wheelieman14

Interested in getting this for 2003 SY250 & gladly pay postage to 06085 (Unionville, CT USA)

A couple of us '16 Beta EVO 300 2T riders modified the white Domino "Fast-Action" Throttle tubes with a couple hacksaw blades taped together to cut a groove for throttle cable to pivot around a slightly lower (3mm) O.D. and blend the cut back to full height at 1/4 turn (90 degrees) to make a "Slow-to-Fast" action throttle. Gives us an advantage of having much more control just off idle - without having to turn the throttle as far as installing slow-action throttle. This modification, along with adding 1 or 2 teeth to use a slightly larger rear sprocket; has worked so well, that I decided not to bother with heavier Flywheel (Super Smooth has heavier flywheel and 9T front sprocket that REALLY tames down the 300).

Watch 2 or 3 people ride your line in a Section, to make sure you can identify exactly where the front wheel needs to be; to get the rear wheel to get over/around any obstacles in the tighter turns. Have Fun and don't take this sport too seriously. Elbows out and hands loose on the bars. Look up to see where you want to go and don't fixate on what is just in front of your front wheel. Any time spent going as slow as you can in 1st gear (even in a paved driveway) will help you with the required balance to excel at MotoTrials.

I measured black (slow) throttle tube to be 25 mm Outside Diameter, where throttle cable is rubbing against, which takes about 120 degrees to turn throttle to wide open. I also measured white (fast) Domino Throttle tube to be 31.4mm O.D. - creating a "quick turn" action; since it only takes 98 degrees to open carb slide. With about 26.1 to 26.5mm of carb slide movement, Black (slow) takes 4.6 degrees to move slide 1 mm and White (fast) takes only 3.7 degrees to move slide 1 mm. Personally, I prefer a slow action throttle from idle to about 1/4 throttle (makes a huge difference in throttle control in tight slow sections). I also like the ability to get to wide open much faster with a fast throttle (not having to turn throttle 120 degrees). My solution was to cut down height of white plastic where cable attaches, by 3 mm - cutting groove with 2 hacksaw blades taped together and blending the cut to flush at about 90 degrees (where throttle cable rests at full throttle). A "modified" Domino White "Fast" throttle tube to be "Slow to Fast" seems to be working very well for me on Beta Evo 300 without a Flywheel weight.

For the better part of 2 years, I was using Silkolene SX Pro2 (higher flashpoint than Motul 710 2T) at 80:1 and kept struggling to get good spark plug readings using 95 to 98 octane equivalent with mix of 1 to 2 parts 108-110 Octane leaded race fuel with 3 parts 91 octane non-ethanol pump gas in Trials bike. I recently switched over to Motul 710 2T pre-mix at 80:1 and now find it much easier to get the carb jetting dialed in and near perfect spark plug readings on my Trials bike. I'd prefer to keep using around 64:1 on my 250cc 2T Woods bikes that are typically run at much higher engine rpms, but 80:1 is best for Trials bikes as heffergm mentioned above.

A good indication for me that I picked the correct class, is finishing with an Index (total points dropped / sections ridden) of .500 or less. If my Index is .75 to 1.0+, then it could still be the correct class for me, but perhaps the conditions deteriorated quickly or rain changed traction. If I get more than 2.0 points per section average, then I feel I was in too hard of a class and need to drop down a level, or practice more to improve. I started Senior C in August 2015, felt pretty good and bumped up to Senior B in May 2016. Worked an event watching Senior Intermediate and thought their lines were within my abilities. Quickly found out that some locations have much harder Intermediate lines that others and got frustrated finishing in last place, so dropped back to SR-B and started having fun again. Decided to stick with SR-B for championship chase in 2017, with occasional attempts at Intermediate at out of region events, to pick up my skills a bit quicker.

Thanks for the replies. This must be an early 2012, because it doesn't have the newer design that includes fixer nut. Found a couple pieces of shifter drum and/or shift shaft pawl that broke off. Some abnormal wear on the clutch drive/driven gears and seems like a good job for an OSSA Shop like LewisportUSA.com - assuming that parts are still available somewhere.

Friend's 2012 Ossa TR280 got stuck in 1st gear after a crash, so we decided to help him try and remove the "5" 3mm allen bolts holding the cassette transmission/clutch assembly. We finally got all 5 bolts out, but now we are puzzled by some reference to "clutch fixer nut". Removed crankcase breather elbow from just in front of front sprocket and not having any luck to figure out how to secure a hollow passageway to remove LH-thread fixer nut, or even where it is located. Has anyone else ever pulled Ossa cassette transmission & what did you do to remove after 5 bolts are out? Tried hitting countershaft (with sprocket removed) with dead blow plastic mallet, but shaft seems like there is another step we are missing...

Hence the reason why I gladly upgraded my 2012 to a 2016 with relatively low hours.

Having tried Michelin X-Light, X11 Competition (came on '16 Beta Evo 300) and Dunlop D803GP, I've noticed even a worn X11 provides some pretty amazing grip, but doesn't seem to be available option to purchase in USA. I've also used a couple sets of D803GP and when the pressure is properly set for the conditions - feel the Dunlop is just as good as either Michelin model for significantly less money. I watched a video from RYPUSA putting aluminum tape (4 layers) on a Morad rim to get a better seal at the bead and help prevent slow leaks with tubeless rear trials tires. I use generous amounts of "tire slick" tire mounting lube and seem to get a better seal than new tires installed from the (Beta) Factory. having reversed direction of rear tire at 28 hours ride time.

