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Hi there even though I've owned one of these from new and trialled it regularly it's something I don't really know. The tank holds only about 3 litres but they don't use much fuel specially in competitions. Certainly miles better than any other bike I've ridden. Guess 40 miles on a tank minimum. Happy trail riding. PS Just checked a Yam YBR 125 does 90mpg so 40 miles for 3 litres of road on a 163 sounds reasonable.

No, but the swingarm has bushes so it's no problem, it's in halves too which have to be separated . Pretty sure you have to remove the drive side of the swingarm to replace the "gearbox" sprocket so it's made to come apart. When I replaced the bearings I think I only did the drive side of the motor or wished I had , I think the internal one was like new and a real pain I really can't mind. The original motor had no seal on the drive shaft, that caused the problem .

Double standards carried out to the letter. Absolutely crazy yet we'll be the cranks for mentioning the reality of the situation.

Don't know why they even bother to make them ,maybe noise considerations but as for the environment it's like taking a dustpan and brush to a tsunami.

Hi MXnut, my son's got a 16 300 and he's as heavy as you the bikes stock . I feel if you're just setting out just leave it alone for the time being, some of our bigger guys (It's Scorpa city here) fit heavier springs on the rear. Personally I don't think it works without altering the front ,it feels like you're too far forward, that's just an opinion. There's bikes have loads of grunt , would run a weight because it suits my style, it'll go lower and I don't need to clutch all the time. As I said, as a new guy just spend some time getting the feel of the bike first, don't get exited it's not like MX where suspension is a big issue, it's more a personal preference. Hope this helps.

I paid less than that for mine when it wasn't much more than a year old,

There's not many around so breaking it might not work also they all seem to have similar problems. Thing is they're worth very little so any major repair has to be questioned. My 14 sounds like it needs mains which wouldn't normally worry me but it's done nothing since the last re build . At 56 I really am past fiddling with bikes, I've got a puncture on the boys Beta this morning and even that's a chore these days. My advice sell it as a project and take the hit , life's too short to worry about these things.

Well you've got Iain Clark at Strath worried, he's moving over to the Chinese TW, looks like he's spat the dummy out and I'm blaming you for setting the bar too high in quality bike restoration . At least he knows when he's beat.

You're the man John,and tell DIY if he had any decency he would have strimmed those weeds for the photo.

Here's the deal in my domain, most buy a Scorpa because the dealer bends over backwards to help the riders. I'm not saying for a minute there better than anything else but if you need something or some help it's there . Depends what you value, a bike that is a bit more suited to your style or great backup. Also our local TRS dealer is a great guy too .

Agree but if he was using a pair of rock hard Pirelli/Dunlop/Avon tyres from that era he could make a fool of himself.

What I would say is everything on the bike has to work correctly,even TB wouldn't get far with a sticky throttle and no brakes.The twinshock you watched likely cost more to sort out. than a new bike so don't be fooled into thinking it's some original old gird.

I see what you mean, was 10% when first came out.

They all seem too expensive to me but the VATs a killer so it's really about £3300 plus vat, Also if it needs tyres (Scorpa comes with Mitas) or other stuff that's not 100% comp ready this might make it pricey? I thought about a new Scorpa but I'm getting to that age where a new back tyre might see me off.,

There's plenty clearance and I do set it in a bit for his wee stubby hands,he doesn't even notice it but I know it's not right. Originally I thought it was the piston/seal in the master cly which has been changed and didn't make any difference. I'm thinking the seal in the slave cyl is sticky?

Hi folks I've got this 2016 evo 80 and it's like the clutch springs struggle to push the fluid back when you release the clutch. It does return but not snappy like it should ,it's like the hose it kinked . It's had a few new hoses and a new master cyl as he crashes a lot but this feels like a slave cyl problem, has anyone had a similar problem? Oh and he doesn't slip the clutch so it's like new. Cheers.

As soon as J D's Beta sells on Ebay he's of to Florida, Vertigo must have breathed a sigh of relief when Dougie lost this year,wouldn't have got in the factory for old Vertigos. Anyway this is no help .

Ground clearance isn't the big deal it once was, modern riding style means you wheelie and hop over most stuff so an inch or so clearance doesn't make any odds. Suspension moves that much that on full compression I bet there's not much more than 6 inches of clearance so everything's academic. Anyway isn't a Beta motor a lot wider than a TRS?

My guess is the cork crankcase stuffers are expanding and rubbing against the casings,it'll ride like you're back brakes sticking on. I think this is a known problem and sadly requires an engine strip . I've a 16 80 that does it occasionaly at the minute I'm getting away with it as it's only used for playing. I heard leaving the fuel on causes the cork stuffers to expand when it fills the crankcase so make sure it's always switched off when left. Must be plenty know about this.

Can't do a pic but how the clips go in to the holes in the top of the airbox is a bit of a guddle. Doesn't matter what way they go as they're symmetrical. Important thing is fit the filter to the air box lid first then put it in , the highest bits on the lid where the clips locate must go to the front.. I don't think I've both clips on mine the lid's pretty tight fit even without the clips ,never had any problem with sealing. Cheers. PS they're the same as the old 2t Scorpa sy 250 if anyone has an image of that.

I agree, you have to run the Dunlops about 3psi to get a bite, loads of Dunlops up here but it's mainly rock. I ride kind of light for an old guy and I think they're happier with an aggressive style, not for me .

Hello S10, I've ridden a load of these over the years some with aftermarket pipes and modified silencers. I really never noticed any difference other than some are bit louder. You can't really clean the original up as it'll rust quickly so a nice shiny new one would be a good idea. If you want more power better get a big bore kit say a 163 ,but I would just keep it stock unless you're planning on a competing. Have fun, they're great bikes.

Sorry I wasn't clear meant hello from the East Coast . See you're looking for a bike? Our local lad Duncan Wood 01333 311744 is worth a call, mind you he's 70 today so he might be busy.

Hi Haggis, from the East coast. You're certainly in the right country and choose a great area if non stop rain's your thing.

When I watch the boy on the 20r he's no real issue with the power delivery. what I notice is the "snatchiness" at very low speeds as the chain takes up slack. I suppose they don't run a tensioner as it would wreck the motor bearings but you wouldn't run a petrol bike without one.Keeping the chain correctly tensioned will help this but wont solve the issue,maybe a very lighty sprung tensioner would work?