jonnyc21

I agree with oni nou on forest riding pressure and will note that If your trail riding in sharp rocks at speed I would add a psi to each to prevent punctures.

the 315R's are great bikes, they ride nice, and are as easy to work on as any other trials bike I have done work on. There clutches can be a bit quick if they are not updated to a dimpled version or run a high quality oil like the ELF 740. They are harder to find parts for than the Beta's from what I have seen and the piston and rings are the hardest part to find from what I understand and other parts are going the same direction though not as bad yet. The older Beta's turn a little better but over all are about the same. They have a different clutch problem of often being sticky to the point of not wanting to disengage and this can require a well known Beta clutch fix of pulling apart the clutch and cleaning up the friction plates. Some older Beta's can also have corrosion in cover under the water pump that can force you to replace the cover or find a way to weld/patch things up. Both are good and if in good shape will be a lot of fun. Good luck and hope this helps.

1) How often do you damage or need to undergo repairs to the bike? (Give examples) Almost never, in 6 years I have replaced a rear brake peddle, rear fender, and a single lever. 2) How easy are these repairs to fix? Very easy to replace. 3) Do you ever hurt yourself when riding a trials bike? (Give examples) a few bumps and bruises from light falls where I land off my feet such as a tumble or on my butt. Worst being a bruised rib and a sprained wrist. 4) What, if anything, do you think could be done to improve the riders safety? Riders taking training to improve there riding. Most of my more pronounced incidents came when pushing myself before I new how to ride correctly sense taking a trials training my rider attentiveness went up and I have had less and less sever injuries sense. 5) Trials bikes have many safety features, do you think they go far enough to protect the rider? I personal believe they do. If riders want more protection than the bike offers they should get good quality riding gear and even the extra safety gear that is available. Funny but I have been hurt more often and much worse on my bicycle than I have ever been injured on my Trials motorcycle!

The lest expensive option is trying some different oil types in the gearbox, lever adjustment, lever replacement (some levers provide different angles changing force required). There is also the expensive option like the Clake One Light clutch. This allows you to adjust your lever pull to o a very customized setting for pull. Also: The more controversial options... The Montesa is a 6 spring clutch so it is possible to remove 2 like the Beta, however if your running the ELF oil I might suggest against it as it’s known to cause slipping in 4th and 5th. If you want to do that I would suggest changing oil to something like the Maxima MTL 75 as it will produce a less slip. Somthing else that could be considered is that the spring setup on the Montesa 300 RR are a bit stiffer. You could change the springs out for a set of 4 with the updated springs and caps of a 300 to get a touch more clamping force using 4 springs?

Will only make one comment about lifespan of 4T's in response to the more to ware out thought. I have a 2017 Montesa 300 RR as an upgrade to my 2007 Montesa 4RT 250. The 07 is still going strong and its over 10 years old... Sure doesn't seem to have an issue with longevity when well maintained. And as far as I can tell the 300 is stacking up to be the same. PS. Oil changes on a Montesa aren't hard but a bit of a pain as you have to pull the cover to change the oil filter.

I love my Montesa 300 RR, great bike. As indicated above, I don't really notice the extra weight when riding unless I get a bit to much out of sorts, but even then it doesn't bother me at all. I have had the chance to ride 2T bikes plenty and I would say that the 4T bikes are very different in there power and ride caricaturists so going back and forth is quite the adjustment. So if you really do decide to try a 4RT I will say you ether need to stick with it tell it works or just go with a 2T from the start. Based on your past of running Beta 2T I would think you would be happiest with a TRRS, as my best guess. I will note that I have heard a lot of people say the Beta's are a bit smother power than the TRRS's and of the two TRRS's owned in our little riding group (one 250 and one 300) I can say that the gentleman who picked up the 300 had a larger adjustment to the power from his GG from what he told me than the gal who picked up the 250 did from her GG. Hope that helps.

Yet another addition to your already growing collection... If I didn’t have the same addiction I might say you should get some help... however instead I am just jealous I can’t feed mine as often as you!

Bummer on the forks and levers... at least you got a good video of it.

I have both an 2007 and a 2017 and both use Dot 4. I am almost sure you have a swapped cap unless someone also changed out the master on you...

Not sure about the v Mar and other linkage plates but all of the 300RR's have a more further back set than standard. Most of the csp, future, and other after market foot pegs are further back, however I don't know by how much in comparison to the stock 300RR. Hopefully there will be someone else who knows the actual answer to your questions.

Interesting, I just had my daughters Beta 80 apart for some tests of the fan and see this post. It was connected just as Reggie says... yellow is connected and earth grounded on the tab, the others two went to the fan and t-stat.

Hold on a second, I don’t remember telling you about the time I did that? glad to know I am not the only one! LOL

I remember reading a post where there was a little play in the PTB and when shutting off the throttle it would go past 0 and stall out, a small drop of super glue under the stop was used to diagnose the issue. I don’t remember 100% what the final fix was , but there was some talk about a washer as a shim and a few other options talked about. not sure if that will help but good luck figuring the true root cause out.

I wouldn't expect it to be, however I never done that before so don't know for sure. I have been surprised many times in the past at what I have seen happen with miss configurations, so wouldn't put it past it being able to.

MT43’s do have a very stiff side wall. Could be a factor on coming off a rim for sure. How hard he rides it might also be a factor. Good luck.

I think in this case as it's a trials rim on the 4 Ride there is a good chance it will be fine though. Still... good to know and will keep that in mind in the future. Thanks.

Pirelli MT43 is what I would run... probably run 5-6 front and 3-4 rear. If having grip issues on a 4 Ride maybe 4-5 front and 2-4 rear on the trail. Good luck!

Hard to say for sure but if I was going to try it I would not do the wire mod to prevent running the high fuel map. I simple terms your risk when not doing the full switch is if you run to rich or to lean. I would think it would run a bit rich maybe (best guess) and be ok... but I could be very wrong.

The step of disconnecting the white/green wire on pages 5 and 6 causes the ECU to use a different map to allow for the extra fuel needed.

It has been a long time sense I checked into it so I am not sure if this is the same thing I found last time but the concept is the same and maybe you can get the correct version for your usage. https://www.g2ergo.com/store/g2-throttle-cam-system/ or maybe http://www.rollonthrottle.com/specialorder.html I also found this one, but dosn't look like it would work for most standard Domino trials bike setups. https://www.motionpro.com/c/rev2-throttle

Unless they stopped making them they did have a company that did some various throttle tube versions. I will see if I can find the information on the company and post it if I do. if so I see you have two options, one is pick up one from them, or cut down a fast tube yourself. if you take a black slow tube and compare to a white you should see that the difference is just the diameter of the tube where the cable sits when twisted. You can custom your own by filing a small amount off of a white tube yourself. Good luck!

I like the Galfer pads myself. Had a set of the Gildfren S33 (Jitsie) and would say they where good but like the galfer a little more. My 2 cents.

That's good news. Sorry don't have any Grimeca to check for you... all mine are AJP or BrakTech.

As stated above back out the adjuster all the way before bleeding or you could try removing the lever completely. If it doesn't work with the lever removed you likely have a problem with the master cylinder.

Not sure why some say it changes things but I am at least able to give a guess. Not all of them have the same lever or the same pivot point location, this could change the stroke and leverage to give it just a touch more throw at the slave side. Best guess but at least its one possible explanation.