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My guess is the cork crankcase stuffers are expanding and rubbing against the casings,it'll ride like you're back brakes sticking on. I think this is a known problem and sadly requires an engine strip . I've a 16 80 that does it occasionaly at the minute I'm getting away with it as it's only used for playing. I heard leaving the fuel on causes the cork stuffers to expand when it fills the crankcase so make sure it's always switched off when left. Must be plenty know about this.

Can't do a pic but how the clips go in to the holes in the top of the airbox is a bit of a guddle. Doesn't matter what way they go as they're symmetrical. Important thing is fit the filter to the air box lid first then put it in , the highest bits on the lid where the clips locate must go to the front.. I don't think I've both clips on mine the lid's pretty tight fit even without the clips ,never had any problem with sealing. Cheers. PS they're the same as the old 2t Scorpa sy 250 if anyone has an image of that.

I agree, you have to run the Dunlops about 3psi to get a bite, loads of Dunlops up here but it's mainly rock. I ride kind of light for an old guy and I think they're happier with an aggressive style, not for me .

Hello S10, I've ridden a load of these over the years some with aftermarket pipes and modified silencers. I really never noticed any difference other than some are bit louder. You can't really clean the original up as it'll rust quickly so a nice shiny new one would be a good idea. If you want more power better get a big bore kit say a 163 ,but I would just keep it stock unless you're planning on a competing. Have fun, they're great bikes.

Sorry I wasn't clear meant hello from the East Coast . See you're looking for a bike? Our local lad Duncan Wood 01333 311744 is worth a call, mind you he's 70 today so he might be busy.

Hi Haggis, from the East coast. You're certainly in the right country and choose a great area if non stop rain's your thing.

When I watch the boy on the 20r he's no real issue with the power delivery. what I notice is the "snatchiness" at very low speeds as the chain takes up slack. I suppose they don't run a tensioner as it would wreck the motor bearings but you wouldn't run a petrol bike without one.Keeping the chain correctly tensioned will help this but wont solve the issue,maybe a very lighty sprung tensioner would work?

Hello, I've got a 20r with a lithium battery which is mainly used for practice. My 13year old rarely has it spinning as I think his extra weight helps a lot as the bike weighs nothing. Just a suggestion but is there any way of moving the footrests back mine has bolted on brackets which give about an inch but there's plenty room on the frame to move them further back.

It's a funny old sport for sure, I think most riders only judge themselves against a few others, just the few they feel they should keep up with the rest of the entry are of no concern. Anyway, if you don't enter the A/Championship class your admitting defeat before you start so what's the big deal. Frankly the bikes are a bit ott and most would ride just as well on an old Yamaha mono with decent tyres ,for the average rider it's just been progress for it's own sake for years . I certainly wouldn't want go back to a ty as I'm as lazy as the rest of you on the forum that should have packed in 20 years ago,be happy to go with a reduction in tyre width though.

Are you Scottish by any chance? All trials are subsidised to a massive degree. At our club no one takes expenses even though they've spent a day laying out and a day off work which is likely quite common in the trials world. At the Wobblers food ,toilets, stationary, markers you name it just appears thanks to the goodwill of members and I imagine most clubs have members like these. Anyone questioning an entry fee should really consider what the true cost of an entry would be if we didn't all band together and help out. Be interesting to do the sums and work out what a commercial operation would need to charge for an entry, I would hazard about £40.

Only tip I would give is that if you ride on the balls of your feet you can get your weight a lot further back, certainly makes more difference than a few mill on the stanchions

You're fiddling, I'm not telling you how to take it out as mine's never been out in 12 years nor has any part of the engine other than the carb been removed. Never ridden one that runs any better than mine some are different but not an improvement, the limiting factor on these bikes is lack of ground clearance. It will ground on stuff that other bikes clear easily so you've really got to work at keeping the front wheel light. Get out and play you'll never wear this bike out they're great.

We didn't have a world championship until about 75 ,every sport seems to need a world championship there days from tiddlywinks to Yachting and beyond,it's nonsense.

Interesting so we've gone from an 80 mile lap, 80 sections to a half mile stunt show over some rubble!

The beauty of trials it's all about participation , moving on, ND say's the Scott will never be a WTC round fair enough, but am I correct in saying it was once part of the British Championship?

The beauty is that you don't need a new bike.Beta still run a motor that Noah used on the ark and the 4rts aren't much newer. Only valid reason for a new bike is less maintenance.

Agree sounds like there's not enough oil in them .

So we've went backwards. never used to have any bother ,pistons , barrels ran for ever and always seemed to run fine. Now if you keep a bike a while they fill up with gunge carbs seem to go out of tune all the time there's always oil lying about motors even if you run them lean. I don't believe any modern oils are made with slow running cold 2t engines in mind and if they have they've not been tested in my back yard.

Anyone out there post a photo of a Gold Star BSA in Trials Trim or Hugh Viney's AJS . You can't really compete with bikes of that era.

Purpose made I consider my Yamaha TTr generator engine fitted in the Scorpa far superior to any current disposable offering. Pity it only gives you about 10 inches of clearance.

Are we related by any chance?

Hi Nastys, a 250 Scorpa will do all you need.If you've a good local dealer don't go by them and it's being patriotic. Trials bikes are nothing like MXers they're pretty mellow in comparison. 125s need more technique to get the best out of them and 300s are just a bit too much at times, plus 250s sell better. Now go and get that bike.

Hello, I've got your bikes double and have run it since new. There's no oil filter just change it every 20 rides or so and watch and not strip the drain bolt. The filters are common to most Scorpas 0f that era 2ts too so any decent trials shop should stock them the air box is good but tape the space between the exhaust and the mudguard and where the the box and mudguard meet. Trust me you wont need a manual nothing goes wrong but they're the same motor as the TT125. The captive nut that holds the tank is a pain mine still works can't really suggest anything. Never checked the valve clearances and I'll bet mines done more Trials than any single bike in Scotland so no help here. Bikes no power until it's warm, always been that way but once hot fine, most fiddle with jetting but mine is stock and runs better than any of the others I've tried. Just ride it and forget about it wish mine looked as good as yours,

I've got a couple of 80s and they do get well used, but even if they were ornaments there's little depreciation on them so it's kind of pointless selling them even if you only use them occasionally . It is a problem because there's nothing like them in the sections they're really good. We kind of need a cheapie starter bike for kids or even adults but there's nothing.

Hi lwd, got 2 of these 80s and never thought to seal the exhaust and it does make a right mess. I run 60ml oil to 5 l of fuel and this helps a bit but it's probably weaker than some would like. The silencers get a heavy time as every time you drop them on the left they tend to bend so could be tricky to seal plus the amount of oil that seems to build up in them is bad enough. They just run really cold unless you give them a roasting. Looks like the standard shock will swap between bikes but not 100%. Lock stops? these things will out turn anything the handlings spot on if you can use all the lock you'll be good enough to bounce it. Weakest points are the spacers between the wheel bearings on the SW if you tighten the spindles the spacers mushroom and draw the bearings into the hubs causing major problems. Also the hubs are really soft. Clutch hose is really exposed at the slave cyl we've snapped two and they're not cheap. Great bike and I can't see any youngster needing any more bike. Cheers.