Nice job on making appropriate adapters to fit your GasGas rear wheel to Beta!

It would be nice if there was an aftermarket kit to adapt various wheels between different manufacturers. FWIW, I measured '12 GasGas TXT Racing rear hub at about 143mm (5-5/8") wide, compared to 155.5mm (6-1/8") for my '16 Beta Evo 2T. Since the GG rear hub is about 12.5mm (1/2") narrower, I think you need to relocate brake rotor & sprocket further out as you suggested. Perhaps it is worth starting a thread for possible wheel swaps...

I rode 5 events in 2015 (Senior-C) & 17 events in 2016 (Mix of Senior-INT, Intermediate, INT-45, Senior-B & SR-55). Hooked up with local Trials Club that rides every Sunday (weather permitting). Plan on attempting to ride SR-Clubman at NATC Eastern Region Nationals & Senior-B in NETA. If all goes well, I could compete in 20 or more events in 2017 and probably work/ride another 30-40 days helping to set up sections with my local club. I'm pretty content riding Novice, Sportsman or Intermediate lines, depending on weather and degree of difficulty on sections. Probably never get up to "Expert" level, since I started this sport in my late 50's.

Dan touched on a few points... Dave replaced his "twitchy TRS" with another Beta; saying he felt more comfortable on the Beta. Jacek replaced his Beta with a TRS 300 and has really improved his skills on this bike. Giancarlo and Stu both seem to enjoy their Vertigo bikes and I expect to see more Beta, GasGas, TRS and Vertigo bikes at MotoTrials events in Northeastern US - because the sport seems to be growing and more people are getting involved in MotoTrials. I've had a great learning experience with my GG TXT 280 Racing over the past 16 months & now look forward to understanding the subtle differences on the Beta Evo 300 (thinking everything is "reversed" with left foot, kick start, right side drive chain, etc.) Bottom line is to try a few different models and find one that you like! With enough practice, I feel very comfortable static balancing in place on either the GG or Beta. As long as a good maintenance routine is followed; any of the modern bikes should provide many years of enjoyment and endless smiles! Whatever bike you end up with, make friends with others that have the same bike. Everyone seems very willing to share their ideas of how to "tweak" them for the best performance and suspension settings.

There is a fix pinned to top of Beta forum that explains how to clean (file out) glue between raised surfaces of friction plates; allowing better access to oil flow between clutch plates and helps resolve the problem you are describing. Here is link: http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/28407-the-beta-clutch-fix/

Thanks for the tip on Superfeet insoles Dan! I ordered a set of Green Superfeet insoles with more pronounced arch and it makes a huge difference in comfort level of my Gaerne Balance Oiled Boots that really have no arch support to speak of. Looking forward to trying them outdoors, but content right now with my indoor balancing practice :-)

http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/28764-hebo-aux-fuel-tank/ previous discussion. I've used it on my GasGas mounted to front forks with siphon hose connected to tank breather hose and it worked great. Gives about an extra litre of pre-mix and you can watch it drain out of extra tank, before your main fuel tank empties.

JetsRus.com in USA sells them. Called TokyoMods Sump Drain Bold in different colors for $25.95. Here is a link: https://jetsrus.com/individual_parts/024_230M_su.html listing as 17.5mm thread, but pretty sure it fits most all Keihin carbs.

I noticed that at the Northern California SACTOPITS.ORG event; virtually everyone had a spark arrestor installed in their exhaust. Here on the East Coast, this doesn't seem to be a requirement; though a good idea during the dry season with high fire warning levels. The ones I saw in California seemed to be inserted into the end of exhaust and looked like they could be removed fairly easily and cleaned with a torch.

(slightly off topic) Did you already replace your '17 GG280, or just exploring the other options? I would think Jitsie or S3 comes out with something to fit the TRS pretty quickly.

I totally agree! I worked 3 Vintage Trials events, then the World Round - when they came to Rhode Island; even before I bought my first Trials bike. Found a used GasGas TXT 280 Modern Trials bike to learn the sport & since upgraded to a newer Beta Evo 300 after competing in 22 Events over the past 14 months. There is so much to be learned from this sport - just by Observing. I'm glad my local Organization "NETA" has the "Work Credit" requirement rule to help staff with Checkers at the events - which gives the riders an opportunity to watch and learn from others. My girlfriend doesn't even ride and she is hooked helping to Observe and punch the loop cards; while getting an opportunity to watch up close.

Welcome & depending on where in Canada you live, I know a few guys from Canada that ride in District 4 Trials events in Western New York.

Couldn't you provide the Beta Clutch Friction plate dimensions to Barnett and have them check for a size match?

You would actually want either the Dunlop D803 GP (much better trials tire that older stock D803) for the best price, or the Michelin X-Light (haven't been able to buy X11 in USA for a while now; though many new bikes still come with X11 Michelin tires and work very well)

Yes, the D803 GP front & rear tire seem as good to me as the Michelin X-Light tires that I used before this set.