2stroke4stroke

I have seen an excellent new tank, made in France or Germany I think. Modern materials (seems to resist ethanol) and super replica of a Mk 1 tank. Presumably they do Mk 11s also. Somebody on here must have details I'm sure.

Looking at that video either the bike has been set up with far far too much slack in the cable or something is causing the throttle mechanism not to bottom out on the stop thus resulting in the excessively high tick over and concomitant slack in the cable compared to what you had before. Too high a tickover would also explain the poor starting.

There's also the factor that a modern fork action is not what the original specification was intended to produce so experimentation may be necessary to suit individual requirements.

Made by Regina, but to Renthal specification I believe, so not just a packaging job.

You could do as suggested above, or having spun it over with the plug out and throttle open, then try to start it with the throttle fully open and petrol off. That's how we used to solve the problem with early Bultos etc that often gassed up, as we referred to it.

I'd suspect something causing the shaft to move, possibly something getting between the kickstart gears. Better investigate once the case is off.

Rattling like a bag of spanners was pretty much the norm for these bikes in the Seventies. Indeed somebody trying to sell me one actually claimed the horrendous noise from the motor was the spanners rattling in the toolbox.

Maybe Beta have it right - they seem to sell very well in the clubman market, which has to be bigger than the would be trials ace market that must have the latest thing. Perhaps the clubman prefers consistency rather than big change. There's a lot to be said for a proven machine, notwithstanding some comparatively minor but well known issues. I daresay the UK importer has a lot to do with it as they seem to be highly regarded for customer service compared to other importers.

A decent paint supplier can scan and match any colour.

New fork oil!

No it wouldn't, I have had a 125 ml tin of Heldite for years and used it on various things (bikes, plumbing projects, kicking the tin over) and there is still plenty left. If you think 11 quid (it may be much dearer in France of course) is too much to sort your problem then you're maybe in the wrong sport (and I'm a typical tight trials rider, disinclined to unnecessary expenditure). Lidl and Aldi do boxes of O rings from time to time at little cost (probably less than a pair of genuine ones).

I found a suggestion on here to use Heldite on the leaking nipple heads to be very successful.

You'll also need to cut some serrations in those footrests, those pimples won't do much.

I used fill it right up then put a clear tube down to the required level (top of body of radiator) then sook out the surplus with a syringe. But any excess would be expelled anyway.

Use a screwdriver and the heel of your hand to undo the cap.

I was talking generically, never having done aTY exhaust, we had to do our road bikes fairly frequently running at 16:1 as they were. The area you have highlighted looks like the most likely spot to me - I would do the back side for the sake of appearance. I imagine old TY exhausts must be available cheaply on the net, given that most Yams seem to use alloy systems now, if you overdo things.

We used to bung up one end of an exhaust then fill it with caustic soda solution to decoke it. Will need repacking after that of course.

Fetch it along to Kidlaw on Sunday and we can have a look.

Indeed, i know someone who had problems as the inspector was clued up enough to spot period Norton forks on a BSA (a standard mod in the day).

Will it go if you bump start it down the hill when hot?

You could always put a tube in if sealing is a problem, if you really like the tyre that much.

I'm sure you'll get some response to that one jossy.

I used a Dremel to remove the glue - cuts the time. Putting the bike against a wall is a bit brutal, I thought motocrossers lacked mechanical sympathy☺. Engage first, whilst pushing off with the foot, keep the clutch lever held in and go up the box. When you hit fourth the clutch will free and you can release the lever.

I thoroughly recommend No Toil Filter Oil. Washes out easily with washing powder in water so can be done in the sink yet works well (you will know the old saying that involves a blanket).

I meant to say - there is plenty info on the web about making a bead breaker from two lengths of old timber and a hinge.