breagh

In reality what will happen is the mudguard will come loose from the stay, this is fairly common. Couple of years ago I rode across a big moor at the SSDT on a Scorpa and noticed as I hit "civilisation" (it's Lochaber about 1973) the mudguard fall off. First person I met was Murdo Mc Phail a legend up here who looked at me held out his hand and said " you want these"? Loads of bikes had just shaken the mudguards loose on the moor.

The problem with these old things is the actuator arm bends out of shape and no amount of adjustment helps. Back in the day we used to reinforce the arm, someone out there might have a photo. The slave cyl is pretty basic and a standard kit should be an easy fit. Never heard of anyone converting one to a cable though I can't see it being a big deal. Maybe google an image to see how the set up should look. All the best.

Just a guess, but I do own 2 of these Beta's. The exhaust and silencers fill up with oil as they don't run hot enough to burn it away.It's not helped by riders constantly "blipping" the throttle and stop start riding which is common in the younger age group. I run about 50ml of 2t to 4 L which is about 80.1which helps . While I'm on leaking petrol taps are common (Always switch them off) they Make a nice job of filling the crank with fuel and this really adds to the problem . Cheers the noo.

Hi there even though I've owned one of these from new and trialled it regularly it's something I don't really know. The tank holds only about 3 litres but they don't use much fuel specially in competitions. Certainly miles better than any other bike I've ridden. Guess 40 miles on a tank minimum. Happy trail riding. PS Just checked a Yam YBR 125 does 90mpg so 40 miles for 3 litres of road on a 163 sounds reasonable.

Totally agree with the tyres,still using the same size as my dad had on his Gold Star BSA,.there's been no attempt to limit the development. Fact is riders now ride stop start style as they've the grip to do this, you wouldn't dare stop on an old rock hard Avon.

My solution would be to make only half of the Championship sections severe and the other half suitable for National level. Ok most would have to take 5s at the harder stuff but there would be sections they would clean and not humiliate themselves with a card of 5s. That way everyone could "ride" the same route . Can't see why this wouldn't work and everyone would be happy.

No, but the swingarm has bushes so it's no problem, it's in halves too which have to be separated . Pretty sure you have to remove the drive side of the swingarm to replace the "gearbox" sprocket so it's made to come apart. When I replaced the bearings I think I only did the drive side of the motor or wished I had , I think the internal one was like new and a real pain I really can't mind. The original motor had no seal on the drive shaft, that caused the problem .

Double standards carried out to the letter. Absolutely crazy yet we'll be the cranks for mentioning the reality of the situation.

Don't know why they even bother to make them ,maybe noise considerations but as for the environment it's like taking a dustpan and brush to a tsunami.

You can't be interested in something you don't know exists.

Said this loads Trials is like a secret society, how does any unknowing member of the public discover trials other than by accident . Only the clubs and a few well meaning dealers push the boat a bit, as for the makers nothing. It's a wonder any bikes get sold.

Hi MXnut, my son's got a 16 300 and he's as heavy as you the bikes stock . I feel if you're just setting out just leave it alone for the time being, some of our bigger guys (It's Scorpa city here) fit heavier springs on the rear. Personally I don't think it works without altering the front ,it feels like you're too far forward, that's just an opinion. There's bikes have loads of grunt , would run a weight because it suits my style, it'll go lower and I don't need to clutch all the time. As I said, as a new guy just spend some time getting the feel of the bike first, don't get exited it's not like MX where suspension is a big issue, it's more a personal preference. Hope this helps.

I paid less than that for mine when it wasn't much more than a year old,

There's not many around so breaking it might not work also they all seem to have similar problems. Thing is they're worth very little so any major repair has to be questioned. My 14 sounds like it needs mains which wouldn't normally worry me but it's done nothing since the last re build . At 56 I really am past fiddling with bikes, I've got a puncture on the boys Beta this morning and even that's a chore these days. My advice sell it as a project and take the hit , life's too short to worry about these things.

Well you've got Iain Clark at Strath worried, he's moving over to the Chinese TW, looks like he's spat the dummy out and I'm blaming you for setting the bar too high in quality bike restoration . At least he knows when he's beat.

You're the man John,and tell DIY if he had any decency he would have strimmed those weeds for the photo.

Here's the deal in my domain, most buy a Scorpa because the dealer bends over backwards to help the riders. I'm not saying for a minute there better than anything else but if you need something or some help it's there . Depends what you value, a bike that is a bit more suited to your style or great backup. Also our local TRS dealer is a great guy too .

Agree but if he was using a pair of rock hard Pirelli/Dunlop/Avon tyres from that era he could make a fool of himself.

What I would say is everything on the bike has to work correctly,even TB wouldn't get far with a sticky throttle and no brakes.The twinshock you watched likely cost more to sort out. than a new bike so don't be fooled into thinking it's some original old gird.

I see what you mean, was 10% when first came out.

They all seem too expensive to me but the VATs a killer so it's really about £3300 plus vat, Also if it needs tyres (Scorpa comes with Mitas) or other stuff that's not 100% comp ready this might make it pricey? I thought about a new Scorpa but I'm getting to that age where a new back tyre might see me off.,

There's plenty clearance and I do set it in a bit for his wee stubby hands,he doesn't even notice it but I know it's not right. Originally I thought it was the piston/seal in the master cly which has been changed and didn't make any difference. I'm thinking the seal in the slave cyl is sticky?

Hi folks I've got this 2016 evo 80 and it's like the clutch springs struggle to push the fluid back when you release the clutch. It does return but not snappy like it should ,it's like the hose it kinked . It's had a few new hoses and a new master cyl as he crashes a lot but this feels like a slave cyl problem, has anyone had a similar problem? Oh and he doesn't slip the clutch so it's like new. Cheers.

As soon as J D's Beta sells on Ebay he's of to Florida, Vertigo must have breathed a sigh of relief when Dougie lost this year,wouldn't have got in the factory for old Vertigos. Anyway this is no help .

Ground clearance isn't the big deal it once was, modern riding style means you wheelie and hop over most stuff so an inch or so clearance doesn't make any odds. Suspension moves that much that on full compression I bet there's not much more than 6 inches of clearance so everything's academic. Anyway isn't a Beta motor a lot wider than a TRS?