2stroke4stroke

If you have pushed the pistons all the way in you may have difficulty getting a bleed. But try putting a plastic pipe on the bleed nipple and tapping the caliper to persuade the air out. Or you could try forcing fluid through from the caliper with a syringe.

Push the pistons out a bit (caliper off the bike), clean the surface then spray with silicon lube. Work pistons in and out a bit and they should free off. Give a final spray of the silcon, remove the surplus then replace pads and fit to bike. The silicon lubes the seals and prevents dirt getting a hold on the metal bits.

My inference was perhaps not strong enough - I was using the previous version. I'm sure others get results with them, maybe I've been too reliant on the performance of Michelin for these decades.

Another essential - slacken off the pinch bolts on the top yoke before unscrewing the fork top nut.

Well Allan they've surely got to be better than the previous version. I always prefer Michelin but (I'll not bore you with how I came to have a Dunlop on) at your last trial I dropped 48 on the first lap due to lack of grip. Fortunately I'd taken the spare wheel with the Michelin - swapping reduced my score to 5. 'nuff said.

Can't PM you vickej but this post has reminded me that I have a set of original alloy guards from a 1970 model that should fit. You won't be in a panic but get in touch if you eventually think you might want them.

I suppose if you really can't do without the light then this is a way to have a flat number board with no disadvantage. I've seen the bottle thing before. Sorry if this seems harsh but I just do not understand the logic behind paying a lot of money for a highly developed bike then strapping a one pound weight to one side of the steering. At least when Yrjo Vesterinen put lead weights on the Bultaco forks way back when he did it so as not to unbalance the steering. Is there not a way of strapping the bottle to the handlebar brace so that it is central if you can't carry a bag?

I remember doing the Lakes 2 Day long ago and there was a fair bit of snow on the fells but the club had salted the rock sections so they were OK.

I did similar but cut round the weld then had a thin sleeve welded on so it would slide over the body of the silencer. Done at work so it only cost a jubilee clip! Very effective.

Not expensive, but may be a bit dazzling.http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Generation-XM-L2-X2-Cree-LED-Bike-Bicycle-MTB-Light-Cycling-Lights-UK-Stock-/161362759435?pt=UK_SportGoods_CyclAcces_RL&var=&hash=item2591f84f0b

That's basically what I was saying - the liquidator gets his fee first.

The real world doesn't work that way. If the worst comes to the worst with any business there's only one person that gets paid, the rest have to split what's left.

I would expect a good bead of silicon seal between the faces to keep that oiltight.

I would shortcut that process and save some money and hassle. Most TYs were registered so yours probably was/is. There is a form you can send to DVLA with the frame number and £25 to get a replacement registration doc. From DVLA "If you have acquired a vehicle without a registration number and have reason to believe it is registered you will need to complete a V62 Application form for a Registration Certificate (V5C). You will need to attach a covering letter explaining the registration number is unknown but you have reason to believe the vehicle has been registered. You must also confirm in the letter that the vehicle is complete and available for inspection. It is mandatory that the VIN/chassis number is completed on the V62 or the application will be rejected. Please be aware that there is a charge of £25 for a V5C Registration Certificate. Please submit the V62 with a covering letter"

Enduro bikes are great for good/aggressive riders. If you think getting up a muddy hill is hard on a trials bike then it's more difficult on an enduro bike as, if you get in to trouble, the seat height prevents you getting a good push from a dab (I have a few seasons of enduro riding years ago on which I base this opinion). On the other hand modern trials bikes are harder than twinshocks to get up muddy hills as you can't sit down to get weight over the back wheel once you are struggling. There's a knack to riding mud - I would suggest better value for the money than buying another bike is to give yourself a birthday treat and attend a Steve Saunders school - nobody rides mud better than he.

I wouldn't fret about a genuine TL motor. We're all accustomed now to riding trials bikes with power characteristics that would have been viewed askance in those days. Someone up here has fitted a modern CBR 125 motor, complete with electric start, in to a Gas Gas frame. I suspect the extra power is more of an advantage than the road based gearbox is a disadvantage.

No idea on oil level in the frame but, if memory serves, there is a level plug for the gearbox and it is located concentric with the drain plug. Fairly sure there's a level plug for the chaincase but can't remember if you remove a casing screw or what.

So fast as to erase memory. Not fast on trials gearing but can easily be geared up. Though having said that I recall Mick Wikinson telling the audience at one of Wrighty's evenings that he and Rob Edwards didn't seem able to lose Debbie Evans on a TY 175 when they were racing round the Scottish.

Those couldn't have been standard brakes

The 200 is designed to be what it is and a fast action throttle is inconsistent with the ethos of the bike but it won't cost a lot to try one out. I find the standard gearing fine even in such tight stuff as I occasionally ride. I know someone who always uses second gear so I don't think the gearing is generally regarded as high. By lowering the gearing you have effectively reduced the available "oomph" as, gear for gear, it will run out of revs at a lower speed. Mine came with a 41 tooth rear sprocket (as per the 250, put on by the previous owner) and when I put the correct 42 on it made an appreciable difference in slow going and indeed overall, and, to me, is perfectly geared (and I tend to ride too slowly). Dropping one at the front is roughly equivalent to going four up at the back so you have reduced the gearing quite a bit. I suggest you go to the standard gearing of 11/42. It's common to find the 41 has been put on as that size is more commonly available. I think folk just ask for "a sprocket for a Beta". Standard gearing gives me four gears for sections, indeed I have used fifth in exceptional sections before now, so the bike does not need the "assistance" of very low gearing. But we all have our own riding style and yours may suit such, though I know you are still developing a riding style. More years experience than I should have tells me that a delay on the power coming in is down to me not opening the throttle soon enough, a failing I don't seem to be able to get rid of.

I know people who used TYs for daily transport, as well as riding in trials, back in the day.

It doesn't make you a wierdo, and there's nothing wrong with it I suppose but it does make you , for a trials rider, uncharacteristically spendthrift :-) Most of us, of a certain vintage at least, are traditionally as tight as that part of a duck's anatomy when it comes to anything less than essential.

You automatically change a piston regardless? Do you have a road racing background?

You might get breathalysed on the quayside :-) That may be the more likely problem in the experience of those I know.

Far too close coupled - handling would be appalling.