the RHS case half until it starts to slide off the crank bearing.It takes a while and you need to be gentle but as long as you tap it off evenly it will come apart. It took a whole 15mins so its not a long process at all... The LH crank half, well this really does need a pusher tool. I tapped the crankshaft out of the LH casing with the nylon hammer which I am not so comfortable with but didn't have a pusher tool. So long as you suporrt the crank by the LH crank web the impacts of the hammer should not upset the alignment of the crank assembly. If you find you really need to strike the crank heavily to the point its gone way beyond firm blows then I'd be seeking use of a hydraulic press to avoid risking upsetting crankshaft alignment. To reassemble, (after crank bearing replacement) I bought a cheap heat gun and heat the crank bearings in the case halves until crank shaft slides easily into them and the cases come together easily. To retension the clutch hub nut and crank mass I just used the impact gun on medium setting until the paint marks realign again. Would be wonderful to have the holders and use torque wrench but there are ways atround this if you're careful and don't underestimate the strength of the impact gun Throughout this process you can remove the gearbox components which makes it less awkward when removing crankshaft but it can be done without dissasembling gearbox (as I have done given nothing wrong with this gearbox). However, to replace crank bearings I did eventually remove the gearbox components (it all needs washing), otherwise consider leaving them in place..

have done this mod on eight rev 3s ensure clutch lever is Genuine Beta and not bent at all purchase new friction plates, carefully file the tabs smooth remove steel plates and have them linished perfectly flat (even the new ones are not flat) file smooth any gauling on basket tabs Silkolene 'Light Gear Oil' If you ever get any change in oil colour i.e. milky white from water entry, dump the oil immediately (when oil is hot) and refill. Water in the oil swells the friction plate material and no amount of mods will restore them.. go riding

I have fixed one of these at home. bought a Dremel and used it in the drill at home. got enough bolt head metal out until finally the bolt turned. the thread was not seized at all, just the bolt head fused to the alloy swingarm....pretty easy, just be patient, remove a little at a time being careful not to go too far into the alloy....

just rebuilt my 03 Rev3 shock with a new seal kit....was a little bit tricky to assemble but nothing extraordinary....re bleeding, I could see no way to bleed it as described by kasob1964 as there is no access to the shim stacks other than through the tiny ports, and thats not viable once the stack starts to move..perhaps there is a special way but i can't figure it out..anyway, just bled it by working it through its compressed/rebound operating range until the air was expelled...off to get it gassed...fingers crossed about 85ml of oil came out so thats what I put back in (5wt)...re pressure, I am not sure but there wasn't much pressure when I dissassembled it

The dunlops are a little bit tougher to get on (stiffer sidewall) Try leaving it out in the sunshine to warm up if you can. it will become more supple Plenty of thick soapy water around the bead also makes a big difference

over reacting? just clean it and block the holes...get back to what you love doing...riding

Hi Stepbridge As far as i know Keihin only produce one flatslide that will suit - the PWK28 (28mm). You may want to consider other options eg the OKO range of flatslides eg 26mm for the 125cc. Do a google search for a PWK28 or OKO 3040. I keep using an OKO 3040 on my son's bikes. From experience with the 125cc bikes, with the Keihin 28mm you gain power but it comes at the sacrifice of torque and the bikes seem a bit harder to tune. Whereas the 26mm OKO provides crisper power delivery with no noticable torque sacrifice and a more stable tuning platform. Just my opinion, someone else may have found different. Re fitment, PM me if you want more info. WTC

does engine oil contain extreme pressure additives that the gears/gearbox/bearings require?

its yellow!

Alex, if the carb has been fitted 'out of the box' to the existing manifold it probably wont run optimumly. You'll need to fiddle with jetting etc as the noise you're hearing may be a result of incorrect settings, or it may just simply be the sound of a new exhaust system (free of any oil/carbon)

have you seen this?

Grizwald, I think you'll need to try a few different settings as your riding style will determine the best setting for you. Just curious - has yours got a weight on the flywheel? As I have found that the timing marks on the weight don't always align with the marks on the rotor.

