rcgods

Disconnect the kill switch as a first point of investigation.

As far as I know the engines were the same it was just the bodywork differed

Thanks for the information Lorenzo. Much appreciated! That is exactly the rear wheel I have, everything you mention matches up correctly even down to the extra bend in the spokes. I know it is original as have owned the bike from brand new! This wheel also has the bolt on flange for the non-drum side of the hub, I have seen others where this is riveted on, which makes adding the spokes tricky as they slot in and then get pulled into the spoke seat. The rim is scrap so I am having it rebuilt with a new rim (with the flanged edge so it looks correct) it wasn't just buckled left to right it was up and down as well! If the nipples hadn't been seized so badly I could have probably pulled the wheel back into something close to round, unfortunately I had to cut the spokes from the rim. The main bonus with this rear wheel type is the steel liner, the main disadvantage is the weight! I thought I had got another matching wheel but the offset is huge and is either from a Pursang or has been spoked incorrectly.

For most bikes you could ride a used one of the previous year as they are 90% or more the same apart from the decals.

Hi, I have a M91 Sherpa which has the early style rear hub with a bolt on spoke flange on one side and a 140mm x 40mm hub on the other. Does anyone have a measurement of the offset for this type of wheel please? I have measured mine however the rim is massively buckled no wonder the tyre touches the chainguard, shocks and swingarm! Thanks

Manual for stripping 2017 onwards motors on the Beta USA Site https://www.betausa.com/sites/default/files/pdf/trialsservicemanuals/2017-2018 Evo 2 stroke engine service manual .pdf Instructions are from page 19 onwards. Only thing you will need apart from sockets etc, is a clutch holding tool maybe a gear puller.

I had a rack on my car for about 5 minutes. I put the bike on and didn't like the way it was sitting and had to be strapped. Took it back off sold it and bought a trailer. Bought a nice light single bike trailer which could stand on its end in the garage so took up very little room. It was a sod to reverse as it went where it felt like it but I felt a lot better with the bike on that than on the rack.

We made one from a knackered file and a couple of bolts. It's made in the style of the miller tool which screws into the case as a lever point and then pushes down on the springs. I much prefer the screw on retainers on later machines.

The older airbox would be from the model 159,183,191 style. These have one sidepanel as part of the airbox and the other is the airbox lid. Photo of one from a model 191 attached.

That ones £18 Dan

Wrong one spen. That is for the earlier engines. The 2015 onward use the puller like this one https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/272949317462 I would buy one as they are one of those useful tools especially if you are playing with the timing to feel how it changes the bike.

This is taken from the 2016 Evo engine rebuild manual. CLOSING THE ENGINE CASING Insert two centring bushes A and replace the gasket with a new one. Once the seal is replaced with a new one, heat the main bearing and the area around it on the right casing. Continue heating until the casing enters the motor shaft with minimal hindrance. Before starting the heating process it is recommended to grease the oil seal found on the outer side of the half-casing. ATTENTION! Be careful not to deteriorate the oil seal while heating the bearing. Press the right half-casing towards the left half, ensuring that the shafts, bolts and pins on the casings are inserted into their respective housing and the half-casing is positioned correctly. To make it easier to draw the two half-casings closer together and line them up, it is possible to use two screws, or more, on opposite sides and tighten them gradually. If the casings do not remain in their correct position, do not tighten further but loosen the screws and set the casings back into their correct position.Ensure that the two casings fit perfectly then mount and tighten the recessed hexagonal head screws (M6x50), whose tightening torque must be 10Nm. It is recommended to tighten the screws in a cross-wise pattern. Then carefully cut the excess parts of the seal in the cylinder area and intake pipe. Give a few blows to the end-parts of the motor shaft with a rubber hammer in direction of the axes so as to release any residual stress on the casings caused by the heating process.

I'm with Carlos on this one. Its easier to remove the rear wheel, shock and linkages. Gives the opportunity to grease the bearings and makes fitting the new spring easier as I clamp it in my vice and can use my compressors to make the job easier.

Not sure if you can get repair panels but it might be worth posting this on the Ford Transit Owners forum as they will know. A lot of them work miracles with stuff i would have scrapped years ago.

I use an old tyre lever that has a thin edge. I remove all bolts from the clamps and wedge the tyre lever in just to open the gap slightly. Adding WD40 to the legs as they come through the yokes helps but can make it harder to pull them through.

I definitely would as well (and did) makes moving the swingarm about for getting at bolts easier. I hold mine up with a bungee between the axle holes over the mudguard/airbox.

Just done this on my Evo. Dead easy to do. I undid the swingarm to triangle mount first as this makes dropping the dog bones down easier to remove the lower dog bone bolt.

Beta UK recommended Putoline GP10 in the gearbox when I asked them for a '17

Chewy, Try ignition on, full throttle, then pump the foot brake three times (maybe more though) that should reset it. Try it while driving along for added danger!

I use Putoline Chain Wax, well something similar. Still got a couple of tins of it from the 70s.

Bosal do not list a normal towbar for this car neither do Witter. However I don't think the Leon changed from 2009 to 2010 and Towequipe list a standard flange type towbar for the 2009 year. Give them a call and they might be able to help.

I think it was about

Normal DOT 4 brake fluid will be fine in the Sherco.

I use normal plain (non ring) chains which then get taken off and boiled in chain wax.

Doblo cargo 1.9 JTD Load Length (mm): 1680 Load Width Max (mm): 1470 Wheelbase(mm): 3200 Load Height (mm): 1305 Overall Lenth(mm): 4253 Loading Height(mm): 1231 Overall Width(mm): 1722 Rear Door Width(mm): 1245 Overall Height(mm): 1831 Rear Door Height (mm): 1680