Folks, the low down on the rev 3 erosion/corrosion/decay is like this: The reason the casing eats away is because 1) the casing coating is poor and susceptible to 'flaking' around the impeller area and 2) once flaked off the xposed magnesium is eaten away by the alkaline Bardhal coolant (that Beta insists on using probably because it is cheap) and the cavitation action of the impeller driving the coolant onto that/those surfaces. Almost all coolants with Elthylene Glycol are Alkaline and will decay magnesium. Solution: From new, all Beta owners should dump and flush the cooling system and replenish with Motul Factoryline Organic Coolant. This coolant is ph neutral and will not eat the magnesium. Shell also make an 'Organic' coolant but unlike the Motul it is not stated that it suits magnesium cases. I know this from experience. Even a casing that is severly corroded but not yet through to the gearbox is salvagable simply by doing the above.

Rory, regarding http://www.iol.ie/~link/motorcycle/trials.htm did you not know that Google caches old web pages? I can see that you conveniently forgot to mention that you were using their embossed website photo of the TY250R (fitted with OKO) on your website and then [after you contact me by PM] you have published those details as well! Did you seek permission to do this? You certainly didn't ask me.. They were putting heaps of photos of trials bikes with OKOs fitted to help us "fellow bikers". Now they have removed them because you stuffed it for the rest of us trying to get something for nothing. Had you purchased a carburettor from them as I did, there would be no need for you to behave in this manner that has the potential to make all "fellow bikers" look like thieves.. disgusted Graham

mmm, not sure about the 3030. I got a 3030B and the jetting was near enough for two bikes but I am mindful I will need to get a couple of jets to tweak them. I should have bought some when I got the carb. nevermind....

flatslide carby sir! try oko-australia. the dollar has AU$ weakened considerably and their carbs are getting cheaper by the day.....

Guys, I have a TY250R (1991). The exhaust was blocked from front to rear. I burnt it out with an oxy-acetylene (spelling?) torch. It took a lot of work as the centre area was well and truly clogged. If you do this best to be somewhere away from your neighbours as the process will resemble a house on fire. The result was significant. A lot more power and the motor could now rev freely, but it still stuttered. I also found that the crank seals (both) were well worn to the point that the springs had lost their ability to tension the seal, and the lip of the seal of was gone. This also made a big difference to the hot running. Finally I bought an OKO 3030B flatslide carb and this made the biggest difference. Got rid of the pinging (and tendency to surge) and the bike is very smooth and responsive. The carb bolted straight on and I haven't needed to touch it other than the tickover and mixture settings. I would recommend these three mods to anyone with a TY250 monoshock. The total cost was inexpensive and transformed the bike. I am thinking now to cut off the flywheel weight to get a bit more immediate response. Although if you use yours to ride on the road best leave it on I would think. Worldtrialchamp

I have a 1991 model TY250R with the plastic tank. I have attempted to put new decals on it but within a day they have formed hundreds of bubbles underneath. Anyone have any suggestions? Is there something I can prime/seal the tank with to stop the vapour seeping through?

Guys, OKO has supplied me with everything I needed on more than one occasion now. I first tried a PWK28 and then an OKO and honestly, not a scrap of difference! The OKO is more than half the price. All the parts are marked and fully tuneable just like a PWK28. The 3030B can be sourced from oko-australia.com.au Pat, they even have some pictures of the 3030B fitted Regards, Worldtrialchamp

Has anyone put a 28mm flatslide on a 125cc Sherco? I have been lent a carb to try but I have no idea where to start. Will I need to change anything or can I just put it straight on. The carb was on a 280 Gas Gas before. I am a little worried I might damage my engine if the jets are wrong. Any clues?

For a 350cc get yourself an OKO 28 or 30. They are not expensive and come pre-jetted for your bike..this is where I got mine...best money I spent in yrs www.oko-australia.com.au

you need to check for leaks at 6psi lather up soap flakes into a snotty drippy mix, apply it with a paint brush to the area between rim/tyre and also over the spoke nipples. you'll soon see where the leaks are as bubbles will form. If it is the rim area leaking, simply break the bead again, clean tyre and rim and reseat, check at 6psi. You may need to do this a couple of times for success. If leaking from spoke nipples, remove tyre and follow the instructions exactly in this manual http://www.sherco.com.au/downloads/wayne/R...nt%20Manual.pdf

why bother with a Dellorto? Get yourself a flatslide!

the unequal travel is normal